Pulling what's left of my hair out

[larcor69]

Last month I built a brand new stealth sport 40 prepped it for paint and using Rust-Oleum gloss I primed it and gave it a really nice paint job looked wonderful except I had a few pin holes I missed figured I would sand the spots and fill with some spot putty and then repaint it well now every time I hit it with paint the paint crinkles, I have sanded it down four times and I've had the same problem each time ever since I'm just putting this out there I've done everything from wiping it down with alcohol changing to new can of paint so now I do have one question, I am going to go ahead and sander all down and reprep it with primer and wait till spring and then paint it with klass kote, I'm just hoping there will be no issue running the epoxy two-part over the sanded down Rust-Oleum

 

[larcor69]

Another quick question would a paint stripper work on this fiberglass without damaging it

 

[longballlumber]

I have used citra strip on epoxy glass hulls that had rattle can paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Citristrip-Q...&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583451678157748&th=1

 

[John Beardslee]

If it wrinkles only where you used spotting putty, then the putty is probably not compatible with that paint. As long as you were using the same paints.
Klass Kote is great stuff, I like to spray it warm and let it dry for a couple of weeks under my heat lamps. Not close but it helps flow it out and cure to a good hard surface. I never prepped with anything finer than 100 grit, it is a race boat after all. Never had it lift or peel.

 

[larcor69]

If it wrinkles only where you used spotting putty, then the putty is probably not compatible with that paint. As long as you were using the same paints.
Klass Kote is great stuff, I like to spray it warm and let it dry for a couple of weeks under my heat lamps. Not close but it helps flow it out and cure to a good hard surface. I never prepped with anything finer than 100 grit, it is a race boat after all. Never had it lift or peel

 

[larcor69]

I have been using the same primer over top of the spot putty which is that red Bondo spot putty stuff prior to laying any paint down I painted a Phil Thomas sport 20 and I use the spot putty over top of primer to fill in some pin holes then reprimered over it and that paint never had no problem crinkling same stuff Rust-Oleum

 

[Kevin Sheren]

Cory are you priming the area you used the putty on? You will probably have to prime the area again. I have had to reprime when patching, Something to do with the putty.

Kevin

 

[larcor69]

Cory are you priming the area you used the putty on? You will probably have to prime the area again. I have had to reprime when patching, Something to do with the putty.

Kevin

Yes sir I reprime it after sanding and and spot putty and I wait for it to thoroughly dry then I shoot some light coats of paint now this last time I put a light coat on last night it sat on the boat all night long it was fine I hit a light coat on it this morning and it crinkled up again

 

[Roxyflash]

Strip it start over buy some good paint ditch the rattle can invest in a compressor and touch up gun those pin holes can test your patience

 

[doug long]

Looks like the area is contaminated. Best thing to do is start over. Make sure before you primer the area wash it thoroughly. Then prime, add spot putty if needed.

 

[Mike Hughes]

I will never again spray rattle can on a boat. That has happen to me for the last time.

 

[larcor69]

Looks like the area is contaminated. Best thing to do is start over. Make sure before you primer the area wash it thoroughly. Then prime, add spot putty if needed.

We're thinking the spot putty is having a reaction with the paint and as I sand it the spot putty gets grounded into the sanding particles because each time I resend reputty and repaint the crinkling of the paint keeps getting larger throughout the whole entire area I sanded so we're going to try resanding it down to the fiberglass and use denatured alcohol instead of rubbing alcohol to clean it with and use something else to fill pin holes and go from there

 

[doug long]

Prime, sand, prime, sand until the pin holes have disappeared. If the pin holes are that tiny, shouldn't take to long

 

[brad nichols]

I have heard that epoxy paint won't stick to Rust Oleium ? Are you using 2 part spot putty otherwise it could lift

Brad

 

[Dave Gilles]

theres some kinda solvent stuck on there usually. you need to step away from it for a while let it sit under a heat lamp or something. give it a week or two. test the area again with a few spurts of rattle can. you may need to literally epoxy seal over the area if the solvent is impregnated the wood or fiber. patience is the key.

 

[K F Wheeler]

Any epoxy after it's cured and, before covering with paint, more epoxy, tuna fish, peanut butter... Whatever... Should be cleaned with Denatured Alcohol or Acetone. A step that can remind you later on when you least expect it. Certainly NOT making fun of the certain circumstances!! I don't use any "Bondo" or other spot filling putty. My preference. Regardless of what filler is used, a certain amount of "airing out" should still be exorcised. Any bubble or remanence of less than perfect removal can or will remind you later! After all the caution/effort/time it takes, now is not the time to give up. The end finish will show the effort that was spent.
At least that's what I keep telling myself!!! Over and over and over...
Not recommended by West System, I've started using their G-Flex with 410 Microlight fairing Filler for those pin holes and such. The 410 gives the epoxy a light tan color that makes it a little easier to see. Useful when filling some of those seems and whatnot. G-Flex, while not a "five second" curing epoxy. Does allow plenty of time to mix well. and does provide consistent results. I can do what I need to do. And in the morning, I know it's done it's job! Also, there is a reason for someone naming certain products. Because they work!! Hope this helps!!!

Ken

 

[Shannon Muth]

Regardless of hull type (epoxy or gel coated polyester), I always prep the hulls for paint using a grey Scotch-Brite pad, old school Tide detergent, and the hottest water you can tolerate. Scuff the hull rinsing the pad often and rinse the hull when finished. I use Plaster of Paris to fill the pinholes before priming and Metal Glaze catalyzed putty over the primer to fill anything that was missed. There's a reason why automotive paint stores carry the Tide in vending machine sizes, it works!

 

[Roxyflash]

I use evercoat polyester glazing putty it’s like bondo but creamy it’s made to fill pin holes works on various materials like fiberglass primer most paints might want to read about it.

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

I use evercoat polyester glazing putty it’s like bondo but creamy it’s made to fill pin holes works on various materials like fiberglass primer most paints might want to read about it.

The glazing putty, is it air dry or catalyzed, IE: do you mix with hardner?

 

[Timbo Whalen]

I have been using the same primer over top of the spot putty which is that red Bondo spot putty stuff prior to laying any paint down I painted a Phil Thomas sport 20 and I use the spot putty over top of primer to fill in some pin holes then reprimered over it and that paint never had no problem crinkling same stuff Rust-Oleum

Try the spot putty you add hardener to....and, yes, you'll have to prime over spot putty.

The pin holes are always an issue when parts/hulls aren't vacuum bagged....and they're also heavier.