Seaducer

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

FDJ

Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2004
Messages
6
Hi Guys,

Recently built a new Seaducer 45 (SD3). All dimensions exactly as per instructions and running on X450x3 blade prop.

Boats runs very wet and "hooks" badly both left and right. Have tried shortening rudder by 1" but only made it worse. Any ideas?
 
FDJ,

Are you using seaducer hardware on it or a different brand?

Tim.
 
Try using a two blade prop. That is what is suggested in the instructions. Who knows, it might solve your problem :huh: ;)
 
If the strut is at the bottom of the vee start coming up 1/16" at a time to see if you can loosen it up.

Questions:

Where is the water coming off the hull when you are running down the straight?

If you have cut 1 inch off the rudder specs that would put your rudder bottom just below the water pickup???

Is this the Seaducer hardware?

Tony J
 
my boat strut measures 1/4 inch from the bottom to the shaft tube.

Be sure to use a strong steering servo, a weak servo or low battery voltage will cause the boat to hook or not come out of the turn well.

PHIL
 
If the strut is at the bottom of the vee start coming up 1/16" at a time to see if you can loosen it up.
Not challenging your reply. Merely educating myself on effects of strut height. I always thought that if you raise the strut on a mono (deep-vee included), it would run wet. If you lower the strut it would run loose. Am I correct?

From my experience, a surface drive set up runs wetter than a sub-surface drive.

Since a surface drive does not allow for much strut height adjestment, I would tend to think strut angle would have a bigger effect on trim.

On a tunnel, it is the opposite. The higher you rasie the OB, the looser the tunnel runs.

Just my two cents...and I would like to hear your theories..

Regards,

kez
 
Kez, based on the statement you have NOT raised the strut on your Sd yet? Phil and others please let Kez experience a Sd in full glory!

Kez raise the strut as hi as you can get it. And then let us know what your findings are. :eek:
 
Maybe someone can get some input from Jerry Crowther as I have been led to believe that the strut should be as low as possible. However I am talking about the 60/80 Mono.
 
Raising the strut lets your motor unload is your motor screaming or just slow?A slow boat will plow water and make it hard to turn .
 
This boat has won our state season championship(in South Australia)two years running. It is not a slow boat and has it's strut set as low as it can go.
 
Thanks Gents/Ladies,

In response to your questions I purchased the boat from Jerry C complete with hardware at the NAMBA nats. I have attempted to contacted him with these problems but he does not return from holidays until 18 Sept.

I have raised the strut in steps but this appears to make the boat run wetter and the handling worse. I have not tried an X450x2 blade but my instructions recommend an X450x3 blade or an X452x2 blade. I will give the 2 blade option a try.

For more information I am using A Hitech 605 BB MG servo with a 1100 mah Ni-Mh battery pack. I thought that this servo battery combination would provide adequate power as I have used it on reasonably quick X-monos previously.
 
Sounds like you are doing the right thing. Maybe just wait until JC gets back :D :D .
 
PDU said:
This boat has won our state season championship(in South Australia)two years running. It is not a slow boat and has it's strut set as low as it can go.
:)

Pity I couldnt come over this year to give you a run....

Just finishing a SD3 with a MAC 45... hope to run it on the weekend...

Will be at the Mulwala race though :)
 
With a Seaducer the CG is located farther forward than most other Monohulls. Therefore, having strut adjustment opposite effect. Raise the strut to lower the rear end and raise the nose as the boat pivots on the CG (loose boat). Lower the strut to raise the rear end out of the water and lower the nose as the boat pivots on the CG (tight boat).
 
The idea behind my statement was for him to test the information that he has and draw his own conclusions. We ALL can say up or down, but until he goes to the lake and try's it is all speculation. Once HE has tried it them it become FACT to him. There are thing at work with a SD that you have to find out on your own while testing at the lake. I, and others can sit here for the rest of the year with OUR information. And as good as it may seem it means NOTHING until tested.

SO, rasie the strut as hi as you can get it in the hole and them, lets eveyone know your findings.

To the knowledgeable people, Does he have the motor that Jerry used. The pipe. the porp or the fuel. All of these things will contrubite to the boats runnig.

Is the boat going to do the same thing with Kez that it did with Jerry?

He now has to make it Kez's boat not Jerry's. Rasie the strut, watch and learn.
 
I thought that the raising of the strut also gave you a little more negative angle since the shaft tube is locked into the hull in the middle of the tube. Therefore the tube is pivoting in relation to the bottom of the hull so raising the strut changes the strut angle.

If you run lead teflon bearings and only have the shaft tube in 1/4" or so then you can correct a little to maintain the strut angle and raise or lower the prop a little.

EMS Racing So my SD3 isnt finished yet.....
 
BigChuck said:
SO, rasie the strut as hi as you can get it in the hole and them, lets eveyone know your findings.

To the knowledgeable people, Does he have the motor that Jerry used. The pipe. the porp or the fuel. All of these things will contrubite to the boats runnig.

Is the boat going to do the same thing with Kez that it did with Jerry?

He now has to make it Kez's boat not Jerry's. Rasie the strut, watch and learn.
Umm I think he bought the boat and hardware kit from Jerry from the sounds of it. Not a set up running boat. :)

Wish I could put one together as fast as he does but then again he has made so many he could do it blindfolded!!!!

Has anyone tried a X452/3 back cut? (MAC 45) Went through my (100 or so) props and there was just about everything except an x450/3....
 
I would still go back to what phil said, We have three of these boats, well 4, if you count phils, and 3 out of 4 had this hook problem until they went to a stronger servo. Phils boat included. after this was changed, the boat did not hook anymore. and as for the strut, I bleive that phils and Mikes boat both have the strut 1/8 of an inch from the bottom of the boat. they are running mac motors which like to rev, the other two in the club have different motors and are running the strut more per the instructions. but all four boats are pretty awsome on the race course. Ken
 
EatMyShortsRacing said:
I thought that the raising of the strut also gave you a little more negative angle since the shaft tube is locked into the hull in the middle of the tube. Therefore the tube is pivoting in relation to the bottom of the hull so raising the strut changes the strut angle.
If you run lead teflon bearings and only have the shaft tube in 1/4" or so then you can correct a little to maintain the strut angle and raise or lower the prop a little.

EMS Racing So my SD3 isnt finished yet.....
The stuffing tube gives enough to compensate for the raising/lowering.

FDJ,

Are you keeping the strut angle the same as you make changes?
 
Back
Top