SEADUCER MONO

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gil sonsino

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 31, 2004
Messages
1,764
This tread has already been discussed in different ways but as I'm working on a SD3 Gas of a friend of mine now and would like to hear from the mono guru's what do you think of the inttentional hook in the botton.I do know why it is part of this concept but ...... this boat has been a pain in the neck.

Time ago I removed this hook in another gas ducer and the results were very good..this boat is still running strong with a Qd 25 but once the owner of this new one don't want hull mods I wonder why the set up is sooooo critical to have the boat on plane.

We have spent lot of hours playing with an infinity of set ups,pipes,props and the boat just hit 55mph with a Bucth mod motor.The old modified boat(hook removed) runs consistently in mid 60's with the motor placed back 2 " and has potencial to go even fast. In the other forum there is the same topic and there are lot of different opinions about this subject but I ended up with the same opinion of Marty Davis that used to modify his .20 Ducer's in this area.At least it worked for me but I'm sure Jerry Crowler wouldn't waste his time running a bad design boat plus winning all those races.I have no doubts that ducer's are proven winning models.

This boat came from Florida ready to run,same building,same set up and same props recommend by Jerry so what do you think could be the problem.We only have the boat on plane using a small propeller(X472 barr cupped and cup 4.3) so speed is greatly affected.It seems the Cg is too much forward that makes the boat very glued even with positive strut angle.Also went to www.modelgasboats.com to read more about an issue about the SD3 gas and I couldn't figured out nothing wrong with our boat.

Maybe some of you can trade your Ducer's set up experiences here to save more frustrating tests.

Thanks

Gill
 
We had a 47" Gas Ducer for a while. Same thing... Boat ran very poorly on smooth water by itself. It stayed stuck to the water, bow steered, rocked back and forth, etc... If you loosened it up enough to run well by itself it would DUNK in heat race water. We ended up getting rid of it before we totally dialed it in. I know they do run well when you finally get them right. Jerry's flat out flies and Norman Morton has on in Atlanta that is a contender. BIG CHUCK here on IW has one. It always looks like it is going to blow off, but it never does. he may be able to chime in w/ some tips.

Have you run it in rough heat race type water set up to Jerry's specs?

Lamar
 
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Trying to set a Seaducer in anything but rough water is kind of useless. It may be tight now but in heat racing it will gain lots of speed.

Removing the hook and moving the motor back 2" in the other boat seems like that would be too loose in race conditions.
 
here is my .02

When i build a Seaducer i usally mount the engine and tanks a little back from Jerry's plans. We race at 3000' so its tough to get the Seaducers to loosen up even in race water. Then if i need to add some lead to the nose its real easy. Much easier to add weight to the nose at the pond then to take it away.
 
i love my seaducers , and dont they still have the record ???

DONT add lead , or bog to the hull.....get the cg right for your power output..

its all in the setup.

jason
 
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Jerry supplies plans with the boats for a reason. build the boat to the plans.

Make adjustments 1/32 of an inch at the time.

If you have to make more than 4 adjustments you didn't build it by the plans.

Push the hull when racing, ride in the others guys wake, the boat will work.

How often is the water calm during a six boat heat?

I beleive.

mike
 
This thread is of great interest to me as I have the very same problem with .20 Seaducer that has been built by Jerry, The boat just won't loosen up and it bearly gets over 64 MPH
 
Jerry supplies plans with the boats for a reason. build the boat to the plans.

Make adjustments 1/32 of an inch at the time.

If you have to make more than 4 adjustments you didn't build it by the plans.

Push the hull when racing, ride in the others guys wake, the boat will work.

How often is the water calm during a six boat heat?

I beleive.

mike
Words of wisdom from Mike !!!
 
Just to add to the above, to loosen the boat up raise the strut, to tighten up lower the strut. If built to Jerry's specs (not hard to do) in race water you'll be able to focus more on race strategy than on trying to keep the boat on the water.
 
I have a SD3 45 and it was running wet. I had the strut all the way up. and was still the same. Dick Jones was watching it run and told me to notch the stuffing tube hole out. I took it about 1/4 to 3/8 up raised the strut up even more. what a difference and it handles the rough water great.
 
