Nova 46...good info to know

[Marty Davis]

Friends I just got done measuring the timing numbers on the production motors...these number run really good!

- bore .816

- stroke .867

- ave exhaust timing 186 (main exhaust port 189 and exhaust boosters 183)

- boost 132

- transfer 135

- crank open 211 ATDC

- crank close 69 ATDC

- total intake duration 217

After I tested each of the protype motors I sent them to Martin Truex to run...Some lessons we have learned during testing:

- Tank needs to have 5/32 tubing. I simply could not get my boat to run more than a few laps with the 1/8" tubing in my tank. It would run strong and then just quit.

- These motors need a nice long break-in. I tried to "go fast" before it was completely broken in and it just acted weird...after about 20 oz of fuel through it on the bench it settled down and acted PERFECT.

- I don't recommend very low oil fuels and I DO recommend some castor in the fuel.

- The motors do not need much water cooling (both Martin and I ran them most of the time without even hooking up the waterline). They really need to get up to temp to get the P/S fit right and burn the fuel.

- We found as Martin was running the first two motors (I gave Martin the green light to modifiy these first prototypes any way he wanted) he actually stuck the pistons. We determing this to be caused by 1) low oil in the fuel (12%), 2) No castor in the fuel, 3) running the motor hard before they were fully broken in (he was trying to get ready for the Huntsville record trial and didn't have much time), 4) running the motor too cool.

On his runs with the last prototype (completely stock...this one is just like the production motors) with a little castor added to the fuel, no water cooling, and after I had finished the break-in, his decription to me on the phone was simply "AWESOME".

Aaron, Martin and I have found these to be the most powerful of all the 45 motors we have run. Great torque and will turn a ton of RPM. (Aaron or Martin, if I have misspoken, please step in and give your accurate findings).

Yes I agree the rear exhaust with the 180 degree header is not as "swoopy" and may not fit as nice in some boats as the front exhaust motors, but I think the performance will make-up for it.

Glenn

Glenn:

Do you have the rod length?

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Marty, I don't remember what it is off the top of my head...I can post it when I get home.

Have a Merry Christmas!

Glenn

 

[dwb2620]

Guy's

as Glenn as stated!!!

these motors have to make HEAT!!!! cant make this anymore clear!

Take your time to run them in!!!!

Over last 6 months i have tested 5 of these motors for Novarossi,

i even had this motor screaming down the front straight at 90mph then leaned the needle untill motor would flat out stop

just to see if i could break it, no luck( nothing is ever bullet proof) touch wood lol...

Yes i run 3% castor in my mix and never have stuck a piston!!!

have run a lot of fuel through Novarossi 7.5cc motors and already won state championship and performance just outstanding

anyone feel free to email me at

[email protected]

or call me on 0423 299 082

any questions

here is video of Novarossi 46 in testing 90mph+

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIVTE-h4GvY

regards Aaron

What boat is that?

Thanks,

David

 

[ozbryan]

It's a JAE

 

[Lay26]

i noticed no one wants to answer the pipe question. h34r: h34r: h34r:

 

[aaron alberico]

Friends I just got done measuring the timing numbers on the production motors...these number run really good!

- bore .816

- stroke .867

- ave exhaust timing 186 (main exhaust port 189 and exhaust boosters 183)

- boost 132

- transfer 135

- crank open 211 ATDC

- crank close 69 ATDC

- total intake duration 217

After I tested each of the protype motors I sent them to Martin Truex to run...Some lessons we have learned during testing:

- Tank needs to have 5/32 tubing. I simply could not get my boat to run more than a few laps with the 1/8" tubing in my tank. It would run strong and then just quit.

- These motors need a nice long break-in. I tried to "go fast" before it was completely broken in and it just acted weird...after about 20 oz of fuel through it on the bench it settled down and acted PERFECT.

- I don't recommend very low oil fuels and I DO recommend some castor in the fuel.

- The motors do not need much water cooling (both Martin and I ran them most of the time without even hooking up the waterline). They really need to get up to temp to get the P/S fit right and burn the fuel.

- We found as Martin was running the first two motors (I gave Martin the green light to modifiy these first prototypes any way he wanted) he actually stuck the pistons. We determing this to be caused by 1) low oil in the fuel (12%), 2) No castor in the fuel, 3) running the motor hard before they were fully broken in (he was trying to get ready for the Huntsville record trial and didn't have much time), 4) running the motor too cool.

