My latest video: Fiberglassing (how to)

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Greg, Do you use the denature alcohol in all the glueing you do. Like glue the wood pieces together.

 

[Greg Hahn]

Greg, Do you use the denature alcohol in all the glueing you do. Like glue the wood pieces together.

occationally I'll thin 30 minute to get it down into a corner or some special situation but jsut a touch of thinner to loosen it up a bit.

otherwise no I don't thin everything, just finshing resin.

gh

 

[Dan Kramer]

are you sanding each coat, or app after app then sanding once? some products require sanding, (amine blush) some dont.

great video,

thanks,

dan

 

[Risto Tenhivaara]

Great video. One thing what I would like to add is use latex gloves. Epoxy allergy is easy to get.

 

[Greg Hahn]

are you sanding each coat, or app after app then sanding once? some products require sanding, (amine blush) some dont.

great video,

thanks,

dan

Dan, sand in between each coat. means less sanding in the end and smoother finish

 

[Greg Hahn]

Great video. One thing what I would like to add is use latex gloves. Epoxy allergy is easy to get.

If you have experienced a problem in the past this would be a good idea but with my method you rarely get any on your hands.

thx'

g

 

[Tim Strange]

Greg, sorry about another question....How do you handle where you have an overlap of glass cloth such as on a flat surface top or bottom? Do you add the next piece while the first is still wet? Does it create a hump?

Thanks, Tim

 

[Greg Hahn]

Greg, sorry about another question....How do you handle where you have an overlap of glass cloth such as on a flat surface top or bottom? Do you add the next piece while the first is still wet? Does it create a hump?

Thanks, Tim

Tim,

yes just lay it over and overlap at least 1 inch so the hump will be spread out. after curing and it's ready to fill, I spread a think coat of bondo over the seam and sand it out, you'll never see it

 

[Grimracer]

I would like to touch on any Epoxy Allergy concerns.

 

Some people will never become allergic to epoxy and some will. I am one of the "some will".

There are two basic types of allergic reactions. One is skin irritation and one is repository. I have the repository allergy. (It can kill you)

 

Here is the skinny.. Be mindful, use your head, dont think it CAN NOT HAPPEN TO YOU. Polyimides are VERY NASTY (i.e. the stuff Greg used in the video).

 

Once you have this issue it NEVER gets better..it ONLY gets worse year after year.

 

MY allergy has RUNED my building hobby. I now have a fresh air hood that I use in my spray booth for all epoxy (Even JB weld) as well as painting. BUT.. this is not a great solution either. I am now going to have to wait to do my gluing outside with the fresh air system on. This means my summer racing, flying and rocket time will have to be my building time too.

 

If you want to get into “building and finishing” like the pros.. Do yourself a favor. INFORM yourself on this issue. Then make an “executive” decision on how you’re going to proceed.

 

The hood system I must now build with.. My other choice is to “not build”.. not a great option to me......

http://www.turbineproducts.com/fresh-air-respirators.html

 

Grim

 

[Hydro Junkie]

That does suck Grim. While I don't have that issue, I do know a lot about a supplied air hood. Part of my job is to fit people with respirators and, from time to time, one of three styles of hoods. They are big and cumbersome but they can and will keep the wearer alive. Almost all of the painters use them, those that don't use a full face cartridge type respirator. Just curious, where do you set up the air pump? I know you can't have it in the shop or it won't do you any good to wear it unless it's go some major filtration in the intake

 

[Grimracer]

I have 25' of air hose and the pump is in a different part of the shop (closed off room). You see I turn on the fresh air system and "hood up" after the spray booth is on (I have a walk in). Any fumes are drawn out the booth and never enter the other parts of the shop. BUT. I am so sensitive to this stuff once I turn off the booth I have to leave the shop. I cannot be in the same area as any part of the gluing took place. (any gassing off)



I cannot even walk my work out of the shop to "outside" after this point to let it gas off out there.

Im not trying to freak people out. I just want them to do their homework on this.