This thread is of great interest to me as I have the very same problem with .20 Seaducer that has been built by Jerry, The boat just won't loosen up and it bearly gets over 64 MPH


Poor, Poor, Frank!!!!!

Thats really a poor perfoming hull.

pssssssssst,

Wanna sell it?!?!?!!?!?!
 
Frank When you start raising the strut. Only very small amounts. The boat will start to chime walk ever so slightly. As you go up so will the chime walk. Thus raise in small amounts. And keep the strut Dead Level.
 
This thread is of great interest to me as I have the very same problem with .20 Seaducer that has been built by Jerry, The boat just won't loosen up and it bearly gets over 64 MPH
I wanna see that boat with a big slot where the stuffing tube comes out, bring it to Flint in May...

:)
 
Great discussion but I guess a nitro ducer is much easier to be fixed than a gas boat.

As said all our tests are very progressive (step by step),building follows suplied plans but seems that we have some boats that don't work even that!.

Any other suggestions...before be back to my riggers...?

:lol:

Thanks for your interest.

Gill
 
Gil in some cases there could be problems in the hull. But you will have to find that. If you measure againist another 47 gas hull they should be simaliar in the hook in the hull. If they are that far apart them you will need to talk with Jerry. I have a 47 gas Sd offshore with a Qd in it and the hot pipe, as well as monos and Hydros. I do not have the problem that you have described. But It did take a while to get the boat to were I

like it. Pushing water and glued. In a 7 boat heat it is a safe, fast ride.
 
This thread is of great interest to me as I have the very same problem with .20 Seaducer that has been built by Jerry, The boat just won't loosen up and it bearly gets over 64 MPH
I wanna see that boat with a big slot where the stuffing tube comes out, bring it to Flint in May...

:)
I WANT TO SEE THAT 64 MPH 20 MONO!
Kentley porter and myself put together a 20 mono several years ago and got it to 77 mph. We got the record at about 65 or so on record trial day, but couldn't get the 77 mph back. Problem......Originally the wood scratch built boat was perfectly straight on the bottom. It had developed a very slight hook over the month between original testing and record trials day. Point is......I have always found a straight bottom to be faster than one with a hook. Just makes common sense to me. Hook is most likely wood or fiberglass pulling over a period of time, or when pulling out of a mold. I have never EVER seen it as a good thing. how do you control hook to make a boat run correctly when the hook is constantly in a state of flux due to curring out, heat, cold, and humidity. You can't. That is just my opinion.
 
One thing I learned about MY Seaducer (over the corse of one year since I got it) is that boat is very easy to run and is very well behaving boat up to about 48-49 MPH get it in mid 50 and boat is hard to set up to be consistent, once you get to 60 + MPH boat is rather unpredictable. This boat running wet and flat on the right side got to mid 60, so my guess is with better setup boat could get to 70+ which is pretty darn fast for 5 3/4 lb production boat. I'm not trying to put anyone down but reality is that most people will rarely get to 50 + which is plenty fast to win even the biggest races. I also would agree with John Finch that flat bottom would be faster, having said that I must say that I would pick Seaducer over just about any other boat for obvious reasons; no trim tabs, no turn fins and because they are boats capable of winning any race.
 
Gil,

My son & I each have one, mine drives fine & runs in the 60's with an old QD, his ran in the low fifties & stuck to the water, hooked in the turns badly as well. We raised the strut with some success, he started glassing the hook in, its now to the point where he will need tabs to run it in a race, but it runs a bit over 60 with a Zenoah so far. I think some of them have too much hook in the hull to start with due to the molding processes, temp humidity etc. there are a few that run spectacular then there are many that dont!! We use pitched up 1475 props for those speeds, the Zenoah requires more pitch than the QD. The struts are about 1/4" above the bottom of the hull to the bottom of the strut. They seem to do better if a lot of rudder throw is not used, mine turns in about a 20' radius (estimated).. his cg is back 1/2" more than mine, and that may have to be moved foreward again.

Most of them that are sold on Ebay are the ones that they cant get dialed in.........

Both of the boats dunk occasionally and I think its because theres about 1/2" too much droop in the nose of the hull. This really only happens in rougher water or crossing a wake...

my opinnions and everyone has a few ha!!

mike
 

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