Miss T-Plus Tri-Wing

[user 21992]

Looking for info in building the 91-93 Miss T-Plus U2 Tri-Wing 1/6 Gas Scale Unlimited Hydro? Has anyone started one of this hull or even the Budweiser? Any info with pictures would be helpful. Took pictures of Bert Digert 1/8 Scale at Johnston City Race last year, but looking for pictures of the real Hydro (found a few, mostly frontal shots). Have Newtons 1/8 scale 3 sheet plans and blew them up 20% and ready to go for this winters project. In looking into the plans, quickly finding out this is going to be a big challenge. As of now, I will start by drawing all new bulkheads onto drafting paper and then make templates. Thanks In Advance !

 

[Ray Sametz]

Bert Dygert is the man to talk to about the T-plus. Also don't think it ever was a true tri-wing. OMHO

 

[Don Ferrette]

Bert Dygert is the man to talk to about the T-plus. Also don't think it ever was a true tri-wing. OMHO

X2 on checking with Bert. If you build as drawn in the Newton plans it will have issues.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

The only "true" tri-wing boat was the 1990 Circus Circus 9031 hull. Many call it a "four wing" because of the horizontal stabilizer between the tails but the hull itself had three. The same applies to the 1992 Coor's Dry, 1993 T-Plus and 1994 Budweiser T-4, they were two wing boats but called three wing for the same reason the Circus was called a "four". What can(and does) confuse some is that there are a few that call a "canard" or "blow hole" hull a two wing when it's not.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

John. I heard you was going to do the T4. Have you started on anything yet? Do you think having the open air decks will effect the lift with the weight of the boat?

 

[K F Wheeler]

Yup. Burt's the man on those. Think he has two of them... Ken

 

[user 21992]

Hi Don, nice hearing from you. Meet you at Hobart, In. a few years back when I gave Scoot the Lobster cowling. Yes I have started on the T-4 winter project and using Newtons plans as a guide only. I'm drawing up all new templates for the bulkhead formers and have move a few around a bit and added others as needed as the engine compartment is tight and narrow, making most of the bulkheads one piece from left to right. Hoping to keep the hull light , but strong. I'm still need some pics of the back of the hull, all I have been able to fine --- of the real hull are of the front. As for the word Tri Wing, don't know where it came from but it's what I called it : Wings in front // Wings in back // and a Wing between the two vertical stabs. I'll post a pic of bulkhead #7 that was drawn up today "soon" Thanks for the replies !!

 

[john22469]

please post pics as you build the lobster pics you posted help me alot

 

[Don Ferrette]

Hi Don, nice hearing from you. Meet you at Hobart, In. a few years back when I gave Scoot the Lobster cowling. Yes I have started on the T-4 winter project and using Newtons plans as a guide only. I'm drawing up all new templates for the bulkhead formers and have move a few around a bit and added others as needed as the engine compartment is tight and narrow, making most of the bulkheads one piece from left to right. Hoping to keep the hull light , but strong. I'm still need some pics of the back of the hull, all I have been able to fine --- of the real hull are of the front. As for the word Tri Wing, don't know where it came from but it's what I called it : Wings in front // Wings in back // and a Wing between the two vertical stabs. I'll post a pic of bulkhead #7 that was drawn up today "soon" Thanks for the replies !!

Yessir, remember it like it was yesterday, hope you are doing well these days.

 

[user 21992]

Well as mentioned before, I have started with the main #7 bulkhead former and drew it out on drafting paper. Once done with all bulkheads on paper I will make copies and take a set, gluing them onto 1/8 plywood to cut out for templates. Will also be working on the engine rails and inside sponson side "As mentioned before, still looking for good pics of the back of the real T-PLUS". If anyone could help, would be appreciated. Here's two pics of #7 bulkhead --- Left and Right side sponsons with center hull section. I will start a new build thread as soon as all templates are cut out and simi-assembled dry to check fit and adjust as needed. OVER AND OUT FOR NOW !!

