Miller American re-build

[Hydro Junkie]

I like that idea, Bob. The only drawback is the hard shaft must be perfectly straight, not a big deal all in all. I may have to try that on the two boats I'm working on now

 

[Dasboatman]

"hard shaft must be perfectly straight"

Hey HJ,

I actually use a piece of Dumas heat treated Armco 17-4PH stainless steel drive staft material when I do .187" flex shafts, 1/4" drill rod for 1/4" flex. They are each as straight as I can measure. I have a solid 3/16 drive shaft in ball bearings in my CT. I searched high and low for hardened shaft material. Finally found 25" lengths available from Gary Jensen. That is some really hard material. Dumas no longer has the case hardened stock number 2704 H-24 3/16" X 24" shafts originally for Drag n Fly 60 hulls. I have used them for years both for solid shaft and for stub shafts through the strut running in roller bearings. I was glad Gary still has the material available.

I have only set up flex shafts like this since the first one I put in a Scale boat in 1987. Has served me well over the years. A slow curve to line up with the strut, and I'm there. I set up with Aeromarine compression collet, but I run square drive set ups in all flex shaft boats. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I have to admit that I've only done a few flex shafts so any ideas to make it easier sound good to me. As I said, I'll be trying that out on the boats I'm doing now since, as you've shown, it works

 

[Kevin Knapp]

I have sealed the inside. Im going to cut some foam but i have some questions when i go to put the deck on. Do i do it all at once? Im assuming yes just want to be 100% before hand.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Since you're dealing with a deck with a gentle compound curve, yes, do it in one piece per side, just like you removed it. If you had a deck like the newer turbines, it might be easier to install it in two pieces, split at the sponson inside where the deck has a sharp break running down the length.

BTW, you are in my doghouse, Kevin. Thanks to you and your boat, I've started working on the sister to your Atlas, the 84/85 Executone. The only real differences are the boat has a more radical offset to the left of the engine bay and cockpit and the afterplane is 6" longer, though I redrew the sponson transoms to mirror image the boat so the engine bay is now on the right. I attached a picture of the started right sponson for you to take a gander at, using Newton Marine plans. Thanks a lot

 

[Dasboatman]

"I'm going to cut some foam....."

Hey Kevin,

If you have a choice, use Dow Chemical "Styrofoam" (blue) as flotation under deck. Styrofoam is an extruded polystyrene insulation and offers the highest moisture resistance of any form of plastic insulation. It also does not provide a nutrient source for mold growth. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Ageed, you could also use the pink as well. What ever you do, stay away from the two part foams. They can and will expand and blow your boat apart

 

[Kevin Knapp]

Well I got the deck on. The deck went on well and looks pretty good. As soon as the epoxy cures ill get some pics up.

 

[Kevin Knapp]

As I start doing the body work on the hull, what paint/primer should I use? Preferably a rattle can.

 

[Dasboatman]

".... what paint/primer should I use? Preferably a rattle can.

Hey Kevin,

I would suggest that you take that thought a couple steps further forward and determine what paint and clear coat you will use. Most of the rattle can primers are a laquer base I believe. You want any primer you use to give you a good base to fill and smooth your hull, and give the paint something to grip on to. Over the years, I have seen paint peel off of incompatable primers - last time was Ditzler's paint peeling off a laquer base primer. Determine what paint system you'll use, and insure the primer you choose will be compatable.

I have been using PPG DP48LF with DP401LF Catalyst the last 15 years or so, and I use PPG Concept (DCC) paints, and PPG DCU2002 Clear with DCX61 hardener and DT885 Reducers in paints and clear coat. My Buddy recommended I try Interlux Epoxy 'Primekote' - - It's less expensive that the PPG product - Rick has been using it with excellant results. Rick likes to paint a whole lot more than I do. When I initially changed to PPG paint system - I tried their base coat goes on without gloss and uses no catalyst. It went on beautifully, and I added graphics and clear coated with the DCU. As I operated the hull, I noticed that a chip in the clear coat allowed whatever to get down to the base coat and would cause it to yield a raised, spider web looking deal. That was the only boat Jack or I used the base coat on. We both went to the two part DCC systems and have not seen the issue again.

I just read a thread I believe in the Outrigger Forum about sealing wood with Z Poxy or a Bob Smith finishing resin I haven't tried as yet. I'm sure you'll get many opinions. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[Hydro Junkie]

On sealing the hull, I would so that regardless of what kind of paint you're using. Sealing the hull with epoxy will prevent the grain raising up and showing through the paint as well as keeping water from getting to the wood if the paint is scratched On a deep gouge, epoxy will help prevent the wood from falling apart as well