Nitro boat painting ??

[piper_chuck]

The guy didnt prep it wright!! thats why the paint came off of your boat!!! I'd aways sand my boats with 400 then seal it then paint them with no proublems.Most shop are using urothanes paints and Also like Don ferret said about the holes too prep them wright! Epoxys I use on car frames and wheel wells because of rocks&stones hits. Tampa mix a half of pint of sprayable paint,that should cover your boat if your using an HVLP gravityfeed gun. piper chuck,The automotive paints are more safer to use now these days compaired to the paints in the 60-80's. The worst paints are the emorrons and epoxys that has more harser cemicals then urothanes.

MH, the information I posted was about paints from TODAY, not the "60-80's". I have no reason to study the hazards of 20-40 year old paints and I'm not even going to discuss Imron. As far as epoxies versus urethanes, from what I've seen from studying Klass Kote, an epoxy, versus several urethanes, such as PPG Omni and Concept, the hazards of Klass Kote are way lower. I got this from reading the MSDS from various paints and then doing additional reading on them and their hazards. Have you done such research, or are you just going off anecdotal shop talk? The average R/C hobby person is just not equipped to safely use auto paint.

BTW, Don Ferrette (I can overlook your usual spelling, but if you're going to mention someone, you should give them enough respect to spell their name right and not turn them into a small rodent) is NOT AN AVERAGE HOBBY PERSON.

 

[misshydro]

The guy didnt prep it wright!! thats why the paint came off of your boat!!! I'd aways sand my boats with 400 then seal it then paint them with no proublems.Most shop are using urothanes paints and Also like Don ferret said about the holes too prep them wright! Epoxys I use on car frames and wheel wells because of rocks&stones hits. Tampa mix a half of pint of sprayable paint,that should cover your boat if your using an HVLP gravityfeed gun. piper chuck,The automotive paints are more safer to use now these days compaired to the paints in the 60-80's. The worst paints are the emorrons and epoxys that has more harser cemicals then urothanes.

MH, the information I posted was about paints from TODAY, not the "60-80's". I have no reason to study the hazards of 20-40 year old paints and I'm not even going to discuss Imron. As far as epoxies versus urethanes, from what I've seen from studying Klass Kote, an epoxy, versus several urethanes, such as PPG Omni and Concept, the hazards of Klass Kote are way lower. I got this from reading the MSDS from various paints and then doing additional reading on them and their hazards. Have you done such research, or are you just going off anecdotal shop talk? The average R/C hobby person is just not equipped to safely use auto paint.

BTW, Don Ferrette (I can overlook your usual spelling, but if you're going to mention someone, you should give them enough respect to spell their name right and not turn them into a small rodent) is NOT AN AVERAGE HOBBY PERSON.

OMG Chuck!!! what equipment are you talking about?? you keep saying it. Oh 39.00 for a quart of yellow!!!! Man I can get that for 27.00 for a quart of yellow. Come on there paints are alittle pricey. plus add shipping&other charges and Man the B side/epoxy hardner/31.00. with most urothanes they have a mixing ratio of 4 parts clear to 1 part headner and 1 part reducer. Compare to Klass kote one to one ratio ,that alot of hardner usage at 31.00 apop! The Crossfire system that NAPA sells the hardner is 27.00 for a quart, the Highperformance clear is 18.00 a quart. Reducer is 8.00 a quart. KlassKote clears for a quart is 31.00plus the B side hardner 31.00 a quart plus 10.00 for reducer,that 72.00 you have in the clear plus the shipping charges!!! Compared to urothanes 18.00 quart of clear 27.00 for hardner,but you only need to buy a 1/2 pint to catized a quart of clear at 8.00,plus 10.00 of reducer=36.00. A quart of hardner 27.00 will catlize a gallon of clear.Plus they only have certian colors, I dont see if they have any metalic paints??? With automotive you have a much larger color selection to chose from. Oh KlassKote is carring urothanes to now,But I bet there costly too. Like Is said before,some of you have more money to burn. With todays high prices I like to save my money then to burn it. Piper chuck I'd recorrected Don Ferrette name before you'd posted your post and I'd notice I'd spelled it wrong.

 

[piper_chuck]

The guy didnt prep it wright!! thats why the paint came off of your boat!!! I'd aways sand my boats with 400 then seal it then paint them with no proublems.Most shop are using urothanes paints and Also like Don ferret said about the holes too prep them wright! Epoxys I use on car frames and wheel wells because of rocks&stones hits. Tampa mix a half of pint of sprayable paint,that should cover your boat if your using an HVLP gravityfeed gun. piper chuck,The automotive paints are more safer to use now these days compaired to the paints in the 60-80's. The worst paints are the emorrons and epoxys that has more harser cemicals then urothanes.

MH, the information I posted was about paints from TODAY, not the "60-80's". I have no reason to study the hazards of 20-40 year old paints and I'm not even going to discuss Imron. As far as epoxies versus urethanes, from what I've seen from studying Klass Kote, an epoxy, versus several urethanes, such as PPG Omni and Concept, the hazards of Klass Kote are way lower. I got this from reading the MSDS from various paints and then doing additional reading on them and their hazards. Have you done such research, or are you just going off anecdotal shop talk? The average R/C hobby person is just not equipped to safely use auto paint.

BTW, Don Ferrette (I can overlook your usual spelling, but if you're going to mention someone, you should give them enough respect to spell their name right and not turn them into a small rodent) is NOT AN AVERAGE HOBBY PERSON.

OMG Chuck!!! what equipment are you talking about?? you keep saying it. Oh 39.00 for a quart of yellow!!!! Man I can get that for 27.00 for a quart of yellow. Come on there paints are alittle pricey. plus add shipping&other charges and Man the B side/epoxy hardner/31.00. with most urothanes they have a mixing ratio of 4 parts clear to 1 part headner and 1 part reducer. Compare to Klass kote one to one ratio ,that alot of hardner usage at 31.00 apop! The Crossfire system that NAPA sells the hardner is 27.00 for a quart, the Highperformance clear is 18.00 a quart. Reducer is 8.00 a quart. KlassKote clears for a quart is 31.00plus the B side hardner 31.00 a quart plus 10.00 for reducer,that 72.00 you have in the clear plus the shipping charges!!! Compared to urothanes 18.00 quart of clear 27.00 for hardner,but you only need to buy a 1/2 pint to catized a quart of clear at 8.00,plus 10.00 of reducer=36.00. A quart of hardner 27.00 will catlize a gallon of clear.Plus they only have certian colors, I dont see if they have any metalic paints??? With automotive you have a much larger color selection to chose from. Oh KlassKote is carring urothanes to now,But I bet there costly too. Like Is said before,some of you have more money to burn. With todays high prices I like to save my money then to burn it. Piper chuck I'd recorrected Don Ferrette name before you'd posted your post and I'd notice I'd spelled it wrong.

OMG MH, can you not read or figure things out? SAFETY equipment is one biggie. Knowledge of how to safely handle the paints is another. Proper facilities for spraying the paint is yet another. As far as your lengthy discourse on prices, it's already been noted that Klass Kote is more expensive and offers fewer color choices. Why do you keep ranting about things that have already been agreed to? The point I have made, several times now, but that you seem to keep missing is that Klass Kote is LESS HAZARDOUS and as such, perhaps better suited to hobby usage. Get it?

 

[Ed.R]

Has anbody tried Klasskote clear over auto air water paints ? just wondering if klasskote clear would be safe to use over auto air

 

[Don Ferrette]

Piper & Miss Hydro, you two chill out and play nice before I give you both a time out.

 

[dannyual767]

I'm going to jump in here with my constant warning about epoxy CLEAR: this stuff with put a yellowish tint over your nice, bright light colors! It may not affect dark colors but you will notice a yellowish tint over white and other light colors. If you keep the epoxy clear coat real thin, then you'll minimize this effect. The yellowish tint will make your paint job look "old."

On the other hand, I think that epoxy clear coat is great for sealing and maybe other things, however, I just don't recommend it for clearcoating over light, bright colors. I ruined a perfectly good paint job by using the old HobbyPoxy clear coat a number of years ago.

