pinholes in fiberglass

[Dan Hydro]

Terry,

I have used Icing and it works great.

easy to sand.

you should be able to get some in Fredericton (body shop or supplier), if you don't find any let me know.

Dan.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Bill , have you tried the product Ray and Boris have recommended above from Bob Violette .I heard it was reallgood as well.I had breifly heard about the icing.Where can one buy the icing.

Hydro junkie I have tried the evercoat and found it to be a bit too thick/coarse for small pin holes but it it sticks really well.Good luck.

The only reason I'm trying it is because I have more than just pin holes to fill. I've also got some reworking and smoothing of some larger areas and it was recommended by one of the body shop instuctors at school. I figure it won't hurt to try it. Someone said it clogs up sandpaper, I was told to use the finer grit spackle sanding screens to smooth it down and finish with sandpaper on a DA. As far as I can tell, it should work fine in my application

 

[Kez]

Sorry for hi-jacking the thread but I have a question on Icing: How heavy is this stuff? Is it light enough to be used to form fillets, fill large areas like taking out hooks in the bottom of hull etc?

I like the Sig Epoxolite. It is very light and can be applied smoothly. BUT it is expensive and has a very short shelf life. I am looking for an alternative.

Thanks,

 

[Bill Gibson]

Sorry for hi-jacking the thread but I have a question on Icing: How heavy is this stuff? Is it light enough to be used to form fillets, fill large areas like taking out hooks in the bottom of hull etc?

I like the Sig Epoxolite. It is very light and can be applied smoothly. BUT it is expensive and has a very short shelf life. I am looking for an alternative.

Thanks,

Good Question.....it is lighter than Bondo, and i would think epoxy mixed with fillers...i dont know why it wouldnt work for fillets,or leveling a surface, BUT you need to work quickly as it sets up fast.

 

[misshydro]

Sorry for hi-jacking the thread but I have a question on Icing: How heavy is this stuff? Is it light enough to be used to form fillets, fill large areas like taking out hooks in the bottom of hull etc?

I like the Sig Epoxolite. It is very light and can be applied smoothly. BUT it is expensive and has a very short shelf life. I am looking for an alternative.

Thanks,

Good Question.....it is lighter than Bondo, and i would think epoxy mixed with fillers...i dont know why it wouldnt work for fillets,or leveling a surface, BUT you need to work quickly as it sets up fast.

I've used it to fine toon my sponson runners on my 1/12 prohydro. Plus joe used it on the botton center section of his proboat mod gas hydro. It's very light weight. For a exparement I'd used a skim coat of bondo on a cowl and skim coat of ICING on another cowl. Guess what? the cowl with ICI was very light compared to the cowl with the bondo. The bond is everycoat light weight version. ICING wont shrink or crack neighter.

 

[Grimracer]

I use Evercoat Glaze Coat #100417. It is also a finishing and belnding putty, two part poly.. super fast work time and sands like butter.

Can be bought at auto paint stores.. just an option.. I also like Dolphin Glaze..

Grim

 

[Dan Kramer]

want to keep it light and stronger?

mix 50-50 evercoat z-grip and icing.

sands a little bit harder but has much greater strength.

z-grip also needs NOT to be taken to bare to have it stick,120-180 grit.

"tin" the area 1st. the only way i take anything to bare is if i have to weld or use pulling studs. oh yeh, i am a body tech and use this everyday.(except sunday and race days .

you can also "wet sand" the mix when ready, i do this by "catching" the product before it completely hardens but still is tacky. it takes a learning curve to get it right but works. i am in the business (body shop)to make $$$$.$$ and fix cars. all tricks help.

i have a few other tricks but i am afraid to let them out for fear of abuse of the product.

dan

 

[misshydro]

want to keep it light and stronger?

mix 50-50 evercoat z-grip and icing.

sands a little bit harder but has much greater strength.

z-grip also needs NOT to be taken to bare to have it stick,120-180 grit.

"tin" the area 1st. the only way i take anything to bare is if i have to weld or use pulling studs. oh yeh, i am a body tech and use this everyday.(except sunday and race days .

you can also "wet sand" the mix when ready, i do this by "catching" the product before it completely hardens but still is tacky. it takes a learning curve to get it right but works. i am in the business (body shop)to make $$$$.$$ and fix cars. all tricks help.

i have a few other tricks but i am afraid to let them out for fear of abuse of the product.

dan

body tech. Joe got way more years then me. He know more tricks then you can shake a stick. Learns for you oldtimers=guys like you Dan. :lol:

 

[Dan Kramer]

now watch it young un <_< if it wasnt for us oldies there wouldnt be any

kiddies :lol: :lol: