Slammed Shaman

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- Rokieboater
- Johnmills
- Zach

Are you planning to run the sport 7.5 class? The Shaman was designed for that class however the mod class is a bit much for the hull. I am guilty of running the boat as a modified too because it is just so fast and so much fun to drive but it is running on the ragged edge when you put a Modified NR46 on it and you will see your share of DNF's in large windy heats.
I raced one in SOWEGA this past spring and when my heat came up so did the wind and even though I had speed to spare on the field a slower boat got around me because my Shaman was slipping lanes in the turns and I had to back it down so much to get it safely around the windy end of the track. The Shaman is a great stock/sport 7.5cc boat.

Rippinwater - I have never built any models with epoxy.

-Carl
 
Hi Carl:
I discovered this post just today and I´d like to have a 7.5cc tunnel Shaman. I have seen that (as you say) this hull is only for categories with sport motors, not modified.
Can I put a 7.5cc K&B?
I'd like you to put some pictures of the Shamán hull, please.
... and, of course, sign me up for a new Shaman 7.5's if when they become available.
 
Hi Carl:
I discovered this post just today and I´d like to have a 7.5cc tunnel Shaman. I have seen that (as you say) this hull is only for categories with sport motors, not modified.
Can I put a 7.5cc K&B?
I'd like you to put some pictures of the Shamán hull, please.
... and, of course, sign me up for a new Shaman 7.5's if when they become available.
 

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Impartial to overpowering these things, but man they’re fun! Even with mod power it did finish second in 40 Modified for the year in district racing and Mitch Jr. holds the 1/4 mile D outboard hydro running a modified Rossi engine.
Jamey Galliher has one setup with a RedHead that hauls the mail!
 
In my opinion the shaman it´s the only competitive glass fiber tunnel hull for a powerful .21 or even better for a geared .21 outboard. As in Europe we have 5 to 10 minutes races the hull usually should be larger to accommodate more fuel.To run well in rough waters it is better a bigger hull . Just my opinion. Next Saturday in Seville there will be one shaman
 
- Rokieboater
- Johnmills
- Zach

Are you planning to run the sport 7.5 class? The Shaman was designed for that class however the mod class is a bit much for the hull. I am guilty of running the boat as a modified too because it is just so fast and so much fun to drive but it is running on the ragged edge when you put a Modified NR46 on it and you will see your share of DNF's in large windy heats.
I raced one in SOWEGA this past spring and when my heat came up so did the wind and even though I had speed to spare on the field a slower boat got around me because my Shaman was slipping lanes in the turns and I had to back it down so much to get it safely around the windy end of the track. The Shaman is a great stock/sport 7.5cc boat.

Rippinwater - I have never built any models with epoxy.

-Carl

Carl,
I have a K&B redhead that is in need of a good home.

Thanks,
Zach
 
Hi Brandon:

Thanks for the picture...
It´s looks amazing!!!
Please, I want to ask a question: (... if you'll allow me, of course)
Why does your boat carry that kind of hydrofoils in the sponsons and Jerry Dunlap's not?
Improve the steering?
Hey Julio,
No problem at all. They are sold by Gabe Clegg (Stumpfab), the idea is that it directs more air down the center of the tunnel at speed to help keep the boat on the water and reduce its chances of lifting off the water.
No real back to back testing done to prove this, but it does seem my Shaman can be trimmed out more and carry the nose more than my brothers hull.
 
The crank of the K&B RedHead is a bit brittle as is comes from K&B and can snap easily if your engine were to start detonating or if you were to feed it a slug of water or over prop it. We would draw the hardness back slightly to help make it a little more forgiving. Hey, its still could pop but it helps them last much longer. Mitch and Brandon's Shaman's run very well but they have been racing for a long time too.

The new NR46's do not have this problem. They come tight and once you break them in just change out the rod and you are good to go for a while. The Super Sport class allows the NR46 engines to compete using the K&B can mufflers and you can get parts for them if you were to need them. It's a great class.
 
The crank of the K&B RedHead is a bit brittle as is comes from K&B and can snap easily if your engine were to start detonating or if you were to feed it a slug of water or over prop it. We would draw the hardness back slightly to help make it a little more forgiving. Hey, its still could pop but it helps them last much longer. Mitch and Brandon's Shaman's run very well but they have been racing for a long time too.

The new NR46's do not have this problem. They come tight and once you break them in just change out the rod and you are good to go for a while. The Super Sport class allows the NR46 engines to compete using the K&B can mufflers and you can get parts for them if you were to need them. It's a great class.
Why do you have to change the rod on a perfectly
Running engine once you break it in makes no sense ????
 
Hi Manuel:
In my opinion the shaman it´s the only competitive glass fiber tunnel hull for a powerful .21 or even better for a geared .21 outboard. As in Europe we have 5 to 10 minutes races the hull usually should be larger to accommodate more fuel.To run well in rough waters it is better a bigger hull . Just my opinion. Next Saturday in Seville there will be one shaman
Remember, please:
Take a lot of pictures...
I will try to go to Seville, but my state of health does not allow me ... (yet)
 
Hi Brandon:
Hey Julio,
No problem at all. They are sold by Gabe Clegg (Stumpfab), the idea is that it directs more air down the center of the tunnel at speed to help keep the boat on the water and reduce its chances of lifting off the water.
No real back to back testing done to prove this, but it does seem my Shaman can be trimmed out more and carry the nose more than my brothers hull.
Thanks for all...
Actually, I learn a lot from your knowledge...
 
Why do you have to change the rod on a perfectly
Running engine once you break it in makes no sense ????

Common practice in alot of engines, especially in the car game.
Stress on rod is extreme in break in while engine is still cold compared to warm and broken in. It is to avoid rod failure.

I use the Geraghty theory...the bottom/main bushing in the rod only touches on one spot while running...a bit of clearance is good :)
 

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