A decent automotive urethane clear coat will be clear as water. Its all I'll use for clearcoating now .

 

[Ray Sametz]

Piper & Miss Hydro, you two chill out and play nice before I give you both a time out.

If I had the time, I'd join in and maybe deserve a time out also. But I'm tooooooo busy painting my boat. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Wesleys Custom RC]

Hay, I'm moving to Ohio where high performance clear is $18. a quart and 1/8 scale boat decals are $14. a set.

 

[dave roach]

I have been using PPG 2021 clear for 7 years now and it doesn't yellow like the cheap clear that you pay 15.00 and can.I just got new to day and it's a three part and the bill was $117.00 and I can paint 10-12 boats from one quart of clear.so for $11.00a boat thats not bad.

Dave Roach

 

[Glenn Gates]

The guy didnt prep it wright!! thats why the paint came off of your boat!!! I'd aways sand my boats with 400 then seal it then paint them with no proublems.Most shop are using urothanes paints and Also like Don ferret said about the holes too prep them wright! Epoxys I use on car frames and wheel wells because of rocks&stones hits. Tampa mix a half of pint of sprayable paint,that should cover your boat if your using an HVLP gravityfeed gun. piper chuck,The automotive paints are more safer to use now these days compaired to the paints in the 60-80's. The worst paints are the emorrons and epoxys that has more harser cemicals then urothanes.

MH, the information I posted was about paints from TODAY, not the "60-80's". I have no reason to study the hazards of 20-40 year old paints and I'm not even going to discuss Imron. As far as epoxies versus urethanes, from what I've seen from studying Klass Kote, an epoxy, versus several urethanes, such as PPG Omni and Concept, the hazards of Klass Kote are way lower. I got this from reading the MSDS from various paints and then doing additional reading on them and their hazards. Have you done such research, or are you just going off anecdotal shop talk? The average R/C hobby person is just not equipped to safely use auto paint.

BTW, Don Ferrette (I can overlook your usual spelling, but if you're going to mention someone, you should give them enough respect to spell their name right and not turn them into a small rodent) is NOT AN AVERAGE HOBBY PERSON.

OMG Chuck!!! what equipment are you talking about?? you keep saying it. Oh 39.00 for a quart of yellow!!!! Man I can get that for 27.00 for a quart of yellow. Come on there paints are alittle pricey. plus add shipping&other charges and Man the B side/epoxy hardner/31.00. with most urothanes they have a mixing ratio of 4 parts clear to 1 part headner and 1 part reducer. Compare to Klass kote one to one ratio ,that alot of hardner usage at 31.00 apop! The Crossfire system that NAPA sells the hardner is 27.00 for a quart, the Highperformance clear is 18.00 a quart. Reducer is 8.00 a quart. KlassKote clears for a quart is 31.00plus the B side hardner 31.00 a quart plus 10.00 for reducer,that 72.00 you have in the clear plus the shipping charges!!! Compared to urothanes 18.00 quart of clear 27.00 for hardner,but you only need to buy a 1/2 pint to catized a quart of clear at 8.00,plus 10.00 of reducer=36.00. A quart of hardner 27.00 will catlize a gallon of clear.Plus they only have certian colors, I dont see if they have any metalic paints??? With automotive you have a much larger color selection to chose from. Oh KlassKote is carring urothanes to now,But I bet there costly too. Like Is said before,some of you have more money to burn. With todays high prices I like to save my money then to burn it. Piper chuck I'd recorrected Don Ferrette name before you'd posted your post and I'd notice I'd spelled it wrong.

OMG MH, can you not read or figure things out? SAFETY equipment is one biggie. Knowledge of how to safely handle the paints is another. Proper facilities for spraying the paint is yet another. As far as your lengthy discourse on prices, it's already been noted that Klass Kote is more expensive and offers fewer color choices. Why do you keep ranting about things that have already been agreed to? The point I have made, several times now, but that you seem to keep missing is that Klass Kote is LESS HAZARDOUS and as such, perhaps better suited to hobby usage. Get it?

