Receiver batteries
- Thread starter SayMikey
- Start date
Help Support Intlwaters:
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2003
- Messages
- 16,360
2150 & 2500 mah 6 volt nimh packs from Batteries America. One charge easily gets me through open water and a full weekend of racing. No special chargers, no regulators, no risks. 
Last edited by a moderator:
2200 mah "integy" 6 volt nimh 5 cell hump packs. fit most radio boxes well, $16.00 at my lhs . i can run all weekend on one pack without recharging, don't though, fresh pack each race morning. jr z650 for steering, hi tec 225 mg for throttle & third channel. that & what don said !
. i can run all weekend on one pack without recharging, don't though, fresh pack each race morning. jr z650 for steering, hi tec 225 mg for throttle & third channel. that & what don said !
Last edited by a moderator:
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2007
- Messages
- 289
5-cell Sanyo Eneloop NiMH. 2,000 mAh packs, easy care of a NiMH with the shelf life of a lipo (90% charge retention at 6 months).
Also: 1,500 mAh 2/3A NiMH (Elite cells) from No BS Batteries http://www.hangtimes.com
Also: 1,500 mAh 2/3A NiMH (Elite cells) from No BS Batteries http://www.hangtimes.com
Greg Hahn
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2008
- Messages
- 529
For those not happy with Nimh batteries. The problems of initial break in and holding a charge have not been well documented. I myself was not happy with them until I learned what was needed from the start to get them up to par.
They have a heavy internal restance that needs to be exersized before they will hold a good charge. I have found that a new pack needs to be cycled very slowly from full to empty several times before they will come up to full capacity. And I mean very slowly, it may take a full week or so of charging and discharging to get them where they need to be, but as Don F. and others have said, once you get them up properly they will last what seems like for ever.
The charge/dis charge cycle should be as slow as possible. I use 16 to 20 hour charge times always, this seems to max the capacity and will give the pack longevity. Fast charging Nimh's is not the way to go. You can do it to get by at the pond but always go back to the shop and slowly bring them back up.
I recomend a full 6 to 10 cycles for conditioning a new pack. I know that sounds like a bunch but it works!
gh
They have a heavy internal restance that needs to be exersized before they will hold a good charge. I have found that a new pack needs to be cycled very slowly from full to empty several times before they will come up to full capacity. And I mean very slowly, it may take a full week or so of charging and discharging to get them where they need to be, but as Don F. and others have said, once you get them up properly they will last what seems like for ever.
The charge/dis charge cycle should be as slow as possible. I use 16 to 20 hour charge times always, this seems to max the capacity and will give the pack longevity. Fast charging Nimh's is not the way to go. You can do it to get by at the pond but always go back to the shop and slowly bring them back up.
I recomend a full 6 to 10 cycles for conditioning a new pack. I know that sounds like a bunch but it works!
gh
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2007
- Messages
- 289
To add to Greg's comments, here is a good FOQ that has some info on "forming charges":
http://www.hangtimes.com/rcbattery_faq.html
I charge new NiMHs at C/10 for 24 hours, then cycle at C/5. Lather, Rinse, Repeat until you get at least rated capacity. Most times I get it the first time, sometimes it take longer. It has never taken 10 cycles for me.
When charging I never use more than 1C and usually charge at C/2 with a C/5 discharge - C/10 charge every couple of months. Been working well for me for the last 20 plus years.
http://www.hangtimes.com/rcbattery_faq.html
I charge new NiMHs at C/10 for 24 hours, then cycle at C/5. Lather, Rinse, Repeat until you get at least rated capacity. Most times I get it the first time, sometimes it take longer. It has never taken 10 cycles for me.
When charging I never use more than 1C and usually charge at C/2 with a C/5 discharge - C/10 charge every couple of months. Been working well for me for the last 20 plus years.
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2007
- Messages
- 3,800
Im probably going to get ripped to shreds for this but.....for my 20 boats i use good ol sanyo 250mah or 500-600mah nicad flat packs...no problems.....i also use alkaline dry cells in some of my boats as im getting a true 6+ volts when they are new....as far as the battery holder cracking i just tape em up and at the end of the day i just take the batteries out to relieve the ears for the contacts...Cant remember the last time ive had a battery failure. I know its absurdly simple but its been working for me for years and any battery can fail under the right circumstances.
Last edited by a moderator:
Greg Hahn
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2008
- Messages
- 529
Not to change the direction of this thread but often battery problems can turn out to be also switch problems.
Mikey and I were talking last eve on this very subject.
Most of the small switches available for radio systems are too light duty and only have single contacts. A switch can go intermitent and it acts like a battery problem.
Just brought it up to say keep and eye on the switch.
I use the heavy duty Futaba switch for all. It is double contact and heavy wire (built in redundency)
Mikey and I were talking last eve on this very subject.
Most of the small switches available for radio systems are too light duty and only have single contacts. A switch can go intermitent and it acts like a battery problem.
Just brought it up to say keep and eye on the switch.
I use the heavy duty Futaba switch for all. It is double contact and heavy wire (built in redundency)
Similar threads