 

[Kez]

I have 25' of air hose and the pump is in a different part of the shop (closed off room). You see I turn on the fresh air system and "hood up" after the spray booth is on (I have a walk in). Any fumes are drawn out the booth and never enter the other parts of the shop. BUT. I am so sensitive to this stuff once I turn off the booth I have to leave the shop. I cannot be in the same area as any part of the gluing took place. (any gassing off)

I cannot even walk my work out of the shop to "outside" after this point to let it gas off out there.

Im not trying to freak people out. I just want them to do their homework on this.

Is the uncured resin the problem? Will sanding or handling cured glue be a problem as well? I always wear a dust mask while sanding.

 

[Grimracer]

IF.. the epoxy is cured its not a problem.. BUT.. if its in process DO NOT SAND IT without proper protection. This stuff will get into your lungs AND THEN CURE. BAD NEWS!

But.. I can tell you even when sanding Balsa, ply or primer. use safety equipment.

To be safe.. READ THE cure times on the epoxy and heed that info.

Grim

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

On the subject of Epoxy. I got some Z-poxy 30 minute formula. It's extremely thick and very hard to use when I mix the resin and hardener. Can I use denatured alcohol to help the consistency out. Will it effect the the glue strength?

 

[Grimracer]

The issue with a laminating epoxy is it can have a wax style substrate to it. Truth is you don’t want to use it for finish work. You want a finishing epoxy OR epoxy that is capable of both.

West

Systems

Something like that.

Grim

 

[Greg Hahn]

On the subject of Epoxy. I got some Z-poxy 30 minute formula. It's extremely thick and very hard to use when I mix the resin and hardener. Can I use denatured alcohol to help the consistency out. Will it effect the the glue strength?

Sam,

yes thinning 30 minute will probably degrade the strength a bit but can't tell you how much? I can tell you that 5 or 10 seconds in the microwave will loosen both resin and hardener up enough to make them thin. the only issue with microwave it cuts the pot life from 15 minutes to 10 minutes.

 

[Jerry Betke]

Grim, you are absolutely correct about proper ventilation with epoxy during the cure time. Since it is almost odorless most of us give it little consideration. Most of us do not have the luxury of a large workshop area with ventilation fans to remove the fumes. As my workshop is a totally enclosed area in the basement, it is a must that I open a window and use a fan to vent the area when the epoxy is curing. I try to plan the application time of the epoxy so that I can be out of the area while it is curing. When doing large projects it would be advisable to wear a good painters mask with chemical filters while applying the epoxy. I also found out that nitrile or latex gloves are great for preventing epoxy from coming into contact with your hands. Should you not like wearing gloves for protection, I found that Fast Orange hand cleaner removes uncured epoxy from your skin without using chemicals. If you think that epoxy is bad just keep breathing in the CA fumes and see what the results will be. Also add cedar to the woods that you should not inhale the dust from. For your health I recommend the two "V's", ventilation and vacuuming.

 

[David Bryant]

On the subject of Epoxy. I got some Z-poxy 30 minute formula. It's extremely thick and very hard to use when I mix the resin and hardener. Can I use denatured alcohol to help the consistency out. Will it effect the the glue strength?

Sam,

yes thinning 30 minute will probably degrade the strength a bit but can't tell you how much? I can tell you that 5 or 10 seconds in the microwave will loosen both resin and hardener up enough to make them thin. the only issue with microwave it cuts the pot life from 15 minutes to 10 minutes.

To follow the same subject:

Do you recommend using denatured alcohol to thin epoxy/hardener to provide more optimal penetration into the grain for sealing wood hulls (not fibre-glassing)?

 

[David Bryant]

The issue with a laminating epoxy is it can have a wax style substrate to it. Truth is you don’t want to use it for finish work. You want a finishing epoxy OR epoxy that is capable of both- ie. West Systems, or something like that

I thought "finishing" type epoxy resins were known to have wax substrates (which yield better sanding properties), and that laminating epoxy resins did not (to not compromise strength)?

 

[Maryland FE]

Great video.....