Screw the price, We only get one pair of lungs. If any of you don't know what a MSDS is it's a material saftey data sheet. It warns of any health hazards. Anything that uses a catlyst to harden the paint will also harden your lungs. Pay someone that has the proper equipment to paint it for you. Glenn

 

[steve wood]

the problem with all these prices for quarts, is that where i live, in the armpit of the nation, i have to buy clear by the gallon. iv'e tried to buy quarts, and they won't sell em, and i'm not driving 70 miles just to buy a quart of paint. and klasscote works very well and paints very well. it's my only choice after using auto paint, and having a boat painted by one of the most sought after painters on this forum, and having it fail. and it was "prepped " right

 

[Scott R Van Slooten]

emron works great and is nytro proof

 

[misshydro]

If you use a good paint resporator.they dont cost big bucks. you need to use a resporator with all paint even the KlassKote that has B catlyst. You need to have your boat painted with a catlized paint or the gas&nitro will attack your paint job and it will be ruined. Dave Roach,my crossfire clear doesnt yellow any of my colors,its the pure clear clear that I use. For equipment for doing boats? you need is a 20 gal compresser a HVLP gravityfeed spray gun a good paint resporator and a box fan and a one car garage or bigger to do a boat. The ones who's complaining about Harards of paints,question for you?? Do you smoke or drink????If so you messing up your lungs&liver already. I paint in a large poll garage with a big fan that will suckout the fumes and overspay out the door because I do this for aliving. But you do see the backyard joes painting cars&trucks in there one car garages done that before too. Like I will stress before, if you use a good paint resporator your not going to kill your lungs. The reason why you dont see to many old timers painters is because the paints they where using where very hazardous, like laqucers=lead imorrons=super toxic plus they didnt use any or didnt have paint resporator that we have today.

 

[Ed.R]

If you use a good paint resporator.they dont cost big bucks. you need to use a resporator with all paint even the KlassKote that has B catlyst. You need to have your boat painted with a catlized paint or the gas&nitro will attack your paint job and it will be ruined. Dave Roach,my crossfire clear doesnt yellow any of my colors,its the pure clear clear that I use. For equipment for doing boats? you need is a 20 gal compresser a HVLP gravityfeed spray gun a good paint resporator and a box fan and a one car garage or bigger to do a boat. The ones who's complaining about Harards of paints,question for you?? Do you smoke or drink????If so you messing up your lungs&liver already. I paint in a large poll garage with a big fan that will suckout the fumes and overspay out the door because I do this for aliving. But you do see the backyard joes painting cars&trucks in there one car garages done that before too. Like I will stress before, if you use a good paint resporator your not going to kill your lungs. The reason why you dont see to many old timers painters is because the paints they where using where very hazardous, like laqucers=lead imorrons=super toxic plus they didnt use any or didnt have paint resporator that we have today.

How about the environment ? If your doing cars thats alot of paint fumes your putting out in the air . A professional painter with out a paint booth ? I think thats the equipment they might be referring to .

 

[Ray Sametz]

If you use a good paint resporator.they dont cost big bucks. you need to use a resporator with all paint even the KlassKote that has B catlyst. You need to have your boat painted with a catlized paint or the gas&nitro will attack your paint job and it will be ruined. Dave Roach,my crossfire clear doesnt yellow any of my colors,its the pure clear clear that I use. For equipment for doing boats? you need is a 20 gal compresser a HVLP gravityfeed spray gun a good paint resporator and a box fan and a one car garage or bigger to do a boat. The ones who's complaining about Harards of paints,question for you?? Do you smoke or drink????If so you messing up your lungs&liver already. I paint in a large poll garage with a big fan that will suckout the fumes and overspay out the door because I do this for aliving. But you do see the backyard joes painting cars&trucks in there one car garages done that before too. Like I will stress before, if you use a good paint resporator your not going to kill your lungs. The reason why you dont see to many old timers painters is because the paints they where using where very hazardous, like laqucers=lead imorrons=super toxic plus they didnt use any or didnt have paint resporator that we have today.

