Push rod end cap inserts

[Jarcaines]

Hey all, I’m putting together a 7.5 Lee Craft for the NAMBA Nats this year and I’ve been looking for those tapered inserts you put into the carbon fiber stealing rods. Does anyone have a great source for those or an alternate for building out the steering pushrods on a 7.5 outboard?

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Hey all, I’m putting together a 7.5 Lee Craft for the NAMBA Nats this year and I’ve been looking for those tapered inserts you put into the carbon fiber stealing rods. Does anyone have a great source for those or an alternate for building out the steering pushrods on a 7.5 outboard?

Look at Central Hobbies.com
They have carbon rods with titanium threaded inserts

 

[Jarcaines]

Thanks!

 

[Mark Anderson]

JR do cables.

 

[Jarcaines]

JR do cables.

Okay, that’s easy though. Thanks Mark

 

[Mark Anderson]

Yep, easy and bulletproof.

 

[Brandon Atwell]

Looks like you’ll go with the cables, but for other who may be interested
I personally wouldn’t go the carbon rod with inserts in each end for tunnel steering. A good crash on a tunnel with severe weight transfer will most likely snap or break the rod. Big fan of them in something like a sport hydro however.
For the tunnels, we use a 4-40 rod with a carbon rod sleeved over for added rigidity. The threaded end of the rod we use either the Dubro heavy duty or monster ball links and attach those to the engine steering arm.
The servo end we use pushrod connectors. Been using some very nice ones from StumpFab that are threaded with a locknut on the backside to attach to the arm. The inlet holes have to be drilled out to accept the rods but they hold up much better than the others from dubro that have the locking ring you have to force on.

Best thing about the rods versus the hollow tubes is if you need a quick turn around for a heat they can be bent back into place to get through for a proper fix afterwards.
Never have used the cable setup, always preferred a guaranteed solid rod

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Carbon is fine for airplanes but never had huge luck with carbon rods on boats. Carbon rods/sleeves are always a problem. They do not fair well in wipeouts and just general use. The stuff wants to split at the ends under stress of wipeouts just running to rudders. The large diameter not easy to find seals for.

1/8" stainless steel rod is incredibly bulletproof.

Thread it 6-32 at the ends and thread on Dubro Monster Ball Joints.

I make them up threaded in the lathe for nice clean threads. I have it in titanium too for the throttle.

 

[HTV Boats]

I have been using 3mm rods for heavy duty use, OSE has them with swivel ends.
Mic
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=Boots+&+Linkage

 

[Wasted wages]

Have mentioned this before...

You can make a 4-40 push rod incredibly strong by sleeving it with a tightly fitting brass tube. Use the heaviest wall tube you can find..buff the push rod clean, brush on solder flux and slip the brass tube over it.

Heat and solder, wicking the solder as far into the tube as possible from end to end.

I've used these on riggers, mono, twins,
and I've never had one bend. Something else will give first... I don't run outboards, but I can't see why it wouldn't work for them..