OUCH!

[Rich Jones]

Rich, I have a message off to Futaba with a few questions.. when I hear something I will.

Let you know via PM
or
Post it here

Your call.

Grim

Either way is fine Grim… Thanks for trying to help me…

 

[Grimracer]

Ok.. thanks.. we will get it figured out.. or we are going have some idea what might have happen.

It would be nice to see that boat with the a 400mm antenna and the RX label facing up.. but.. lets keep learning!

Grim

 

[Grimracer]

Frist contact back.. From the gang at Futaba USA


"Futaba"
Unfortunately, being there are a lot of variables at play, and we are just going off the information provided we can’t really point at anything directly and say “that’s it!” right now. I’d like to ask if he had his failsafe set and what was it set to? I’m not familiar with the zippkits throttle setup, do those normally feature a throttle return spring?

I’m asking for more clarification on our end of the Savox thing, and I do remember hearing this also.

"Grim"
Rich, If there is anything you can add to this? (sorry to be the middle man but we all learn then, also, VERY HAPPY TO HELP ANYEWAY I CAN!)

Thanks

 

[Rich Jones]

Frist contact back.. From the gang at Futaba USA


"Futaba"
Unfortunately, being there are a lot of variables at play, and we are just going off the information provided we can’t really point at anything directly and say “that’s it!” right now. I’d like to ask if he had his failsafe set and what was it set to? I’m not familiar with the zippkits throttle setup, do those normally feature a throttle return spring?

I’m asking for more clarification on our end of the Savox thing, and I do remember hearing this also.

"Grim"
Rich, If there is anything you can add to this? (sorry to be the middle man but we all learn then, also, VERY HAPPY TO HELP ANYEWAY I CAN!)

Thanks

The zipp kits throttle set up is very simple. Coupler on Servo, Coupler on Carb. Throttle opens and closes directly in relation to the servo turning. It uses a flex cable. I’ve been using this setup for 3 seasons. No issues and I guarantee not the issue here. I’ve been using Savox servos for the same amount of time. Never had a glitch. I haven’t had a chance to mess around with it yet. Like I said the radio worked on shore after the crash. I still have to check my fail safe settings. But let’s say I didn’t have any set up. It still doesn’t explain why I lost control at 50-75 yards. It is the same exact setup I’ve run in multiple boats for multiple seasons. Radio box was bone dry as it always is. I will report back when I can check the radio settings. I know I looked at the voltages and they were fine. Life batteries and both transmitter and receiver reflected 6.6 or 6.7. Did vibration get to the receiver? Maybe? Never has before. Has the switch developed a short? Possibly but I have to play around with it to see if I can reproduce. I’ve been spending some time trying to get my Slingshot Rigger finished:

 

[Grimracer]

Let me know what you find regarding any vibration or switch issues. If I hear any more on my end i will post as well.

Grim

 

[Rich Jones]

Well, I finally checked my radio settings. I hadn’t run since but looked this morning. NO failsafe set up. Doesn’t explain why I lost signal or whatever glitched but sure explains what happened next. Guess this one is my bad!

 

[RaceMechaniX]

I wonder if the Zipp direct throttle is transferring ignition coil EMI to the servo and perhaps back-feeding to the receiver? The flex assembly is all metallic as far as I can see. Although most gas throttle linkages are mostly metal there is usually a plastic part somewhere in the line which electrically insulates the engine from the servo. Just throwing out a possible root cause.

 

[Rich Jones]

I wonder if the Zipp direct throttle is transferring ignition coil EMI to the servo and perhaps back-feeding to the receiver? The flex assembly is all metallic as far as I can see. Although more gas throttle linkages are mostly metal there is usually a plastic part somewhere in the line which electrically insulates the engine from the servo. Just throwing out a possible root cause.

That’s a good thought. It hasn’t been an issue in the past. I will say that the aluminum flex coupler attaches with screws to the small round plastic servo horn supplied with the servo. If I continue to have signal loss I will keep in mind as a possible source of interference. Thanks Tyler!

 

[Grimracer]

Rich, do you have a metal arm on the throttle servo?

 

[Rich Jones]

Rich, do you have a metal arm on the throttle servo?

What attaches to the plastic servo disk is an aluminum coupler with a set screw that bites on the flex shaft. I do have a metal horn in the steering servo. Here is a pic of the shaft kit from their website.

