Prop Tech 101/ a group effort.....

[Slideblues]

Ya might hang loose for a while and see if he finds another supplier, or find a copy of the info changed to another format.

Gene ;D

 

[waterbug]

I can load it in Quattro but don't know how to turn the pages, it only shows 1 small part of them.

If you AUZ guys get it please send me a E-mail ??

BLUE, It's there i just can't get it out. I'm a dummy when it comes to that !! I'M A LLAMA ;D

I just added water and stirred a few to many times in the early years : diabeties new cant touch the stuff !!!

 

[Ian Inverarity]

Here is what Waterbug is talking about:

http://rcboat.com/freesoft.htm

Under prop documentation software

Although I dont think this relates to the duplicator props, I tihink this might have just been a demo of a bunch of props that Marty was testing at the time.

Ian.

 

[Slideblues]

Yeah that one still works, I thought it was this one, it flashes discontinued at ya........

http://rcboat.com/propduplicator.htm

Gene ;D

 

[waterbug]

Yea,

They will be good for hydros, but a little too much for tunnels, saw's they would be close !!!!

These specs were from 1999, i'm sure they have changed some!!!

He dose have a lot of info in that site !!!!! A LOT OF IT!!! Especially for use newbees !!! The engine analysis program would be a good thing for every serious racer !!!!!

The pieces on engine blueprinting , setup detail and tuned pipes are a masterpiece by themselves.

JUST HERE HANGING LOOSE BLUE

 

[Ian Inverarity]

There is some very good stuff there, I read most of it years ago. Unfortunately they have not added much to it since I first saw it years ago! :

Well worth reading....

Nitrocrazed racing: I've forgotten more than I ever knew....

 

[waterbug]

Yea NITRO,

It never hurts to go back and refresh some of those dead braincells every now and then !!!

EXCELLANT READING FOR PEOPLE LOOKING FOR INFO!

 

[Slideblues]

All the good stuff I find, I write down in a log book so I wont forget it, then I loose the pages........

Gene ;D

Phase III Racing: My mind is like a steel trap, but the spring broke and all the teeth fell out.

 

[TomMoorehouse]

I just thought I would point something out.....

Gary Preusse holds/held more world records that anybody I know. Last time I looked into his prop box every single one of them was nice and shiny on both sides.

They were also a darker color than most from heat treating.

Personally I dont believe a measureable difference can be shown from polished and satin. I make mine shiny cause it looks good.

 

[Ian Inverarity]

Tom,

I think you are right about no measurable speed difference, and shiny is better looking! I am too lazy tho....

I read what Andy Brown had to say on the subject tho. He said on day he went testing a sport 40 with two identical props, one polished and one satin. The polished one would not get on plane. All of his props have been satin finish since!

Ian.

 

[waterbug]

Ok boys, lets line up and whip them out and lets see who's prop is the longest ,I mean shiniest![shinnyest]

;D ;D

spelling sucked only 1:30am est

Hey GENE,

I use to do that when I raced go karts, setup the chassie ,write it down and forget the book or

loose it !!!

 

[Slideblues]

I still wanna know what happins to my tools when I lay them down for a minute, go back to use the same tool and its gone!!!!!

Gene ;D

Phase III Racing: The faster I go, the broker I get.......

 

[Ed Radz]

Here is a safety tip for polishing props.

Last year a prop got away from me and caused a nice gash in my finger. It required a trip to the emergency room for a few stitches. Here is what I do now. Take a piece of rod the correct diameter and bend one end to form an L. Thats your handle. Now put on a drive dog. then the prop, and finally a wheel collar. Now you have some real control while at the buffing wheel.

Later!

Ed Radz

 

[Slideblues]

Great tip Ed!!!!

An on the subject of heat treating,

Here is a little science

The procedure that I heard of is 600 degree oven for 45 min. after final shapeing,

Gene ;D

 

[nitrotoys]

I use 600 grit with mothers polish, and i have a casing polisher for reloading, Its got the cracked walnut shells, I just throw the prop in there for about 30 mins, and its POLISH UP Nice and shine, and done.

quick and easy.

Now a brown prop, I can never get mine to get as THIN as his. Any tips on this?

Tom

 

[Slideblues]

I use a similar method with green Scotchbrite pad's and

Eagle One polish.

On the thin blades I would be VERY carefull, if you go to thin the prop can blow apart under load, not a fun thing!!!

Generally I will thin the area tapering out to the sharpened edge a smidge.

Gene ;D

 

[wswatzell]

My two cents... The beryllium copper material is highly toxic. I wouldn't sand, polish, or file any props made from this in my house, unless you have a respirator type mask on, & use a filtration system to trap the dust from getting spread through out your house. A common dust mask won't cut it guys.

 

[Mark Stein]

Mark, In what area of the blade do you check cup and pitch on a prop in general. The hughey gauge states 70% out from hub but it seems to me to be only in general

I somewhat understand the concept of cupping but I am curious about where to start with a prop that causes the boat to plow the sponsons into the water half way down the straight. looks like it is trying to stuff even on calm water ( this is on a rigger)

Anyone can chime in on this. I would appreciate all the help I can get.

Mark

 

[E]

If you need less lift from the prop, the logical step would be to put in an Octura X series or a Prather style anti-cavitating low-lift prop.

Also try to raise the strut or reduce negative angle to put less pressure on the front sponsons.

I don't know what prop or even what boat you are running so these are just general things to try.

 

[Ozzy]

Mark

I somewhat understand the concept of cupping but I am curious about where to start with a prop that causes the boat to plow the sponsons into the water half way down the straight. looks like it is trying to stuff even on calm water ( this is on a rigger)

Is this a problem you are having with a particular prop or is it comon with any prop that you use and what type of hydro are you having this problem with .

CHD Racing Ozzy