On his runs with the last prototype (completely stock...this one is just like the production motors) with a little castor added to the fuel, no water cooling, and after I had finished the break-in, his decription to me on the phone was simply "AWESOME".

Aaron, Martin and I have found these to be the most powerful of all the 45 motors we have run. Great torque and will turn a ton of RPM. (Aaron or Martin, if I have misspoken, please step in and give your accurate findings).

Yes I agree the rear exhaust with the 180 degree header is not as "swoopy" and may not fit as nice in some boats as the front exhaust motors, but I think the performance will make-up for it.

Glenn

Glenn:

Do you have the rod length?

Marty 1.475

 

[aaron alberico]

i noticed no one wants to answer the pipe question. h34r: h34r: h34r:

Sorry, what pipe question are you referring to?

regards Aaron

 

[HendricX]

1.475

As it's an European engine .. I seriously doubt that.

37,50mm or arround 1.4764" would be the answer.

 

[aaron alberico]

1.475

As it's an European engine .. I seriously doubt that.

37,50mm or arround 1.4764" would be the answer.

Yes, sorry mistype it is 1.476.

can i ask why you say its an European engine?

regards Aaron

 

[RodneyPierce]

Aaron, Italy is part of southern Europe, yes?

 

[dwilfong]

What is the OD of the sleeve? and the piston pin size?

David

 

[Ian Inverarity]

1.475

As it's an European engine .. I seriously doubt that.

37,50mm or arround 1.4764" would be the answer.

Yes, sorry mistype it is 1.476.

can i ask why you say its an European engine?

regards Aaron

Aaron, as a European engine, nominal dimensions are likely to be metric, so the rod length is most likely to be a nice metric length.

 

[Martin Hamilton]

Can i ask what type of bushing is best in the strut at these high rpm, lead teflon or the floating brass tube (Speed master type. I was concered that the lead teflons would wear quickly. Your thoughts & experiences on strut bushings at these high rpm. Thanks in advance Martin.

 

[shoboat]

Martin,

We have ball bearings in our custom struts.

The brass bushing works well, but ball bearings have less drag.

A lot of different ways to harness the power and RPM of our little

motors.

Happy New Year Everyone,

Mark Sholund

 

[Martin Hamilton]

Hi Mark,yes i use ball bearings in my mini hydros 3mm id x 7mm od ball bearings with .048" wire drive that i custom make. What sort of size ball bearings do you use in the 21 size boats as i will be using something like a 3/16" stub & .150" flex. Everything size wise i custom make so can go with whatever size wise. Cant use a wire though on the 21 hydro as its electric & the motor is towards the rear so shaft angles ar not suitable for wire on this one. The only reason i thought of not using ball bearings in this strut was the o/d of the ball bearings would be that much bigger on the o/d making the strut quite a large diameter, or do you not worry to much about the strut o/d being larger. Regards Martin.

 

[Ian Inverarity]

Hi Mark,yes i use ball bearings in my mini hydros 3mm id x 7mm od ball bearings with .048" wire drive that i custom make. What sort of size ball bearings do you use in the 21 size boats as i will be using something like a 3/16" stub & .150" flex. Everything size wise i custom make so can go with whatever size wise. Cant use a wire though on the 21 hydro as its electric & the motor is towards the rear so shaft angles ar not suitable for wire on this one. The only reason i thought of not using ball bearings in this strut was the o/d of the ball bearings would be that much bigger on the o/d making the strut quite a large diameter, or do you not worry to much about the strut o/d being larger. Regards Martin.

Martin, I have recently been using 5/16 OD bearings with a 3/16 ID on a custom made strut on a JAE21, so far they have been used regularly for about 4 months and are going fine. I double up with the bearings at the prop shaft end.

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Martin,yes I use the 5/16 X 3/16 ball bearings in my .21 as well as this .45 boat.

Glenn

 

[Martin Hamilton]

Many thanks for all replys, with the 3/16" x 5/16" ball bearings do you go for something like Boca good quality bearings or just some of the many unbranded cheap ones that are around & change them more regular if nesscesary. Martin.

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Many thanks for all replys, with the 3/16" x 5/16" ball bearings do you go for something like Boca good quality bearings or just some of the many unbranded cheap ones that are around & change them more regular if nesscesary. Martin.

Martin, I use the Boca economy bearings. They last pretty good.

Glenn

 

[RodneyPierce]

are you guys using the flanged or un flanged bearings?