 

[Rich Jones]

Repair on the Lauterbach has been under way for a couple of weeks. When this thread began, I posted pics of the damaged boat. I wound up having to cut away about 2/3 of the bottom. The front deck piece peeled up cleanly up to about bulkhead 4 and that will be no problem just to glue back down. In fact, all the longitudinal pieces stayed intact. From the back, the left sides of bulkheads 2 and 3 were blown out. The rear deck piece was destroyed so I removed that. The left bottom from the engine well forward had three holes and the bottom of one of the forward bulkheads was broken. My rule of thumb with repairs is cut everything back to clean, non damaged frame, repair any frame damage, glue in sticks for gluing surface and re-sheet. A big shout out goes to Bob Blazer who had bulkhead 2&3 along with various other parts like decking, bottom, etc cut out on the laser cutter for me. Thanks Bob! As you can see from the pics, the structural repair is complete, and after I add some fiberglass tape to various seams and get the front bottom glued on, I’ll be ready to attach the rear deck piece, various filling, and then it will be on to the rear cowl deck repairs. When complete, while I like the look of natural wood, I’ll need to paint this one.

 

[Roxyflash]

Looking good going to be fun removing all the finish to paint it.Keep you busy during the cold winter month.You going with the blue or some other colors?

 

[Rich Jones]

Looking good going to be fun removing all the finish to paint it.Keep you busy during the cold winter month.You going with the blue or some other colors?

Think I might go with white, with black trim. Something simple. Once I get the repairs done, I’ll put it on the shelf until the weather warms up again. It probably won’t get painted until Spring.

 

[Roxyflash]

Yeh I painted the slingshot yesterday was almost 50 hurried up paint the cowl and lids then the clear on sponsons and tub brought it in the garage had a small heater warming it up once it dried brought it in the basement the garage is attach to the house and the smell will enter the house if sprayed in side the garage and my wife can’t deal with the smell.I will post a picture of the rigger tonite.

 

[Rich Jones]

Yeh I painted the slingshot yesterday was almost 50 hurried up paint the cowl and lids then the clear on sponsons and tub brought it in the garage had a small heater warming it up once it dried brought it in the basement the garage is attach to the house and the smell will enter the house if sprayed in side the garage and my wife can’t deal with the smell.I will post a picture of the rigger tonite.

Cool look forward to seeing it. I feel ya, I paint in a tent outside. I don’t even have an intermediate area so the weather needs to at least be 50-60 degrees. So I feel ya on that whole thing. If it could only be perpetually 70-75 degrees!

 

[Rich Jones]

Front bottom fitted and glued in today. Coated the whole side of piece that contacts the boat with epoxy but left a 1/8 inch perimeter around the outside free of epoxy. Coated the frames with thickened epoxy but left the same 1/8” perimeter around the outside. I then put a bead of thick CA on the front lip and up the middle keel and side rail up to the bend and put the piece in and held down the front part and sprayed accelerator. Once that firmed up, I got out thin Ca with a long thin applicator tip and I squeezed it in the outside seams and hit with accelerator, working my way to the back. Since I had to use epoxy for sealing and strength, but I had no real way to clamp the piece down, I essentially used CA to clamp the part down. Worked out pretty well. I will hit the seams with fiberglass tape and epoxy.

 

[Dave Gilles]

Rich this is way cheaper than rebuilding a boat.

integrated tach $99
https://www.detroitperformancerc.co...ronics-ikilly2-system-monitor-and-kill-switch
basic version $50
https://www.detroitperformancerc.com/product-page/hilantronics-rceks-5gk-kill-switch

 

[Rich Jones]

Some more shots from the past week or so. Seams inside the Non Trip and bottom fiberglassed and floatation put back in. Rear deck has been attached and sanded flush. Front and Rear Hatch fit is good. The rear hatch needs some repairs and fiberglass reinforcement but the cowls were not damaged thankfully.

 

[Roxyflash]

Looks real strong with the glass job.Once painted will look nice again.

 

[Rich Jones]

Looks real strong with the glass job.Once painted will look nice again.

Thanks, yeah I think it’ll be as good as it was. Actually, better from a looks standpoint. The finish closeup was rough at best. It is getting a blower and zoomies, maybe a windshield, and an actual paint job.