Please Help The New Guy Build His VS1 Tunnel Boat

[robertpickard]

You might want to try a Grimracer 40/53 2 blade and a 440/2 cut back get with Mark Sholund he send you what you need

 

[LarryConrad]

@Larry - I hear everything you're saying there... I have a couple of questions though...

1. When you rig the steering with fishing line, you still feed it through nylon sheaths? Or do you feed the cable straight out through the radio box seals with no sheaths? It makes sense that if you use long enough pushrod seals, you could glue the cable with the seal with silicone so no water can get in, and the seal could stretch out and press in with movement. No need for a sheath. But of course, the cables need to come straight out towards the engine and have a bit of tension. Maybe I'm talking out of my a$$ and this is completely wrong. Just a thought. You guys can tell me.

2. Apart from having to balance only 2 blades, why is a 2 blade easier to deal with than the 3-blade prop. I'm sure I'll get both and experiment though.

I'll consider adding a 3rd channel right from the get-go. Should be pretty simple if I use small servos for the throttle and mix. Any of you guys running a 3rd channel on an OS OB?

@Chris - cool, that's good to know. It's not like I need a whole lot of cable, but if it's a better and more inexpensive option - great!

@grimracer - Thanks Mike... I'm sure the boat is great out of the box. We all love to customize to our own tastes. Looks like I'm in the right place. -Danny

The picture Gene posted of the kit setup is very similar to how I run my controls, on my other tunnels. I use small diameter brass tubing to route the cables through the end of the radio box, no seals needed. I don't use fishing line I use braided stainless leader cable,that is nylon coated and crimping sleeves with 440 threaded eye bolts. I can buy a 20ft. roll of it in the fishing tackle dept of most any dept. store or at a bait shop for about 3 bucks. More than enough to do a whole fleet of tunnels.I suggested the 40X53/2 because it's an awesome prop on the VS1 with an OS after sharpening and balancing it,and I have no first hand experience with the 40X52/3.

Larry

 

[Danny Cruz]

On the topic of servos... I decided to stick with Futuba on this boat and try out the hi-techs on my mono whenever I get that one shipped here. Anyway, I have a voltage question...

The VS1 manual recommends a S3305 steering servo (I bought that) then, it also recommends a S3115 for the throttle. However, I'm checking each servo's spec and the S3305 will run at 6V, but the S3115 asks to be run at no higher than 4.8V. What gives? I don't think these two servos go well together :mellow:

I got the radio BTW, got a brand new 3PM-X from the local shop. -Danny

PS... I have to order the battery pack for the receiver and servos now, which I'm probably going to order with the final batch of stuff I need. Futaba recommends sticking strictly to NiCad, but I'm wondering how true that is.

 

[Slideblues]

Danny I did a quick check and the S3115 is rated 4.8v,

The sub is the S3102 6v FUTM0034 39.99.

Manual says S3201 but that seems to be a typo......

I have ran the Duratrax 5 cell 6v pack listed

No probs at all,

Gene

 

[Grimracer]

I have 3102s in my boats.. here it is

http://www3.towerhob...?&I=LXH291&P=ML

Grim

 

[Tim leyde]

@moparbarn - Thanks for the tips. I'll do that. @Tim That's much better than hauling around a battery. How much for those battery packs more or less?

Danny

The battery is $70 (from hobbypartz.com)for the charger and a Dynamite LiPo glow starter with charger is $30 (only use the charger that comes with it or you may have problems). Both are well worth it in my opinion.

Tim

 

[user 11673]

is good to know I'm not the only newbie around. Good luck Danny! Further on we could chat about our rookie's mistakes

 

[Danny Cruz]

Hi Miguel! Yep!

I'm placing the order for the remaining things I need today. Hopefully I can build come this long weekend. -D

 

[Danny Cruz]

So everything is ordered and on it's way! Hopefully in time for the long weekend so I can build then. I had to divide the stuff into 3 separate orders in order to ship some stuff via air. The field equipment, fuel and other crap like that is all coming ground. If I'm lucky, it'll arrive before the weekend too.

The entire deal was a good grand. That was after saving $75 buying Tom's used engine and a few other odds and ends I saved on. But I did go with good gear for most everything. And extras like LiFe batteries for both receiver and Tx.

I think that after buying the little other details like: Materials for the boat stand, sandpaper, sanding block, spare alkaline batteries, after run oil, Corrosion X, WD40, etc, etc I'll end up at around $1,200 total.

 

[Danny Cruz]

Hi guys... So most of the stuff arrived today. I feel like a kid at Christmas, just in time to build during the long weekend. However, I'm a little concerned about something I saw, so I wanted to run it by you all.

Check out the photo of the transom on my VS1 - My question is the following: Is the transom supposed to be off-center like that? On the starboard side the measurement of the inside of the transom to the inside of the sponson is 1-1/2" and the same gap on the port side measures 2-1/8" Meaning, the entire mounting surface of the engine is off to starboard by 3/8".

Now either, this is the way it's supposed to be for turning to the right and avoiding prop-walk, or I got a bad hull and my heart will be broken cause I can't build during labor day weekend. :blink: You guys can tell me... -Danny

 

[Danny Cruz]

Thanks for the info Greg, great to know I can start building.

 

[Danny Cruz]

So I got to the point of looking to blueprint and true the hull. I placed it over glass to make sure I had a perfectly flat surface. Looks like both sponsons are perfectly balanced to each other and there's absolutely no rocking from side to side. Not even the bit. So out of the box it looks good.

I then proceeded to run a straight edge down the ride pad. Both sides are straight and flat for the entire length of 11" from the back. However, the very last inch has an ever-so-slightly dip (when viewing upside down). The gap between the very edge of the sponsons and the straight edge at the end is maybe 1/32" Should I true anyway and flatten a bit forward to bring that last bit in? You can kind of see it in the pic below.

 

[Ron Olson]

Danny, it's good. Earlier hulls like the DPI's did this to help offset torque.

 

[Danny Cruz]

I got to the point of installing the cables through the box... I gotta say, that little plastic bit meant to be used as guides and seals for the cables coming out of the box seems less than ideal. The given that it's stiff unlike a rubber boot, feeding the cables in in quite an ordeal. I'll need to cut mine a bit and solder the tips really tight. But my worry is that once in, I I'm pretty sure that with the boat upside down, water should surely be able to get in. :s