Seaducer

[EatMyShortsRacing]

I thought that the raising of the strut also gave you a little more negative angle since the shaft tube is locked into the hull in the middle of the tube.  Therefore the tube is pivoting in relation to the bottom of the hull so raising the strut changes the strut angle.
If you run lead teflon bearings and only have the shaft tube in 1/4" or so then you can correct a little to maintain the strut angle and raise or lower the prop a little.

EMS Racing  So my SD3 isnt finished yet.....

The stuffing tube gives enough to compensate for the raising/lowering.

FDJ,

Are you keeping the strut angle the same as you make changes?

Preston,

I am not so sure about that. The way I have seen people assemble them is with the stuffing tube going all the way through the strut and a second piece of Brass tubing used as the bearing between the stuffing tube and the shaft. Therefore the strut angle really is affected by raising and lowering.

I have the Lead Teflon bearings in my strut and the tube only goes about 1/4" into the strut so in my case you would be right.

EMS Racing 1000 ways to skin a cat

 

[darby96]

My name is Dave Bestpitch NAMBA98 Jerry's west coast rep for Seaducer

I can help with my experience (I hope)

the strut should be about 1/16 up from the bottom the angle is set to make the boat tight or loose

I think where the problem comes is the perception of the boat running too wet

the boat show run wet from the stern to about 1 inch forward of the deck rear when running in calm water guaranteed it will loosen up when in a heat with other boats

you will find that the boat will be more dependable and drive easier with this setup

this is all predicated on the fact that you put the boat together exactly as the instructions say and use the suggested prop

Dave

 

[FDJ]

Guys,

An update on progress with the Seaducer 45.

Did more testing at the weekend and tried the following;

1) replaced 3 blade (X450x3) with X452x2 - no improvement.

2) replaced HS 605 MG with HS 645 MG (both running on 6 volts) - no improvement.

3) replaced 1100 mAh Ni-Mh battery with Ni Cd pack - no improvement.

4) varied strut height and angle (up and down) no improvement.

5) varied rudder length

Whilst I believe that the boat is runnig too wet (probably 75% of the boat's length in the water at around 50mph) this is not the major concern. As Dave Bespitch said it will probably loosen up when run in heats with other boats but at this stage the boat is so unpredictable (ie when it is going to hook badly)that I am not prepared to risk it or other boats by racing it.

When people have put forward the idea of using a more powerful steering servo in this forum did those people mean digital servos or simply a higher spec analog unit ? What servos are being used by people that are successfully runnig this boat?

 

[darby96]

the 645 is enough servo to do the job.

what hardware do you have jerry's or speedmaster's

next using a 12" straightedge with the greater length under the boat what is the depth of the strut (1/16) i hope

note when adjusting the angle the lowest part of the strut (hopefully the front) should still be about 1/16

next what is the angle from the front of the strut to the rear

hooking can be caused by too much nose in the water, the rudder on an angle, also oversteering into the corner the rudder only needs to move about 1/2" from the rear in both directions

we need to get the boat wet only to about 2" forward of the engine

next where are you located <_<

dave

 

[Dale0]

My buddy had the same problem until he dialed out most of the steering. Runs like a champ now.

 

[Jay Stone]

If you use the HITEC 645, you need to put the clevis on the arm hole closest to the center spline of the servo. That way, when you dial the dual rate out of the radio, the servo still moves a decent amount to move rudder from point a to b.

If you put the clevis on the arm hole way far out and turn your dual rate down your servo will hardly move, sometimes a little more than others. This will cause this boat to hook.

The clevis on the rudder can be pretty much middle arm or far out on arm.

Turning the dual rate way down is the key like Dale says, but if you are using a HITEC 645 trust me on the servo arm/clevis placement.

 

[darby96]

I had forgot to mention that a lot of the over steer in a seaducer is by the operator and setup errors. the seaducer is a balance boat and with the setup of the rudder as the instructions say the boat will be very competitive...with a seaducer wet is good!

dave bestpitch B)

namba 98

 

[Will Gallagher]

Jay is correct, the push rod (4/40) needs to be on the inside hole of the servo arm. This will provide the most amount of torque. This makes a big difference in any Steering servo set up. I originally had a HS645 installed in my SD3 45, but it just does not seem to have enough holding power. Sure it has (133.31 oz/in at 6.0V), but I question how that is measured, and how long will it deliver the rated amount of torque.

