New Fire Fighter .12

[Rick Raffaelli]

It's a now discontinued Picco round port side exhaust .12. I get all my Octura stuff from G&G hobbies in Griffith IN. He orders me everything I need and usually has it in a week. Its a standard crank engine.

 

[Eric Perez]

Rick, I want that flywheel !!!

That thing is like the holy grail of flywheels! Do you have the Octura part no. for that bad boy? Just want to make sure I order the correct one.

What type of rigger do you have in the picture? Looks custom...

 

[Rick Raffaelli]

Eric,I searched my entire collection of header cards and catalogs for that part # with no luck. I know I saved it but where? If I remember correctly it was the only flywheel in the copy of my Octura catalog. Flywheel for .10 to .15 engines. I stumbled across it on a trip to Als hobby shop. Hav'nt seen one since. That boat is part firefighter,part wingin it. I'm a r/c junkie so I try to divide my time boatin,racing 1/8th scale buggies,and crashing perfectly good model aircraft.I'll probably get it done before the water softens up and I'll let you guys know how it runs.

 

[TomMoorehouse]

Tom, While constructing the FF12 I have taken over 100 Photos. I will wrap them up real nice for you so that you may offer them (If You'd like) for download.
Did the MikeP toilet paper epoxy coat last night. Looks fast just sitting still

I have even "invented" a new way of squaring up the booms. I will upload when I get home tonight.

Wood colored boats don't show up too well on bouy 4 so it's a pitty that the FF12 logos will not be visible on my boat after it's finished. Too bad there are no FF12 decals :unsure:

Where can I get the exact same boom material that is used for the FF12 (same dimensions too)? I've just come up with a way to solve some of the hardware problems that are plagging the .12 Rigger class...

sounds good with the photos.

decals.... well laser etched is free.... decals would make the kit more expensive :unsure:

lonestar balsa for the tubes

 

[Slideblues]

Lookin good Eric!!!! Nice work

 

[Eric Perez]

Here is the idea that I came up with to garantee that the spoons are square to the tubes and parallel to each other (which is no easy task)

I was lucky to find a flat piece of wood that was 11" wide (same as my inner spoon dimension) and just large enough to hold every thing together.

I made perpendicular line accross the board. I made sure that the booms where parallel to this line. This way I was able to "untweak" the spoons as the epoxy cured.

 

[Eric Perez]

This is just a reference shot with the booms at the correct position and height. So I can do some hardware layout work.

The bottom of the tub is roughly 3/4" from the board.

I have the fuller's next generation hydro 6-12 cell hardware sticking out the back. Notice how low it must be mounted on the transom to get the correct prop-depth.

 

[Eric Perez]

This shot pretty much tells the story that Tom was telling me. You can use the fullers std. 6-12 harware -but you've got to be willing to mount it low-rider style.

If you wanted to mount the L-Piece rudder arm that bolts on to the strut then you would have the rudder's quite low on the transom. I've done this before on my Nitro Trident Rigger and it works -Just looks funny.

For a more traditional look you really need the extra-long Fuller's cat strut. I think this is the standard one used on the Super Heavy-Duty Harware set 12-36 Cells (I think).

 

[Eric Perez]

I've got a lot of run time on this hardware set. Still runs great! This is the buisness end of my TRX 2.5 Powered Nitro Aggressor CAT 23.5" Hull

Note how low it is on the transom...

 

[Eric Perez]

Just finished drilling the booms in place. It was a pain in the rear to get everything lined up. I ended up making my own holes -Everytime my drill-bit got close to Tom'd pre-drilled hole it would get everything out of square, so I placed the bolts just outside the original locations.

The only bummer is that Tom's laser cut boom shims will not fit between my screws. It's really no big deal 1/32 ply scraps are easily found in the scrap bin...

The distance between the inside turn-fin spoon and the tub was 3-7/16 (With a 3-3/4 tub). Keep in mind that the spoons are not spaced evenly on the tub.

The sealed tub in the photo weighs in at close to 16oz.

 

[anthony marquart]

What did you seal with Eric?

 

[Eric Perez]

I used West System Epoxy 105 Resin w/ 206 Slow Hardener. This is "real" epoxy and it is not available at your average LHS. I bought mine at the local Marine Store. This epoxy is super-strong and sands easily.

The epoxy is brushed on and then you remove as much as possible with a few dozen paper towels. This seals the wood and also allows you to keep all those sharp edges that you've worked so hard to maintain as you build. Let the epoxy set overnight and lightly sand the boat. Repeat the epoxy-papertowel process again and you are done.

Anothny regarfing your Fantom .15 engine question you have bought an engine with SG or Traxxas IPS crank-shaft. You can cut a notch on the 5mm smooth portion and install a 5mm smooth bore flex-hex that will fit the cable that you are buying, probably .130 or .150 . You could also get a 7mm threaded flex-hex and cut off the 5mm smooth bore section from the crank. Either way will work.

*****

SUPER IMPORTANT BULLETIN:

If you have bought the std 6-12cell hyrdo harware from fullers it will not fit the FF12. The flex-shaft is too short... This is going to put a severe damper on the completion of my kit. It will probably take me a few weeks to get all the right parts... If you buy Flex-cable make sure there is atleast 15" of cable soldered to the end of your 3/16 stub-shaft. Most flex-shafts only have 12" of cable at the end.

******

 

[TimD]

Eric,

Most cables are sold by total length including the stub. Can you please give the total length required so that people know which one to get B) B) B)

Thanks for the tip!

Tim.

 

[TomMoorehouse]

*****

SUPER IMPORTANT BULLETIN:

If you have bought the std 6-12cell hyrdo harware from fullers it will not fit the FF12. The flex-shaft is too short... This is going to put a severe damper on the completion of my kit. It will probably take me a few weeks to get all the right parts... If you buy Flex-cable make sure there is atleast 15" of cable soldered to the end of your 3/16 stub-shaft. Most flex-shafts only have 12" of cable at the end.

******

It is.... BUMMER! I just bought one for another project!

 

[Ron Olson]

Tom, Call Gary Preusse. He just got another batch of flex cables in from Ed Hughey. His are 18".

Eric, from looking at you pictures it appears to me that the strut is hanging out way too far from the transom.

 

[Climate Models]

Eric, from looking at you pictures it appears to me that the strut is hanging out way too far from the transom

I dunno Ron. We did some experimenting a few years back by placing shorter and longer strut brackets on riggers. The further back they were, the better the boat seemed to be.

Of course I am sure it has an extreme, but Eric's set up looks good to me.

Of course if we all had another .12 rigger design (hint hint) to race against, perhaps you could dis-prove our findings. Oh well.....I guess the FF .12 will just have to go on being king of the hill for a bit longer.

Peter R.

www.climatemodels.com

 

[Don Templeton]

Well Ron, you can't accuse me of being too far out from the transom!

 

[Ron Olson]

Two different theories here, both interesting. On HH .12 #2 I want to try some things like putting the turn fin on the tub Euro style. Possibly less weight but for sure less stress on the right sponson.

 

[ClayGlover]

Just finished drilling the booms in place. It was a pain in the rear to get everything lined up. I ended up making my own holes -Everytime my drill-bit got close to Tom'd pre-drilled hole it would get everything out of square, so I placed the bolts just outside the original locations.

did you try to clamp the booms somehow and then a drill press? or freehand wingin'it? :huh: