New Miss Vegas RTR Owner

[f41stryker]

I too understand they carry more speed (3 blade), never ran one yet. Looking forward to running my boat this weekend!

 

[Sean Bowf]

Any advantage to the three blade? Would I have to run the prop depth a little shallower than the Y535?

I have heard the three blades help keep the speed better in the corners?

Thanks!

I still run a two blade prop, and for the most part am faster than the guys running three blade props in the mod RTR class. GPSed at 42.6 MPH Sunday with a stock hull.

I agree though, that the three blade does carry more speed through the corners. The minimal testing I did with three blade props left me disappointed. Maybe some day I will go back and try to figure them out...

Sean

 

[f41stryker]

was this with the stock Aquacraft .18 engine @42mph???

 

[KarlKemnitz]

Thanks Sean....I think I'll stay with the two blade for now. Its running great, so I won't go messing with a good thing!

 

[Sean Bowf]

was this with the stock Aquacraft .18 engine @42mph???

OS CVRM .18.

It probably has 5 or more gallons through it now. Changed the bearings in it once...other than that, it has been a good engine.

About the best we have seen with a stock boat (AQ .18, wing on, nothing done to the hull, stock muffler and a Y535) is a little over 30 MPH.

Sean

 

[M@MRacing]

My wife is running the supervee i put a 440/3 blade on it that boat loves it.

 

[MattHench]

when i was runnin my tinker toy a M440 did the best out of most, what class do you run in, reason i ask is a cooper quiet pipe will make a huge differeance, and movin everything in the front of the hull will help ya to !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[f41stryker]

I'm not running in any class right now, just for sport. I picked up a used Octura M435/3 blade for mine, awaiting it in the mail now. I'm gonna have to check into those engines, I'd like to get it up over 40 mph to keep it interesting.

 

[f41stryker]

was this with the stock Aquacraft .18 engine @42mph???

OS CVRM .18.

It probably has 5 or more gallons through it now. Changed the bearings in it once...other than that, it has been a good engine.

About the best we have seen with a stock boat (AQ .18, wing on, nothing done to the hull, stock muffler and a Y535) is a little over 30 MPH.

Sean

Is that a stock OS CVRM 18? I saw an OS CVRM 18 on Rcgroups for sale and it looks just like the stock Aquacraft engine, are the internals different, the CVR 18 I saw had a water-cooled head. Or are you using the offroad engine with the Aquacraft watercooled head on it?

 

[Sean Bowf]

Is that a stock OS CVRM 18? I saw an OS CVRM 18 on Rcgroups for sale and it looks just like the stock Aquacraft engine, are the internals different, the CVR 18 I saw had a water-cooled head. Or are you using the offroad engine with the Aquacraft watercooled head on it?

Yes, it is stock. The "M" in CVRM stands for marine. So if it is a CVRM, it should have a water cooled head on it from the factory. I have purchased a CVR and put a marine head on it for a budy though. From what I can tell, all the internal parts are the same between the CVR and CVRM.

Sean

 

[f41stryker]

is that a pretty easy swap as far as collet/mounting goes?

 

[Sean Bowf]

is that a pretty easy swap as far as collet/mounting goes?

Mounting flanges on both engines have the same screw spacing (direct swap). I use an octura collet on it, and swapped the flywheel for an SV27 flywheel. The SV27 flywheel only had a hole in one side, so I drilled it all the way through to balance it.

I have had good luck with a MACS .21 high nitro pipe, but lately I have been running one of the AB pipes because it is muffled. I still use the stock header.

Sean

 

[f41stryker]

Good stuff to know, I don't know whether to go all out on my Miss Vegas or just direct funds towards a used 1/8 scale... I'm leaning towards the 1/8 scale.

 

[Ronnie Lambert]

We have three different Vegas boats doing low to mid 40's on the GPS with stock Aqua .18's. ( does have the head shim removed) We have found that it is all about the set-up on the boat. We're running a GR 36 x 55 two blade prop, just sharpened and 45% nitro. The turn fin is a big area to keep up with. We couldn't get much speed with the GR turn fin... too big and too much drag. You can experiment with cutting it down from the back edge if you already have one. My stock turn fin sharpened well and lined up, performed much better than the GR fin. Just make sure that it is in line with the sponsons. This is critical. If it is off, it causes drag and then you have to use trim in the rudder to get the boat to track straight, which causes more drag.

Also, the strut needt to be set about 1/2" from the bottom of the hull to the top of the strut, with about 1 degree of positive. I set my boat on three blocks of the same size on a flat table. One under each sponson and one under the strut. This makes it very easy to set the strut. I set mine with about 1/32 of gap between the back of the strut and my block. This will be a good starting point. You should experiment with different heights to see how it affects the boat. Too high and the boat revs and slows, too low and it loses revs and slows. Try to keep the strut angle close to the same, just change heights. You can also watch the roost. High roost is bad, too much prop out of the water.

 

[f41stryker]

Thanks for the info. 40+ stock is great. I'll pull the head shim out post breakin. I'm gonna have to work on the setup then.

 

[Chad Cutsforth]

Just make sure that it is in line with the sponsons. This is critical. If it is off, it causes drag and then you have to use trim in the rudder to get the boat to track straight, which causes more drag.

Can you explain more on what you mean by inline with the sponcon. Do you mean follow the angle from the bottom to the top? Or inline with the back outside edge or the sponcon.

Thanks

Chad

 

[camaroboy383]

Just make sure that it is in line with the sponsons. This is critical. If it is off, it causes drag and then you have to use trim in the rudder to get the boat to track straight, which causes more drag.

Can you explain more on what you mean by inline with the sponcon. Do you mean follow the angle from the bottom to the top? Or inline with the back outside edge or the sponcon.

Thanks

Chad

Chad, he is refering to the turn fin being dead ahead straight, so in line with the inside edge of the sponson from front to back..

If its not dead straight it is working like a rudder (turning the front of the boat) intern the average guy adds rudder trim to correct the turning of the boat.. Now you have two sources of tremendous drag..

Swipe a sink full of water with a knife on edge and flat sideways,, which went through the water easier??

Key to speed is set up in any hull.

Alden

 

[Sean Bowf]

Mid 40s with a 2.17 pitch prop?? You have to have that stock engine turning close to 30K RPM for that...27373 from what I can figure...

Sean

 

[f41stryker]

I put another 3 tanks of fuel through it today. I haven't touched anything yet as far as strut. I think my next upgrade will be that turn fin, is the GR fin the best to go with? I know there are a couple of places selling turn fins for them.

Will adjusting my strut help with the fact that my boat slows greatly in the straightaway versus turns? I picked up an Octura 3-blade prop, anxious to try that on there too!

 

[byron westman]

my boat seems to slow in the corners ,I'm still in break in though . I have 5 tanks on it now . I hope when it is leaned out more it will speed up . what else would cause it to slow in the turns?