I switched to Futaba 9350 digital servo and the bow steering is now gone.

Will

 

[Preston_Hall]

I thought that the raising of the strut also gave you a little more negative angle since the shaft tube is locked into the hull in the middle of the tube.  Therefore the tube is pivoting in relation to the bottom of the hull so raising the strut changes the strut angle.
If you run lead teflon bearings and only have the shaft tube in 1/4" or so then you can correct a little to maintain the strut angle and raise or lower the prop a little.

EMS Racing  So my SD3 isnt finished yet.....

The stuffing tube gives enough to compensate for the raising/lowering.

FDJ,

Are you keeping the strut angle the same as you make changes?

Preston,

I am not so sure about that. The way I have seen people assemble them is with the stuffing tube going all the way through the strut and a second piece of Brass tubing used as the bearing between the stuffing tube and the shaft. Therefore the strut angle really is affected by raising and lowering.

I have the Lead Teflon bearings in my strut and the tube only goes about 1/4" into the strut so in my case you would be right.

EMS Racing 1000 ways to skin a cat

Craig,

I'll relieve your doubt. I have owned two Seaducers with Jerry's harware installation and the strut is adjustable up and down without affecting the angle. I also watched Jerry do the same with the 88mph F Mono at record trials.

If it were not adjustable, then Seaducer wouldn't allow for adjustment.

 

[Ken Hildreth]

I am sorry that I didnt mention the hole position on the servo when I spoke, what Jay said is 100 percent correct. and really the rudder shouldnt have much throw at all, more like a hydro than a mono. Mine is set at 60 percent even with it all the way in the hole closest to the spline. Hope all this helps you handling problem. I know all the guys in my club love their 40 seaducers even more than the old one. Ken

 

[EatMyShortsRacing]

Preston,

Are you runnng the stuffing tube all the way throught the strut though???

EMS Racing

 

[Preston_Hall]

Preston,
Are you runnng the stuffing tube all the way throught the strut though???

EMS Racing

Yes.

 

[Ron Jefferson]

I have a question but not specific to the SD3 Seaducer. What effect does tipping the rudder in or out have on the attitude of a mono in the turns? Will tipping the bottom end in towards the transom cause the front of the boat to lift or lower? I hope I've made the question clear.

Ron

 

[darby96]

on any boat tilting the bottom of the rudder foward causes the nose of the boat to come down and the back of the boat up, tilting back causes the opposite this is good in a hydro if you want to relieve the prop in the turns

dave B)

 

[Dale0]

Dave,

Are you sure you dont have that backwards?

Dale

 

[Jay Stone]

I'd say I'd have to agree with Senor Bestpitch's explanation on the rudder. I know when I was running the 42" SD2 and SD3 boats with a PICCO 80, if I didn't have my rudder tucked pretty hard, they wouldn't turn as well...

Couple races I remember fighting some ill handling steering when I realized that the rudder wasn't tucked...

 

[Dale0]

Ok but how can a rudder being back lower the tail? How is it going to suck it down? IMHO rudder being back is like down elevator? Being forward would have oppisite effect.

BTW Jay you gonna have an X mono in Andrews? h34r:

 

[Jay Stone]

I think of it this way.. The rudder tucked under puts more drag essentially. Pulling it back is less drag. That it the way I always have seen it.

Yeah I will have an X mono with me... Probably still run the old one.. Hope to have the new boat ready for the Finals..

 

[DaveMarles]

I think Dale O has it right, tilting the bottom of the rudder forward lifts the nose of a mono in the turns by pulling the transom down. Tilting the bottom of the rudder back pushes the nose down in turns by lifting the transom. That is unless a seaducer uses different physics to other monos. :huh:

 

[FDJ]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all of your input on this topic. I have been able to contact Jerry C and with his help the boat now appears to drive quite well. After sending photos to JC he suggested that I move the rudder pushrod to the inside hole on the servo arm (as many of you did), remove any movement in the radio box (ie sliding in the hull - there was none) and ensure that there was very little movement of the servo within the servo mount (as there was). I have probably "overkilled" the servo power issue as I have fitted a HS5945 digital servo (13 Kg cm @ 6 volts) but after testing today the hooking problem appears to have been eradicated.

I am racing at the South Australian stae titles next weekend and hopefully this will prove that all is OK. Again, thanks.