Miss T-Plus Tri-Wing

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Did not know a 96 existed, Thanks. The rudder for one, looks like it mounted way to the right and next to the right rear flap. The stab upright support rods are positioned way out on the transom from center, did not they where that far apart. Last are the sponson rear tips seem much longer and the stabs mounted to far back. From Newton's planes, it looks like they are a little more forward
As much as I hate to say this, Roger's plans were far from perfect. It's one of the reasons I take a long time to build a boat, correcting as needed along the way.
With that said, I saw the boat several times, both in the U-2 shop and at Lake Washington, and what you're seeing in the pictures is the way the hull was. The rudder was mounted to a flat area at the inboard end of the right rear wing to keep it in clean water and away from the prop and rooster tail. As far as the rear "shoes" go, yes, they extended that far back so they could work as an airtrap for the outer end of the rear wings on both sides in much the same way as they do on the modern turbine boats on the left side. With the shoes extending that far back, it just made sense to move the tails back so they and the wing would be more effective. As far as the tail braces, they were located, on the inboard end, to clear the tail pipe. When the boat was first built, the tail pipe extended all the way back to the transom. By moving the brackets outward, the braces were not subjected to the heat from the jet exhaust. This can be somewhat seen at the 3:13 mark in this video:
 
Gday John
Mate I hope these help. I too have a new Bert Twin wing with Berts race spec sponson ride pads, that Bert did a number on when building my hull if you need pics shout out.
Photos were sent to me years ago, I think the credit for the photos Is F Peirce Williams.
 

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Hi Ray, are you building an 1/8 Scale or are those sponsons for a gas scale, they look awesome ? The biggest questions are, Will you be doing seven sections --- two sponsons // two front wing and two rear wings // and center hull ?? How are you attaching the left and right sponsons to the wings and then to the hull section, and is the hull center section and wings done ? Like to see pics of the hull !! Looking Good !!
Mine an 1/8 scale U-50 Pit Stop. Pics in my gallery Media added by Ray Sametz Used Newton plans came in at 47 1/2 overall lenght. If you bumped yours up 20%, your gonna have one BIG scale. I used alum treaded rod to attach canoes. Access hatches will let me take it apart.
 
John,

The center section numbers that Roger drew the plans on are right on. The secondary wing angle as drawn works very well for low speed crawl for starts. No tendency to drag water over the back wing. The most common problem with the Bud T-4.

My hulls all have the the cathedral on the primary and secondary wing as drawn. The bottom of the center section will be parallel to the water surface.

I would build the hull in three pieces sponson then center section. You could then have some adjustability to set-up for the additional horsepower. I would set the pieces with carbon fiber or fiberglass tubes front and rear wings.

For the center section I would make a foam pattern then wrap in with fiberglass and carbon fiber. If you plan to make more the one hull I would make a set of molds.

If you have any questions keep posting me or send pm.

Sounds like a fun project.

Happy building!!!

Bert
 
I don't know anything about scales and scale rules, but I read a lot about guys scaling plans up or down... how closely do the models have to be to a real hull ?

And are there any rules about the bottom of our boats staying true to the real hull also, even though our boats run the opposite direction to the real hulls? Are modifications allowed to the sponsons, running gear etc ?

And as far as paint, and markings, is this just for concourse judging? Or does it affect racing points to any degree on race day?
 
I don't know anything about scales and scale rules, but I read a lot about guys scaling plans up or down... how closely do the models have to be to a real hull ?

And are there any rules about the bottom of our boats staying true to the real hull also, even though our boats run the opposite direction to the real hulls? Are modifications allowed to the sponsons, running gear etc ?

