New bonzi arrived

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Matt Davis

Active Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2022
Messages
38
My fountain 64 showed up and it's way bigger than I expected lol Fully build billet engine 300pum and some other tech goodies, can't wait for the weather to change and get it to the lake, first started in my pool yesterday and it screams !
 

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First start to in pool fired fine 5-6 times low idle stall but fired right up, took it to the lake rented a boat to give it a proper break in fired right up ran for 15 seconds and the base tune they said not to touch until a tank is ran through ran so rich it it flooded itself while running. The one tool I forgot was the **** spark plug wrench and couldn't get it running again 😫😮‍💨 pulled the plug when home flipped to drain and left plug out covered for a day covered with a shop rag to keep debris from entering. Just tried again in the back yard and I couldn't get to start up again, plug looks brand new has fuel starting to feel like a knobhead. I don't understand what's wrong I couldn't imagine the magneto to have gone bad from two mins of running. Is it possible to have a bad batch of plugs? Or flooding it at the lake rendered it useless? I don't understand why the stock wire seems to be fully plugged in but I can push a little harder and it goes in farther?should it be in as far as it goes or is there a certain depth on the wire itself ( stupid question I know but I'm new and I'm really REALLY trying , I've done an ass ton of research and don't understand what the issue is)
 
Being a new engine it could have sheared a flywheel key. If the flywheel wasn’t seated then it could have easily sheared the key and it’s not firing at the right time. You should at least remove the plug and ground it on the head and pull the starter and confirm you see spark first.
 
Being a new engine it could have sheared a flywheel key. If the flywheel wasn’t seated then it could have easily sheared the key and it’s not firing at the right time. You should at least remove the plug and ground it on the head and pull the starter and confirm you see spark first.
Worst case it did shear how much of a pain in the ass is that to fix?
 
This concerns me...obviously you didn't drive it around your pool, so how long and how much did it "scream" for?

Free reving a brand new motor with no load on it,,, is not a good idea...
2 mins while holding and slowly raising rpms to about 6.5k or 1/4 throttle and letting off with propeller load
 
Did you have cooling while doing this? You can overheat the motor and kill it that way. Does the motor seem to feel the same when you pull it over or has it tighten up? Easy to pull the head and check to see if you over heated it. 4 bolts and off she comes. When putting it back together make sure to get the ring lined up with the notch in piston. It will be on the intake side. If you have to force the piston into the head, you are doing it wrong.

I just read your earlier post.
To check plug, remove from head. Put plug wire back on. Take plug and lay it on top of the head so the fat metal part is touching the plug hole area. You want it to be able to see the end of the plug while you pull it over like you are starting it. Helps to be in a darker space. You will be able to see the spark jump the gap. If you do, plug should be good. Keep your finger away from the end of plug. Kind of shocking if you dont.

It is very easy to flood carb. When I am usually starting a boat, I put my finger in the carb hole and pull it over top dead center once. Check finger. If it is wet, then you can start it by just pulling the starter. If not repeat it again with one rotation until you see fuel on your finger.

Good carb settings for 1048 (300PUM standard carb) are 1 on high needle and 1.5 on the low needle. If you look at carb there is a H and L embossed on the carb body.

Dont take this the wrong way. You are running a mixed fuel I assume. It is not just pump gas. You have to add 8oz or so to fuel.
Hope this helps.
Mike
 
Did you have cooling while doing this? You can overheat the motor and kill it that way. Does the motor seem to feel the same when you pull it over or has it tighten up? Easy to pull the head and check to see if you over heated it. 4 bolts and off she comes. When putting it back together make sure to get the ring lined up with the notch in piston. It will be on the intake side. If you have to force the piston into the head, you are doing it wrong.

I just read your earlier post.
To check plug, remove from head. Put plug wire back on. Take plug and lay it on top of the head so the fat metal part is touching the plug hole area. You want it to be able to see the end of the plug while you pull it over like you are starting it. Helps to be in a darker space. You will be able to see the spark jump the gap. If you do, plug should be good. Keep your finger away from the end of plug. Kind of shocking if you dont.

It is very easy to flood carb. When I am usually starting a boat, I put my finger in the carb hole and pull it over top dead center once. Check finger. If it is wet, then you can start it by just pulling the starter. If not repeat it again with one rotation until you see fuel on your finger.

Good carb settings for 1048 (300PUM standard carb) are 1 on high needle and 1.5 on the low needle. If you look at carb there is a H and L embossed on the carb body.

Dont take this the wrong way. You are running a mixed fuel I assume. It is not just pump gas. You have to add 8oz or so to fuel.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Was in pool under load pumping water, has same compression and I didn't see spark on basic spark plug it came with I got 5 upgrade CMR sparkplugs for the toolbox and have amsoil pro saber 8 oz in tank, I'm assuming it's definitely the spark plug but it is a 1027 not a 1048 I was incorrect
 
Well good luck with the new plug. Hopefully that is it. Cheapest repair at least. The 1027 is supposed to be identical to the 257. So your needle settings should be 1 H and 2 L.
Mike
 
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