OMG,.. more issues,.. .21 engine problem

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You also might want to check inside the fuel tank. Sometimes the brass tube may have a break and/or if silicone tube with clunker might be split. Had that happen too.

I've had every problem in the book I think lol
 
Ryans plastic tanks.. it's not a problem going through the tanks.. All checked good.. no leaks.. no flow problem.. tonight I will put another motor in this boat.. After that I can rule out all the items OUTSIDE the engine itself,..
 
Is your starter spinning fast enough, We had a motor that would not start we changed starters and it fired right up.
 
Tony check the power going to your glow igniter.

Sounds like your wires are reversed going to the igniter. The positive lead should be going to the middle not the outside of the plug. I've reversed them before and that's exactly what happened, the water jacket and head got hot because I was running current through them instead of the plug element. When I saw it arc out on the head I knew something was messed up and fixed it. It will look fine when you take the plug out too because theres nowhere else for the power to go.

Brian
 
Impossible to do this over the internet.... all good answers. Let me ask........did you try different fuel? Drain the system put fresh fuel in it before anything else. I have stories going back years on that one
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Have you tried changing the plug? I've seen similar happen and all it was a bad (even though it was new) plug causing it.

Chris
yeah, or at the very least pull the plug and put your driver on it and see if it's glowing. I recently had a plug distort the wire so that it was touching the plug body somewhere along its length, it was drawing the correct amount of current but the wire wasn't getting hot.
 
yes sir,.. changed plugs, fuel,.. I even held my mouth differently.. I am 99% sure it's the crank to case seal causing fuel draw issues. About to switch to all 45 size boats anyway..
 
You can tell a lot about the crank / case seal by turning the engine over with no plug installed. Turning over slowly in the normal direction, with the throttle open, you should feel slight resistance on the downstroke, just before the transfer ports open (compression of the trapped volume in the case). Turning in reverse, you should feel slight resistance on the up stroke; after the transfer ports close (trying to expand the trapped volume in the case). If the case seal is bad, you may feel little or no resistance, and may well hear gas escaping and / or rushing in. When it gets to that stage, usually the first noticeable thing is that you can't stop the engine, either by cutting the throttle, or by choking it with a finger / thumb. It will start to hurt throttle response etc too, and ultimate performance. I've seen a few with these symptoms, but I've never personally seen an engine which wouldn't start because the crank seal was bad. Not saying it can't happen, but I think it would have to be so bad you'd notice it immediately from the above kind of methodology...
 
Have you tried blowing in the pipe to make sure that the pipe pressure is getting to the tank. The fast retraction from the carb sounds like the tank is going under vacuum when the motor runs. Once the motor stops, the air goes back into the tank from the carb and equalizes the pressure. You then start the process all over again. Just wipe down the pipe and blw into it to see if the fuel is forced from the fuel tank.
 
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