So if I enjoy a cigar and have a cocktail once in a while I'm dead already and don't need a respirator. :blink: :blink: Do you walk on water too retrieve your dead boats. <_< <_<

 

[misshydro]

I'm out in the country. If you dont paint much,like two to five boats a year. That should be to much plus using an HVLP spray guns helps alot. Cuts the overspray in half=less fumes= saves you alot in paint&materials. Been using gravity feed guns since 90,thats when the HVLP's where first comming out.I got my first in 98 and still have my HVLP gravity feed gun. An Accuspray Issac Newton,love it to death. I'd tried all other guns and didnt care for them. Old boss that I'd worked for had a sata jet gun,kind of like it,but my gun out performed it.

 

[piper_chuck]

If you use a good paint resporator.they dont cost big bucks. you need to use a resporator with all paint even the KlassKote that has B catlyst. You need to have your boat painted with a catlized paint or the gas&nitro will attack your paint job and it will be ruined. Dave Roach,my crossfire clear doesnt yellow any of my colors,its the pure clear clear that I use. For equipment for doing boats? you need is a 20 gal compresser a HVLP gravityfeed spray gun a good paint resporator and a box fan and a one car garage or bigger to do a boat. The ones who's complaining about Harards of paints,question for you?? Do you smoke or drink????If so you messing up your lungs&liver already. I paint in a large poll garage with a big fan that will suckout the fumes and overspay out the door because I do this for aliving. But you do see the backyard joes painting cars&trucks in there one car garages done that before too. Like I will stress before, if you use a good paint resporator your not going to kill your lungs. The reason why you dont see to many old timers painters is because the paints they where using where very hazardous, like laqucers=lead imorrons=super toxic plus they didnt use any or didnt have paint resporator that we have today.

It's as I suspected. In your list of safety equipment you've shown that you are not following the recommendations of the paint manufacturers and safety agencies. I'm not going to bother pointing out the areas where you are deficient because I doubt you would listen. I'm amazed that someone who does this for a living wouldn't know the requirements. If you want to ignore the safety protocols of the paint, so be it, but you're doing a disservice to fellow boaters by trying to tell them about safety when it's obvious you either don't know or don't follow the necessary protocols. Personally, I have children and I plan to see them reach adulthood. Don, don't worry, I've said my piece and I'm done with this thread.

 

[tmunn]

I it possible to do all the prep work, prime and paint with a good spray bomb like plastikote following their directions then lightly sand the paint so the primer will adhere and then have a paint shop "clear" it .Providing the clear did not react with paint.

I am pretty good with a spray bomb...

Any of you guys know a single stage paint that is available in Canada.I will check it out next week.

Gary i will check out the single stage ppg i am pretty sure that is available in my area.

Terry

 

[piper_chuck]

I it possible to do all the prep work, prime and paint with a good spray bomb like plastikote following their directions then lightly sand the paint so the primer will adhere and then have a paint shop "clear" it .Providing the clear did not react with paint.
I am pretty good with a spray bomb...

Any of you guys know a single stage paint that is available in Canada.I will check it out next week.

Gary i will check out the single stage ppg i am pretty sure that is available in my area.

Terry

If you're going to have the paint shop do some of the paint, clear for example, it's best for them to do all of it, or to at least confirm with them that what you used is compatible as a base coat. Auto paints can be particular about what's under them. Use the wrong stuff and you may end up with a mess. They can also be particular about the length of time between layers and what needs to be done if you are outside the window. It's not a good idea to use a non-fuelproof base coat and then a fuel proof clear. The reason is if any of the fuel finds its way under the clear, through a chip or crack for example, the paint can start lifting.

Unless you're going to apply graphics that you want to protect, you really don't need a clear coat. The PPG Omni MAE that I think I mentioned earlier is definitely fuel proof without a clear coat. From what I remember, PPG Concept also has a single stage available. There are many other two part single stage paints out there that would be nitro proof and plenty glossy, resulting in a great finish if applied by someone with the right tools and the knowledge of how to use them...

 

[M@MRacing]

other option wrap the boat looks rally nice and not much money Robert