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Check it out at http://www.leecraftracing.com
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It has a great attitude in the one pic on some perdy bumpy water, I'm on the hunt for a good Sport 20.I think you'll find it has more interior room than you'll know what to do with As for taping it down, you'll need a lot of it.
https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage...m=783&pos=0
The hatch fits tight to the sponsons up front and then wraps around the front of the center section. My PT boat was a pain to tape in it's stock configuration, this will be a bit more difficult.Snowman,
I didn't see anything unusual. What did you see that warants strange mounting points?
Ray
So... if you Sport 21 boat designers/suppliers are paying attention... if you want to supply to the FE community, which is hungry for nice modern style hulls like this one, you'll be selling more boats if you could incorporate some of these ideas to seal things into your design... On this hull, something as simply as designing the hatch so that the nose piece was part of the base hull, and the hatch opening was all on the top where it could be easily taped down would do the trick... or a secondary hatch system, etc... We'll take it from there!My plan is to use the hatch just as intended, as a cover. Inside will be what amounts to a radio box that runs the full length of the hull containing all the electric bits (think of a rigger tub inside the hull). That will get taped down and the hatch will use cowl locks to hold it in place over it. All the floatation will be outside the sealed compartment.
Hey Check out this new one i did the cowl with the tape down method in mind. This is a sport 40 but I may redo the SSP21 also.So... if you Sport 21 boat designers/suppliers are paying attention... if you want to supply to the FE community, which is hungry for nice modern style hulls like this one, you'll be selling more boats if you could incorporate some of these ideas to seal things into your design... On this hull, something as simply as designing the hatch so that the nose piece was part of the base hull, and the hatch opening was all on the top where it could be easily taped down would do the trick... or a secondary hatch system, etc... We'll take it from there!My plan is to use the hatch just as intended, as a cover. Inside will be what amounts to a radio box that runs the full length of the hull containing all the electric bits (think of a rigger tub inside the hull). That will get taped down and the hatch will use cowl locks to hold it in place over it. All the floatation will be outside the sealed compartment.
Due to the nature of our equipment, we have to keep all of the water out, and there usually isn't enough room, nor tolerance for additional weight, to use things like radio boxes, etc... Making a good seal on the hatch cover is mandetory.
It appears that the Gallery database is down... I'm getting an SQL error when I click the link.... and your Gallery link from your profile says no pictures are found...Hey Check out this new one i did the cowl with the tape down method in mind. This is a sport 40 but I may redo the SSP21 also. https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage...=744&pos=13
Brian raced one Im not sure how he taped the cowl
The next time I see Alfred I take all the measurements and a picture of the layout.Phil, I'm pretty sure he's using a bottom engine mount on his hull. All the hardware was custom made by Roger Hooks Sr and the turn fin is from Mike Hughes.
The weight I believe is approximately 2lbs.
He did have two light layups being done. Won't know the weight on those until they arrive.
You know, I'm going to be busting my butt trying to get my scale ready for the Grand Prix race coming up in a few weeks.
I think it best to email Alfred directly [email protected] or call him: (510) 823-9668 to get a quick answer.
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