Servo Mounts

[ClayGlover]

Doods,

I would like to see how you guys mount servos in your boats. Whether you use commercially made mounts? If so, which source do you use? And if you make your own, how do you prefer to make 'em. Here are laydown-types that I made for an outrigger I'm finishing. I saw them this way originally on a Mongoose way back. They use the rubber isolators, and they're simple and work well. You build 'em, then glue the wood bases down to the bottom or sides of the radio box.

I'm particularly looking for ideas on standup-type mounts for a mono's radio box that will not work laydown style that I'm also finishing. But any ideas, designs, pics... standup, laydown, sideways, crooked, whatever you've got.... thanks B)

The one on the right is a micro servo to give an idea of size

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

Here's a photo of a radio box I'm building for a deep vee 21. Real simple servo tray made from 1/8 aircraft ply.

JD

 

[ClayGlover]

Great! Keep 'em coming.

2 plywood rails for all three servos looks good. My problem is I have 2 different sizes. 1 standard for rudder, and 2 mini's for throttle and mixture. It also is a .21 mono. The standard is to tall to fit without rubbing the lid, so it must lay down. There's not enough room to lay down all 3 in mine, so the 2 mini's must stand up.

 

[Terry Keeley]

Here's the box in my 20 mono. I use 1/8" aluminum angle for the rudder servo mount on all my boats, cut, mill, file the inside out to fit a standard servo, attach it with 2 4-40 srcews into a 1/8th ply base with blind nuts. I like maple for the other two.

 

[ClayGlover]

Perfect. Just what I was looking for. What is the bow-side of the micro servo's screwed to? Also, do you glue in the aluminum angle, or screw the angle down through the bottom of the box?

OK, after thinking about it, you would have to screw them down, and I see the screws in your picture. Otherwise how would you get the servos back out, right?

Keep 'em coming

 

[Joe_Knesek]

he is a picture of my radio box on my 20 Speedmaster. 3M trim tape. Plenty strong and nothing lighter. If you think it will come loose, you're mistaken. It takes much more effort to break the bond of this tape than it does to break the servo loose from the 4 mounting screws.

 

[Terry Keeley]

Perfect.  Just what I was looking for.    What is the bow-side of the micro servo's screwed to?  Also, do you glue in the aluminum angle, or screw the angle down through the bottom of the box?OK, after thinking about it, you would have to screw them down, and I see the screws in your picture.  Otherwise how would you get the servos back out, right?

Keep 'em coming 

The bow side is screwed to small maple blocks glued to the inside of the box, those #2 Dubro sheet metal screws work well. The aluminum angle mount screws into blind nuts in the 1/8th ply base.

I really like "Hanger 9" aluminum arms for all my rudder servos and use 1/8 ss welding rod threaded 6-32 for the linkage.

 

[nitrotoys]

I got the aeromarine stainless servo mounts from aeromarine.

they were like 5 bucks, come for standard, micro and 1/4 scale, they can be mounted laying down and standing up, predrilled holes.

they are nice.

Tom

 

[[email protected]]

Here's how my B-hydro is rigged up. In the rigger it self are 4 blocks that are glued down. Each block s tapped for screws. Then, a seperate tray of wood is used to hold each servo individually. It is then dropped into the blocks of the rigger and secured. Here's a picture.

 

[warlokboats]

clay

ask preston to see his in his 21 warlok. i think mine were only .2 oz. (for both throttle and 3rd channel) when cut and fitted. very strong also.

jon

 

[ClayGlover]

That sounds light Jon. Don't know what the ones above weigh, but they are a heck of a lot smaller than they look in the picture. The screws in the pic are tiny #2 hex head stainless sheet metal screws from RTL Fasteners. I use a 5/64" ball hex wrench on them. Very nice and easy to work with, and you can drive from off angles in tight places. No rust, screwdrivers slipping off, or screwhead stripping to worry about.

 

[warlokboats]

clay

they mount and look like the ones in a crapshooter. they mount on the side walls and there is only about 3/8 in. longer than the servo. i also only use a #2 screw.

jon

 

[ClayGlover]

3/8" longer? How wide? Hmmm, that sounds tight and light. Do you use covers like mine, or screw through the mounting tabs on the servos, or another way? I've not seen a crapshooter's servo mounts before, they are a rare commodity down here. Maybe someone will post a pic, I'd like to see them....

 

[ClayGlover]

and use 1/8 ss welding rod threaded 6-32 for the linkage. 

OK, that is something I've been wondering for quite a while. How do you thread the welding (or music wire, etc.) rod ends?

Ok, sounds like a simple answer, a 6-32 die right? I'm thinking of the pushrods that are premade. The threads are not cut out with a die, but somehow put on the outside of the rod? I.E.- the threaded area is larger in diameter due to the added threads than the unthreaded solid part of the rod? Or am I way off there?

Anyhow, overthinking a simple thing I guess, just die-cut a larger diameter wire! Duh! LOL

I have a 1/8" stainless rod on my 45 outrigger rudder made by the guy I got it from. That is some serious strength there, and looks good too.

 

[Terry Keeley]

and use 1/8 ss welding rod threaded 6-32 for the linkage. 

OK, that is something I've been wondering for quite a while. How do you thread the welding (or music wire, etc.) rod ends?

Ok, sounds like a simple answer, a 6-32 die right? I'm thinking of the pushrods that are premade. The threads are not cut out with a die, but somehow put on the outside of the rod? I.E.- the threaded area is larger in diameter due to the added threads than the unthreaded solid part of the rod? Or am I way off there?

Anyhow, overthinking a simple thing I guess, just die-cut a larger diameter wire! Duh! LOL

I have a 1/8" stainless rod on my 45 outrigger rudder made by the guy I got it from. That is some serious strength there, and looks good too.

Yes, I use a 6-32 die but spread apart as much as possible to cut a "shallow" thread to maintain strength. I also like the Rocket City linkages and open them from 4-40 to 6-32 with a tap.

The threads you're talking about may be rolled on instead of cut with a die, the metal is displaced instead of cut so the O/D gets bigger.

 

[Ron Jefferson]

Joe: Where are you getting that 6.0 volt battery pack from?

Ron

 

[Joe_Knesek]

Joe: Where are you getting that 6.0 volt battery pack from?
Ron

They are from Batteries America. They are AAA NiMh. The web site is www.batteriesamerica.com