PETG in 3D Printing

[Grimracer]

Trying to optimize my time with PETG. Michael Ball is about as deep into this as anybody I know.

Mike.. hit me with a few standard "works great" settings.

Grim

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

I would like to know also. I’ve been struggling with my PETG setup.

 

[Joern Markset]

What is your issues with PETG?
About 95% of my prints are done with PETG, it is the most easy filament to use

 

[Raydee]

Biggest issue I ever have with PETG is the filament gets a bit wet and needs to be dried overnight before I print. I switched to a .6 nozzle with PETG and it prints faster and the parts are stronger due to the thicker layers.

 

[LohringMiller]

An interesting video on both translucent and higher strength printing with PET filaments. I used the method to pring some LED spotlight lenses.

Lohring Miller

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

I went to a .6 nozzle and the prints turned out worse.

 

[Raydee]

I went to a .6 nozzle and the prints turned out worse.

That's strange, with the new Arachne perimeter generator I can't even tell the difference between the .4 and .6 nozzle except my prints are about 1 hour or so less now. I guess there are many variables.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

I can. Maybe my setup is just far off or my machine is not good for PETG. PLA prints are great. PETG no so much from other prints that I’ve seen people do. Maybe just time to upgrade machines. Prusa is probably going to be my next machine.

 

[Raydee]

I own the MK3s and it has been a fantastic machine so far. When I first got into it I did a ton of research and the Prusa is what I ended up with. Highly recommended for sure.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

I have the ender 3 V2. With a upgraded hot end for PETG.

 

[Joern Markset]

I own the MK3s and it has been a fantastic machine so far. When I first got into it I did a ton of research and the Prusa is what I ended up with. Highly recommended for sure.

For sure! If you are more interested in the parts you are printing than tinker with the printer itself, Prusa is fantastic.
I have multiple Prusa`s and Caribou`s
If you want a workhorse and also want to print higher than a Prusa can do, Caribou is the path to follow

 

[Mike Bontoft]

After having a resin printer for a few years I have finally added a filament printer to my shop. I ordered the Prusa i3 MK3 kit. The printer comes with a roll of their PLA so that is what I used for all of my first prints. I have just moved over to PETG. The only difference I have found is very slight stringing which was non existent with the PLA. A friend recommended I increase the temperature of the hot end by 10deg. and make sure the printer is not in any drafts from open doors etc. I have yet to try the temperature increase. All parts in pics are the Eryone PETG. I have not tried any other brands yet

 

[Joern Markset]

I highly recomend Extrudr, their filament is just awesome

 

[the german]

I print PETG on an Ender 3 V2 and an Ender 3 Pro using Hatchbox filament.
I set the print temp to 240C and the bed to 60C and never had an issue.

Alex

 

[Nigtmare]

I print PETG at 242/82 on clean glass it prints great. clean glass with vinegar

 

[Jason Jamiel]

After having a resin printer for a few years I have finally added a filament printer to my shop. I ordered the Prusa i3 MK3 kit. The printer comes with a roll of their PLA so that is what I used for all of my first prints. I have just moved over to PETG. The only difference I have found is very slight stringing which was non existent with the PLA. A friend recommended I increase the temperature of the hot end by 10deg. and make sure the printer is not in any drafts from open doors etc. I have yet to try the temperature increase. All parts in pics are the Eryone PETG. I have not tried any other brands yet

Hey Mike, ive been printing for about 6 years or so, how do you like the resin printer? Ive been looking into them. also, if it helps, here are my retraction settings for retraction on PETG, works well

 

[longballlumber]

I guess I have been pretty lucky. The only real issue I had with PETG was getting the first layer to stick on the OEM build plate. That was resolved by an after market printer plate from Printed Solid - 3D Printers, Service, Training and Supplies

I don't have my settings committed to memory. However, when using my Prusa MK3 the default filament profiles for PETG get me pretty darn close. I some cases I will adjust some of the temperatures slightly from roll to roll. And those adjustments seem to be trial and error more than anything.

In nearly all cases, I am using and Inland brand of filament. I am somewhat spoiled, because It's stocked at a local MicroCenter store allowing me to pick up rolls on an as needed basis. I've used their PETG and PETG+ very successfully. petg : Micro Center

Another note, I read a lot about the need to dry filament. I have never needed to dry filament. My printer and the rolls (loaded in the machine), will sit for months at a time in a basement. When I store unloaded material it's kept in a bag with a couple Silica Gel packs.

 

[Mike Bontoft]

Hey Mike, ive been printing for about 6 years or so, how do you like the resin printer? Ive been looking into them. also, if it helps, here are my retraction settings for retraction on PETG, works well

Hi Jason, Thanks for that info. Would those settings be for a Bowden style printer or direct drive? I really love the fine detail I can get with the resin printer. The Epax X1 that I have has been excellent. Consumables are FEP film and once in a while the LCD screen. Many resins are quite brittle. The Siraya Tech resins are some of the strongest I have used. I have found that the cured resin machines very well. Sometimes I will print solid and pocket with the mill. I stay away from supports unless absolutely necessary.
Definitely swings and roundabouts on the two different types, between the two I think I've got everything covered.

 

[Jason Jamiel]

I guess I have been pretty lucky. The only real issue I had with PETG was getting the first layer to stick on the OEM build plate. That was resolved by an after market printer plate from Printed Solid - 3D Printers, Service, Training and Supplies

I don't have my settings committed to memory. However, when using my Prusa MK3 the default filament profiles for PETG get me pretty darn close. I some cases I will adjust some of the temperatures slightly from roll to roll. And those adjustments seem to be trial and error more than anything.

In nearly all cases, I am using and Inland brand of filament. I am somewhat spoiled, because It's stocked at a local MicroCenter store allowing me to pick up rolls on an as needed basis. I've used their PETG and PETG+ very successfully. petg : Micro Center

Another note, I read a lot about the need to dry filament. I have never needed to dry filament. My printer and the rolls (loaded in the machine), will sit for months at a time in a basement. When I store unloaded material it's kept in a bag with a couple Silica Gel packs.

your so lucky to live next to a microcenter lol, id be broke. And yeah, only time i had an issue with "wet" filament was nylon. and thats a nightmare on a good day

 

[Jason Jamiel]

Hi Jason, Thanks for that info. Would those settings be for a Bowden style printer or direct drive? I really love the fine detail I can get with the resin printer. The Epax X1 that I have has been excellent. Consumables are FEP film and once in a while the LCD screen. Many resins are quite brittle. The Siraya Tech resins are some of the strongest I have used. I have found that the cured resin machines very well. Sometimes I will print solid and pocket with the mill. I stay away from supports unless absolutely necessary.
Definitely swings and roundabouts on the two different types, between the two I think I've got everything covered.

WOW those look great. ill have to put that on my bucket list for this winter. and yes, those settings are for direct drive.