And as far as paint, and markings, is this just for concourse judging? Or does it affect racing points to any degree on race day?
Okay Frank, I'll try to make this understandable for you as it can get very confusing, depending on the class of scale you're dealing with. That said, let me lead off with the basic statement that some if this will vary depending on which organizational rules you are working with. Something else you have to remember is that the scale boats are suposed to make it look like a full sized unlimited boat race so there are rules that govern the appearance of the boats. I'm going to use R/C Unlimiteds rule books and MHR as they're similar to what is said in the NAMBA and IMPBA rule book.
Hull CLASSES:
Hull classes are based on the size of the models you want to build/race. The classes are broken down as follows:
  • 1:10 scale electric, scaled down to roughly 1.2" per foot of full sized boat
  • 1:8 scale nitro or electric, no scaling required as plans are normally drawn at the required 1.5" per foot
  • 1:6.7 gas scale, scaled up to 1.8" per foot of full sized boat
  • There is also a larger scale of electric boats, don't know the size breakdown on it
Hull SIZE REQUIREMENTS:
The boats are required to fall within a given variance to actual exact scale dimensions. I know this thread is about the 1993 T-Plus but I'm going to use a boat I'm very familiar with, in this case, the 1973 Pay'N Pak. I'll give the actual boat dimensions(bold title and size) and then give the scale range that dimension can fall into for the three classes I listed above:
Hull Length: 28.5 feet
1:10 33.2-35.2"
1:8 41.75-43.75"
1:6.7 50.05-52.55"
Hull Width: 13.0 feet
1:10 14.04-17.16"
1:8 17.55-21.45"
1:6.7 20.59-26.21"
Tunnel Width 6 foot 8 inches
1:10 7.2-8.8"
1:8 9-11"
1:6.7 10.8-13.2"
Hull Depth 2.5 feet
1:10 2.7-3.3"
1:8 3.38-4.13
1:6.7 4.05-4.95"
Afterplane Length 16.0 feet
1:10 20.74-25.34"
1:8 21.6-26.4"
1:6.7 25.92-31.68"
Picklefork Depth 4 feet
1:10 4.32-5.28"
1:8 5.4-6.6"
1:6.7 6.48-7.92"

Hull Requirements:
Other than size, all of the boats can have minor changes EXCEPT for the 1:10 scale "Vintage class" sponsons. The sponsons on all of the other classes can have riding surfaces "tweaked" in several ways as long as they still look accurate to what the boat could have actually had on it. The "Vintage class", being primarily the early round nosed boats, are required to have the sponsons shaped as they would have in full size, have open sponson transoms if the full sized boat did and with a skid fin mounted in a fashion that the full sized boat would have had. Another modification that is allowed is a "belly pan" of up to a specific size to allow the engine/motor to be lowered for appearance considerations.
Running gear can be either hard shaft or flex in all but the "Vintage class" boats, which must use a straight shaft. The prop and rudder can be configured as desired other than distance behind the hull. Props must be partially under the boat while the rudder can only extend a limited distance behind the hull in at least one class.
As far as the top of the boats, the paint and decals must be as close as possible to the full sized boats to maintain the intent of the class. The cockpits are to be detailed to look like a full sized boat, including a driver(from the waist up) for the boats that had open cockpits while enclosed cockpits are required to have a driver and clear windshield.
 
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Oh my Lord !!! All this forums, on International Waters are the best ever and so lucky to have started this thread on the 93 Miss T-Pus build. It really make me feel so bless to have input by some of the best builders and fellow boaters to reach for the finish line. Came back from a small race up North in Wisconsin, and a little tiered, but I have to say, after looking at pics and reading all this comments, I was flabbergasted and really perked me up, and can't wait to get into the garage and finish the drawings. Want to thank all that commented, and special commendation to those who posted some of the best pictures, video, and so much needed information.
Frist and foremost :
A special thanks to, Burt Dygert, who allowed me to take pictures at Johnston City of his beautiful 1/8 Miss T-Plus, this is where this project first started for me.
Thanks to Bull Dog Racing, for posting all the priceless and valuable Pictures needed, to complete this project.
Thanks to Hydro Juckie, for all that info, totally needed and helpful.
Thanks to Arne all fellow boaters for their comments and input, YOU ALL ARE THE BEST !!
 
Hey John,

I sent you a few text pictures of my T-plus, hope I have the correct phone number. If you need to borrow my hull to get some measurements just let me know.
 
HI Everyone, want to share a few pics with you all. Been steadily working on the the drawings for the T-Plus and after measuring // drawing // and erasing, over and over, till I felt comfortable to get a set of prints made. Well, still not good enough, had to make a few corrections and a few added formers I forgot, like the nose block, top and side profile views, also did the rear wing drawings, along with the mounting bracket and back to have another set of prints made.

Finally getting some ware !! Took the set of prints and cut them all up, position the templates on 1/8" plywood and glue them one by one, onto the plywood. the fun started !! Cutting // Cutting // and Cutting, Enjoy All !!


T-PLUSDRAWINGS03.jpg

T-PLUSDRAWING05.jpgT-PLUSDRAWINGS04.jpg
 
Looks good John. Might motivate me to do the Bud T4
Samuel, the the Bud T4 was my first choice and have plans blown up and was ready to go on it, till the day I seen Burt's T-Plus at the Johnston City Race and fell in love with it. Sharpen the tools up and get the G 10 sheets ready. By the way, what is G10 sheets ? and where can you buy it ?
 

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