- Joined
- Apr 1, 2002
- Messages
- 4,108
IW members racing model boats back in the late 60s and 70s will probably remember the DragN' Fli hydroplane series manufactured by Dumas Boats. The DragN' Fli hydroplanes were designed by Frank Ward. The design was influenced by Frank's experiences racing full size "Kneeler" hydroplanes in the late 50s and early 60s.
Frank and his wife, Nancy, recently relocated from the Seattle area to Ocean Shores, Washington. During a recent trip to Ocean Shores, my wife Maren and I dropped by to see Frank and Nancy. While Maren and Nancy visited in their family room, Frank and I were in his garage/model boat shop. I happened to spot an old, as in 50 years old, DragN' Fli 40 on a bottom shelf. Frank stated that boat was the original prototype for what would become the Dumas DragN' Fli 40.
I mentioned to Frank that the old 40 powered hydroplane could be converted to a 20 powered outboard hydroplane. Frank's response was, "Have at it" and along with the boat provided an O.S. 20 Outboard and a heavy duty servo for steering.
The solid brass prop shaft stuffing tube was removed using a metal cut off wheel. The solid aluminum motor mount plate remained in the boat since it didn't interfere with anything. Well, that and I couldn't loosen the nuts to remove the plate. Using 1/32" plywood, I extended the front cowling to make the boat appear like a full size "Kneeler." I made a typical outboard tunnel radio box and solid rod linkages for steering. Sullivan Brand cable provides throttle control. Rear ride pads were added to assist in lifting the transom. The O.S. 20 OB was secured to the transom using 6-32 blind nuts and cap head screws. The blind nuts for the turn fit were utilized to attach the turn fin mounting bracket and turn fin. A driver/helmet were made from foam, coated with West Systems, and painted. The boat was repainted in some areas.
I've run the boat several times. During the first outing, it was obvious the boat was running with a positive attitude. So positive that I blew the boat off the water. However, the good news was the radio box was water tight. I lowered the C/L of the prop so it was even with the bottom of the sponsons for the next time to the lake.
The result was a much better ride attitude. Jeez, this is almost as much text as I used to write for model boating magazines.
Frank and his wife, Nancy, recently relocated from the Seattle area to Ocean Shores, Washington. During a recent trip to Ocean Shores, my wife Maren and I dropped by to see Frank and Nancy. While Maren and Nancy visited in their family room, Frank and I were in his garage/model boat shop. I happened to spot an old, as in 50 years old, DragN' Fli 40 on a bottom shelf. Frank stated that boat was the original prototype for what would become the Dumas DragN' Fli 40.
I mentioned to Frank that the old 40 powered hydroplane could be converted to a 20 powered outboard hydroplane. Frank's response was, "Have at it" and along with the boat provided an O.S. 20 Outboard and a heavy duty servo for steering.
The solid brass prop shaft stuffing tube was removed using a metal cut off wheel. The solid aluminum motor mount plate remained in the boat since it didn't interfere with anything. Well, that and I couldn't loosen the nuts to remove the plate. Using 1/32" plywood, I extended the front cowling to make the boat appear like a full size "Kneeler." I made a typical outboard tunnel radio box and solid rod linkages for steering. Sullivan Brand cable provides throttle control. Rear ride pads were added to assist in lifting the transom. The O.S. 20 OB was secured to the transom using 6-32 blind nuts and cap head screws. The blind nuts for the turn fit were utilized to attach the turn fin mounting bracket and turn fin. A driver/helmet were made from foam, coated with West Systems, and painted. The boat was repainted in some areas.
I've run the boat several times. During the first outing, it was obvious the boat was running with a positive attitude. So positive that I blew the boat off the water. However, the good news was the radio box was water tight. I lowered the C/L of the prop so it was even with the bottom of the sponsons for the next time to the lake.
The result was a much better ride attitude. Jeez, this is almost as much text as I used to write for model boating magazines.
