Outboard conversion

[russmustar]

Maybe someone can help-I'm trying to convert a K&B lower unit to electric by using Fuller's adapter plate and flex coupler. I get the coupler on the motor(Aquacraft UL-1) and bolt the motor to the adapter plate, then when I try to bolt the plate on the lower unit, the coupler bottoms out on the lower unit before the adapterplate and lower unit meet. As to say there's at least a 1/4" gap! Is there supposed to be another spacer or what? The coupler is bottomed out on the motor shaft,so it can't go on any further. Please, someone help! Thanks-Russ

 

[James E Beasley]

Maybe someone can help-I'm trying to convert a K&B lower unit to electric by using Fuller's adapter plate and flex coupler. I get the coupler on the motor(Aquacraft UL-1) and bolt the motor to the adapter plate, then when I try to bolt the plate on the lower unit, the coupler bottoms out on the lower unit before the adapterplate and lower unit meet. As to say there's at least a 1/4" gap! Is there supposed to be another spacer or what? The coupler is bottomed out on the motor shaft,so it can't go on any further. Please, someone help! Thanks-Russ

I had the same problem. Call me and I will tell you "the rest of the story" given to me by Fullers Fast Electric personnel, and how I fixed the problem. FFE should quit advertising that unit as a RTR conversion as it is not. Thier advertising infers it is a bolt on an run conversion, it is not. Call me, James at 615-973-6764. East Coast time zone.

 

[russmustar]

Maybe someone can help-I'm trying to convert a K&B lower unit to electric by using Fuller's adapter plate and flex coupler. I get the coupler on the motor(Aquacraft UL-1) and bolt the motor to the adapter plate, then when I try to bolt the plate on the lower unit, the coupler bottoms out on the lower unit before the adapterplate and lower unit meet. As to say there's at least a 1/4" gap! Is there supposed to be another spacer or what? The coupler is bottomed out on the motor shaft,so it can't go on any further. Please, someone help! Thanks-Russ

I had the same problem. Call me and I will tell you "the rest of the story" given to me by Fullers Fast Electric personnel, and how I fixed the problem. FFE should quit advertising that unit as a RTR conversion as it is not. Thier advertising infers it is a bolt on an run conversion, it is not. Call me, James at 615-973-6764. East Coast time zone.

Thanks James, will give you a call this afternoon/evening as Ihave to go to work this AM(UGH!)

 

[AlanN]

One thing inconsistant with electric motors is the shaft length. I have had to cut down the shaft in every motor I have used for my lower ends. I am not using the adaptor that Ray sells but I am guessing this is a similar problem.

I try to protect the inside of the can from debris with a paper towel or similar when cutting down the shaft with a heavy duty cut off wheel on my dremel. Good Luck!

 

[DPeterson]

Ditto on what Alan said.

Plus it is best to keep the coupler as close to the end bell as you can. When the coupler is hanging out on the end it creates more vibration as they are not in perfect balance.

Doug

 

[russmustar]

Ditto on what Alan said.
Plus it is best to keep the coupler as close to the end bell as you can. When the coupler is hanging out on the end it creates more vibration as they are not in perfect balance.

Doug

Thanks guys, it looks to me like the adapter plate is not thick enough, it should be at least as thick as the coupler is because the coupler is close to bottoming out against the motor case so shortening the motor shaft will not help. Either the adapter plate is too thin or the coupler is to thick. I think I'm gonna make a spacer for the motor because I believe shortening the coupler is asking for trouble since the cable just floats in the square drive. Thanks again-Russ

 

[Randy Naylor]

I have gone back to machining my setups. This way I know every one is happy.

 

[properchopper]

Ray Fuller just introduced a new machined adaptor plate on RRR " New Products" forum. Very nice piece and appears to be tall enough to not require shortening the motor shaft.

 

[James E Beasley]

Ray Fuller just introduced a new machined adaptor plate on RRR " New Products" forum. Very nice piece and appears to be tall enough to not require shortening the motor shaft.

Wonder if he is going to offer trade-in allowances for those of us that bought the "underdesigned" models? What is "RRR" please? Thanks, JB

 

[russmustar]

Ray Fuller just introduced a new machined adaptor plate on RRR " New Products" forum. Very nice piece and appears to be tall enough to not require shortening the motor shaft.

Wonder if he is going to offer trade-in allowances for those of us that bought the "underdesigned" models? What is "RRR" please? Thanks, JB

James-that's www.rumrunnerracing.com join the forums it's all electric Later-Russ

 

[Flyguy55]

I think its an advantage to lower the motor as far as possible on the lower unit to lower the CG in the turns . I have 2 of the earlier designs that use tubing spacers as standoffs. I cut the motor shaft down . Replace the copper standoffs with alum and shorten the standoffs , and shorten the cable at both ends till it all fits right . It wouldnt be hard to to get rid of the CF spacer and use Alum tubing standoffs .

 

[D. Newland]

Not sure if this has been addressed yet, so here it goes:

Are you using the stubby version of the 5 mm to 3/16" Octura coupler?

 

[russmustar]

I'm using the adapter that Ray at Fuller's sent me with the adapter plate, I figure he knew I'd be using them together? It's just so typical that we as customers are used as guinea pigs and have to do the 'field' testing! Thanks-Russ

 

[D. Newland]

I know Ray has the stubby ones, but I don't know what's in the kit.

The stubby measures 24 mm. The longer one measures 32 mm. FYI.

 

[Patrick M]

The plastic adapter is made by REK to be used with their injection molded lower unit which is bored to provide clearance for the flex shaft coupler. Your K&B leg has a shallow depression in the top mounting surface (maybe 3/16"?) which is not deep enough to clear the coupler. Making a spacer to fit is one solution, another option is to bore the leg to provide clearance. The clearance hole on an REK leg is about 0.65" deep measured from the mounting surface and has a 0.40" ID.

 

[russmustar]

Thanks guys for all the help-now if only the ponds would thaw here in mid MI!!! Thanks again-Russ