 

[arne kantola]

 

[user 21992]

Holly Molly, THANKS ARNE, glad I check the thread this morning, as I'm taking a few days off. That's exactly the type of pics I'm looking for, Thank You Much !! What year hull is that, as I'm noticing a few thing that look different as to what I imagined ? The most important item I'm looking for, is the propeller shaft rear bearing block location and the straight solid shaft angle (sure like to have one machined). Always looking to try new thing, so I was thinking of using a straight shaft on the T-Plus at the least amount of angle. Well not a new idea, as this straight shaft system has been done back in the old days by some of the best in the hobby (if anyone has some names, please point them out). I still undecided, but thinking, that if I can lower the motor and bring the rear round bottom strut up, let's say, 1/2 from the bottom of the transom, this for sure should keep the nose down. And, by using a bit wider sponson with a 1/8 dihedral ride pad, as per plans, it should keep the sponsons up out of the water at high speeds. What is some of you all's thing on this subject. Still need more rear pics of the news version of the 93 T-Plus U2. Keep those pics coming !!

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

John are you gonna be using wood or G10 sheets?

 

[SayMikey]

Im not a big fan od dihedral, just dont go crazy with your aoa. Gas scale boats have plenty of power to power the boat thru the corners. Most boats tend to fly too much

 

[Ray Sametz]

Say Mikey sent me these mods for my sponson bottoms, somewhere I have the numbers on a drawing. Don Ferrette also told me the center section should be dead neutral, no AOA up.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Holly Molly, THANKS ARNE, glad I check the thread this morning, as I'm taking a few days off. That's exactly the type of pics I'm looking for, Thank You Much !! What year hull is that, as I'm noticing a few thing that look different as to what I imagined ? The most important item I'm looking for, is the propeller shaft rear bearing block location and the straight solid shaft angle (sure like to have one machined). Always looking to try new thing, so I was thinking of using a straight shaft on the T-Plus at the least amount of angle. Well not a new idea, as this straight shaft system has been done back in the old days by some of the best in the hobby (if anyone has some names, please point them out). I still undecided, but thinking, that if I can lower the motor and bring the rear round bottom strut up, let's say, 1/2 from the bottom of the transom, this for sure should keep the nose down. And, by using a bit wider sponson with a 1/8 dihedral ride pad, as per plans, it should keep the sponsons up out of the water at high speeds. What is some of you all's thing on this subject. Still need more rear pics of the news version of the 93 T-Plus U2. Keep those pics coming !!

Going off of the MHR, that is the 1996 version. I'm basing that on the KISS 106 and Trendwest decals on the vertical tails. What looks different than you expected?

 

[user 21992]

John are you gonna be using wood or G10 sheets?

Will be using all plywood, what is G10 sheets and where is it available. Send me a link if possible. Thanks

 

[user 21992]

Going off of the MHR, that is the 1996 version. I'm basing that on the KISS 106 and Trendwest decals on the vertical tails. What looks different than you expected?

Did not know a 96 existed, Thanks. The rudder for one, looks like it mounted way to the right and next to the right rear flap. The stab upright support rods are positioned way out on the transom from center, did not they where that far apart. Last are the sponson rear tips seem much longer and the stabs mounted to far back. From Newton's planes, it looks like they are a little more forward

 

[user 21992]

Im not a big fan od dihedral, just dont go crazy with your aoa. Gas scale boats have plenty of power to power the boat thru the corners. Most boats tend to fly too much

Yes, your right on Mike, as I'm drawing the sponson bottom on paper, the aoa will only be about 2 degrees for the first 3 to 4 inches, than starts slowly ramping up pass the shingles and then tighten up to the nose. The dihedral will stay. Thanks Mike

 

[user 21992]

Say Mikey sent me these mods for my sponson bottoms, somewhere I have the numbers on a drawing. Don Ferrette also told me the center section should be dead neutral, no AOA up.

Hi Ray, are you building an 1/8 Scale or are those sponsons for a gas scale, they look awesome ? The biggest questions are, Will you be doing seven sections --- two sponsons // two front wing and two rear wings // and center hull ?? How are you attaching the left and right sponsons to the wings and then to the hull section, and is the hull center section and wings done ? Like to see pics of the hull !! Looking Good !!