Run in stand/dyno build.

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Terry
Did you upgrade to the pro vesion of the software?

Yup, I ran the basic version a bit and wanted some features of the Pro, torque in oz-in was one. I also added the thermocoupler amp http://www.performancetrends.com/affordable_thermocouple_amp.htm to run K thermocouplers for the CHT and EGT, EGT is showing me some very interesting stuff with nitro. These are things that can be added later tho once you get the thing up and running.

Any idea yet how your gonna run cooling?
 
Have not worked the cooling out yet. Would like to keep it simple.
I am currently thinking egt, cht, 2 rpm inputs, Weather sensors, and the pro software. I need to call performance trends.
 
My CPU cooling system is working great, a little pricy tho.

Kevin and Zak are great, very helpful. I have a good source for thermocouples I got from Mike Rappold when yur ready...
 
Terry asked me for an update, so here it is. I am almost ready to start making noise. The Datamite arrived last week. I am still waiting on the thermocouples for the exhaust temp. 4 week lead time currently. When I get back from the NAMBA Nats, I will get up and running. At the moment all of my pipes are mounted to boats ready to head south. Been getting familiar with the software and mounting sensors. Im am going to change the clutch, but decided to run the system as is and see if anything else needs to be reworked. I will also clean things up and get rid of some of the extra aluminum at that time. I have spun it up with my router a couple of times to test the brake and freewheel a bit.
 

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What is that brake disk from ?
Think it's safe to spin it up that high ?

Everything else looks pretty solid, but I would be concerned with spinning that disk high above its safe rpm range and have it frag into a bazillion pieces.. Are you thinking of utilizing a scattershield at all ??
 
Looks great, thanks for posting.

Is that some sort of "freewheel" or ratchet between the rubber coupler and the wheel?

Who's rubber coupling is that? Or did you make it?

How big is the wheel?
 
The brake disc is from a mountain bike. I have spun it by its self 29k in my router several times. The assembly has been to 20k powered by the router. At this point, I am cautiously optimystic about it. The whole set up will need to be proven out over several tests slowly ramping up the rpm. The brake is adjusted so that it will reduce the speed, but in a bad situation can't be accidentally over applied. I will have a shield. Have not worked that out yet.
The Freewheel is a Shimano BMX part sandwiched in there. The aluminum housing pressed over the lovejoy was the simplest solution that I could come up with. That half of the coupling was machined for a bearing to support it. I got the coupling from Mcmaster Carr.
The wheel started out 6x3. It ended up a bit under that after truing.
 
Impressive, I'm very interested how that that freewheel works out.

How was the vibration at 20K? Why change the clutch?

ps: sorry for the repeat Q's, I looked back at you other posts and saw you already covered that stuff.
 
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It was very smooth running on the router.
The clutch is a pain to remove. With the freewheel I dont think the square key is needed for a fuse. The other clutch that I have would be quicker to change engines and would eliminate two collets and the square key. The drum would be mounted direct to the second shaft and the shoe assembley on the crankshaft.
 
You did all that metal more than proud. You will have a better setup than we had. I may see if I have any other bits and pieces you could use. I might have a thermocoulpe somewhere.

Lohring Miller
 
Okay got my first runs in and got usable data! The free wheel welded solid after 3 runs. Have not pulled it apart yet, but it is no longer a freewheel. The bike brake works great and does not get hot at all. I had a new stock Zen mounted up, I I tested three pipes and the data is very interesting. The rabbit hole just got really deep. I was only testing to 13500 today making sure things are good. 2 of the pipes that I tested were still making power when I clicked it off. One was done at 12700. When I am fully comfortable with my results, I will share all data.
 
Okay got my first runs in and got usable data! The free wheel welded solid after 3 runs. Have not pulled it apart yet, but it is no longer a freewheel. The bike brake works great and does not get hot at all. I had a new stock Zen mounted up, I I tested three pipes and the data is very interesting. The rabbit hole just got really deep. I was only testing to 13500 today making sure things are good. 2 of the pipes that I tested were still making power when I clicked it off. One was done at 12700. When I am fully comfortable with my results, I will share all data.

Getting to the point of just running the thing is a major accomplishment, congratulations!

Strange the freewheel locked up, I would never have guessed that. Maybe the friction of the over-running fingers caused too much heat?

Looking forward to seeing some results!

ps: would love to see some more photos of your final setup...
 
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Right now it looks just like the pictures above with the addition of a pipe. I am still waiting on egt thermocouples. I just used a garden hose for cooling today. I will be adding a closed system for testing during the winter. It will be a circulating pump, holding tank (5 gallon bucket), and transmission cooler for a radiator with a fan.
 
Terry, After looking things over, The bike brake works very well, but I went through 1/3 of the brake pads today. Can you PM me details of your magnetic brake please. Or post here, more may be interested.
 
I've posted this before, but below are pictures of an electromagnetic brake I made from computer hard drive disks and magnets. It's yours to try as a brake for your dyno

Lohring miller
PS I would be careful about posting bad results on named pipes. We were careful about openly sharing bad results, esecially when we were asked to test things furnished by others.
 

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What are the dimensions of your disc? From the pic. I am guessing 100mm diameter and maybe 6mm thick? how much air gap did you use?

Yup, 4" x 1/4" thick, the magnets are 1/16" from the disk when braking.

Be sure it's well clear in the resting position and don't use it if a motor seizes, whenever that's happened to me the coupler on the motor unscrewed and shoved everything forward.

Maybe Lohring's unit would work?

ps: post #470 is those thermocouples From Mike Rappold, plus his mounting ideas.
 
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Lohring
It is not my plan to report bad or good. Just data. My limited testing yesterday seemed to show a certain pipe under performing, however we know that in competition with a properly matched combination, it works very well.
I plan to report data and let people make their own determination if things make sense with their combination. The three pipes that I tested yesterday ware all competetive, but would require different props to take advantage of the power curves. When I get the dyno dialed in and am comfortable with the data, I do plan on sharing all of it. You and Mike inspired me going down this path. What you guys shared helped alot of people including me. I do understand what you are saying, but I am comfortable sharing data and letting people decide on their own what is good and what is bad. I watch a lot of Richard Holdner's videos, He is very good at doing what I want to do. Test components and publish the data. Pipes are just a small piece of what I want to test. I have a project in mind that I think will help inspire people to build their own engines. Thus continuing your work.
Thanks Terry. I ordered the magnets this morning and will get to work on the disc this afternoon. I will also take the freewheel apart and see what failed. My gut tells me the bearing welded. I ordered thermocouples 3 weeks ago, but it is a 4-5 week wait. I did a little messing around with needle settings yesterday. I think once a bit of data is collected dialing in the carb will be easy. Lohring also offered his Lambda sensor for the project.
 
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