MY DUMAS ATLAS BUILD

[mark couty]

Well, I have been asking questions and talking about my Dumas Atlas. Let me know what ya'll think so far. Mark.

 

[Dasboatman]

Hey Mark,

I see nothing to comment about. "....If you want your Boomerang to come back - - we'll first. you have to Throw it" - Ray Stevens.

Did you get the K&Bs back yet?? CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[mark couty]

Don't know what the heck happened I will try again with the pics, and yeah I got the motors back.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

My advice would be to fill the two factory holes in the engine bay walls unless you're actually going to put the radio box in that location. Next, cut lightening holes in the sponson insides forward of the last "compartment" all the way up to the bow blocks in the center section to cut weight in the rear of the boat. I know Dumas didn't include this in the instructions, nor did they tell you to cut lightening holes in the nontrip part of the cross frames. Lightening holes in all these locations will prevent water from getting trapped in these areas. Be sure to install some sort of drains in the boat so you can get water out as IT WILL GET INSIDE THE BOAT!!!!!!!!!!!! I've included a picture of one of my boats so you can see what I'm talking about.

One other area I would work on is the cross frames in the sponsons. You can make the lightening holes there larger as well. I know you're dealing with the factory supplied door skin, so if you choose not to, I understand that as well

 

[Bill Gibson]

Mark, thats lookin REALLL good!

 

[mark couty]

Thanks. HJ and Bill. I am not sure what to try as far as radio boxes. I have been thinking about the CG in the boat. I figure to balance it at 3/4 to 1 inch behind the sponson, would that be a good figure for this boat? Also while I am at this point if I need to move the motor a little forward as long as it doesn't interfere with the cowling can I do it to get my CG without hurting anything else ? And I will do some more lightening in the non trips and other areas HJ mentioned, but only what I feel comfortable with. Thanks.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

It's your boat and your build so that is as it should be. If it was an aircraft ply build, I would recommend taking out considerably more material. Being for the most part a stock build in this case, caution is a good choise

 

[Neil LaGarry]

HJ You missed pic #1

that transom needs a good grade of ply as I see you've installed it on key area's You can add 1/8" good ply over the end . I'll never say anything.

add 1/32 on the inside so the nut's & washer won't dig in so much. nice looking build so far Mark I had to look close that's not Dumas ply. A1

PS you can seal the inside with a few coats of diluted epoxy . why diluted it spreads very easy and seeps into all small cracks. One can cut clear finnishing epoxy with Xylon or epoxy reducer.Xylene Make a small pot of 30 min wait a little while then add thinner. test it on a few pieces until you get a nice light seal.of the inside of your hull.

 

[kcvnd]

Looking Good Mark!!! I would add a thin ply "cap" to the transom and be sure to sleeve all of your through holes with brass or CF tubing if you don't use threaded inserts. All holes really need to be sealed on the inside to avoid that Luan from soaking up water like a sponge.

Cheers,

Kevin

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Actually, I didn't miss it. I figure it's too late to change now so I let it slide. I would do one thing different from what was suggested though, I would use 1/16 ply inside and out to protect the transom from water. The reason for 1/16 is it will handle more force before "giving" than 1/32 will. At the same time, using 1/16 will result in the same weight as the 1/8 recommended with the same strength

 

[glenng]

Thanks. HJ and Bill. I am not sure what to try as far as radio boxes. I have been thinking about the CG in the boat. I figure to balance it at 3/4 to 1 inch behind the sponson, would that be a good figure for this boat? Also while I am at this point if I need to move the motor a little forward as long as it doesn't interfere with the cowling can I do it to get my CG without hurting anything else ? And I will do some more lightening in the non trips and other areas HJ mentioned, but only what I feel comfortable with. Thanks.

I think it's Aquacraft that makes some small narrow radio boxes(leaving room to keep the pipe under the deck). I shoot for 1/2 -3/4 behind sponsons. I add all hardware, Water lines(everything) before I locate the motor. In the Atlas kit you may need to put a dropped pan below the motor to get it far enough forward. Try to keep weight behind sponson transoms to a Min.

 

[mark couty]

Thanks for all you comments and suggestions, keep em coming. More pics will come as I proceed. Thanks.

 

[mark couty]

Here is some more on my Dumas Atlas build. I made the rear servo box so it is removable. I am mocking things up first before I finalize mounting stuff. Long ways to go yet. Weight right now is about 6 lbs.

 

[hugh hargett]

Here is some more on my Dumas Atlas build. I made the rear servo box so it is removable. I am mocking things up first before I finalize mounting stuff. Long ways to go yet. Weight right now is about 6 lbs.

Is it a right turn boat? If so thats an extremely long rudder rod esp for a pusher into the turn u may need to support that with some guides or an aluminum arrow shaft or something. It is a very clean build though.

 

[mark couty]

Thanks for your comments and suggestion. Some of what is shown is in mock up and is not permanent yet.