LiPo Starters

[Joern Markset]

This is how I designed mine. 4S lipo

 

[Tom Foley]

This is what I am using now and was just thinking of going lighter . I make thhese handles which are great and I have a Speedmaster hasndle and starter that I am not using so I thought about going the LiPo route with a small bag or box to hold a few tools , rag , plugs etc . I keep one box at the line and the other at the pit so I don't have to carry it back and forth 220 times .

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Building 5 of them now. 2 of those are available.

Serious torque and only needs 3S. battery. Half the cost for batteries and with 3 cells instead of 6 they 50% less chance of a cell failure taking out a pack..

These starters will start modded high compression 35cc engines easily .

Every part hand machined accurately from 6061 extruded aluminum. Highest quality switch and starter solenoid doing the switching.

 

[Wasted wages]

^^^^^ these things are nice, if and when I move away from my current starter set up this is what I will be going to. From what I hear these will crank pretty much any motor out there.

 

[Tom Foley]

Very nice and compact . I have a Kawasaki Z- 1 900 starter I built back in 1979 at the house . It will crank anything !!

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Built this bad boy a while ago. Nice but needs 6S and still won't touch the power of the starters I normally make.

 

[Danny King]

Building 5 of them now. 2 of those are available.

Serious torque and only needs 3S. battery. Half the cost for batteries and with 3 cells instead of 6 they 50% less chance of a cell failure taking out a pack..

These starters will start modded high compression 35cc engines easily .

Every part hand machined accurately from 6061 extruded aluminum. Highest quality switch and starter solenoid doing the switching.

Once you use one of these there is no other option IMO.

 

[user 6667]

I am in with Danny on this one
Could not be happier with my DP starter and 7 pulleys

 

[Tom Foley]

Built this bad boy a while ago. Nice but needs 6S and still won't touch the power of the starters I normally make.

Wait till you see this Kawasaki deal . Kinda rough but I worked at a shop in NY that modified Z- 1 Kawasakis all day every day so I was a shoe in for a free starter lol . Your starters are very nice !

 

[ChrisHerzog]

Building 5 of them now. 2 of those are available.

Serious torque and only needs 3S. battery. Half the cost for batteries and with 3 cells instead of 6 they 50% less chance of a cell failure taking out a pack..

These starters will start modded high compression 35cc engines easily .

Every part hand machined accurately from 6061 extruded aluminum. Highest quality switch and starter solenoid doing the switching.

Daniel,
What do you sell these for and how do they hold up to gas engines?

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Daniel,
What do you sell these for and how do they hold up to gas engines?

Chris,
They start the 60+ CC inlines and 35cc high compression singles like nothing. There are many using them on the gas engines most every weekend for better than 5 years.

Electric starters. Gas pulleys and belts. | Page 3 | Intlwaters - RC Boating Forum

 

[Mike Hughes]

Tom,
Slap a couple of 3S 2200mah on that starter that you have now. That is what I was running for the longest time. Make a flat plate with some velcro. I also run a velcro strap around it all as well. HArd wire into the battery leads you got and you will love it.
Mike

This is what I am using now and was just thinking of going lighter . I make thhese handles which are great and I have a Speedmaster hasndle and starter that I am not using so I thought about going the LiPo route with a small bag or box to hold a few tools , rag , plugs etc . I keep one box at the line and the other at the pit so I don't have to carry it back and forth 220 times .View attachment 299810View attachment 299811View attachment 299812

 

[Tom Foley]

Tom,
Slap a couple of 3S 2200mah on that starter that you have now. That is what I was running for the longest time. Make a flat plate with some velcro. I also run a velcro strap around it all as well. HArd wire into the battery leads you got and you will love it.
Mike

Which brings me to another question , the easiest place to get Lipo batteries from ? I have bought from Motion RC before with some success but open to suggestions . Thanks .

 

[Tom Foley]

Here is that Kawasaki 900 starter I made back in 79 for my first boat . Solenoid on the pit box . I might just bring it back to life , been collecting dust since like 1990 .

 

[John Beardslee]

Here is that Kawasaki 900 starter I made back in 79 for my first boat . Solenoid on the pit box . I might just bring it back to life , been collecting dust since like 1990 .View attachment 299850View attachment 299851

I used a 750 cc Honda starter for years. Migrated to Sullivan when flying rc heli’s and using the 18.5 v adapter for Makita cordless. I still use cordless for testing and blowing engines out under the canopy but they ran out of juice in the hot pit at the worst time. I now leave a 24 v starter box in the hot pit for race starting.

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Tom,
The Kawi is serious.

The problem with the starters that require 24 volt or 6S LiPo they also need enough capacity along with high enough C rating to withstand the amps the starter draws especially if you are turning over big nitro and/or gas engines. That can get to be a pretty good sized pack and expensive. Sure you can get by with less mah and C rating in a cheaper pack but it may have a short life span if you regularly exceed the C rating of the pack. The extra mah pack you need to make them last isn't about run time it is about what the battery is going to be able to handle long term.

The smaller mah seem to not be as high of a C rating as the 4000 and up mah packs.

If you went 2500 X 50C discharge rating it's only good for 125 amp. That isn't hardly enough for a starter motor. Lock the rotor and the pack will be damaged easily.

If you use a 5000 mah with 70C rating you have 350 amp on tap. Your not going to hurt that pack with excessive load.

Then if you are starting big engines with serious LiPo pack providing power the pushbutton switch will not last very long and you will need to wire in a solenoid if you want it to truly be dependable.

If adding a solenoid 24 volt ones are few and far between and tend to be larger style so you use the power from the balance plug to get your 11.1 3S power for the control wiring and use a 12 volt.

Or you can use two small engine style and parrallel the large switching posts for added amp load capacity and run the coil wires in series with each other so now the two will be setup for 24 volt

As far as attaching the battery to the starter I guess you have to choose the battery you will be using first then cut up some kind of a mount plate and secure it either up the back or possibly along the side would work. With your fab skills and ideas should be really easy for you to get that on there.

 

[Tom Foley]

Tom,
The Kawi is serious.

The problem with the starters that require 24 volt or 6S LiPo they also need enough capacity along with high enough C rating to withstand the amps the starter draws especially if you are turning over big nitro and/or gas engines. That can get to be a pretty good sized pack and expensive. Sure you can get by with less mah and C rating in a cheaper pack but it may have a short life span if you regularly exceed the C rating of the pack.

Then if you are starting big engines with serious LiPo pack providing power the pushbutton switch will not last very long and you will need to wire in a solenoid if you want it to truly be dependable.

If adding a solenoid 24 volt ones are few and far between and tend to be larger style so you use the power from the balance plug to get your 11.1 3S power for the control wiring and use a 12 volt.

Or you can use two small engine style and parrallel the large switching posts for added amp load capacity and run the coil wires in series with each other so now the two will be setup for 24 volt

As far as attaching the battery to the starter I guess you have to choose the battery you will be using first then cut up some kind of a mount plate and secure it either up the back or possibly along the side would work. With your fab skills and ideas should be really easy for you to get that on there.

The price of those 6 S batteries was kind of a wakeup call ! I see all kinds of batteries out there and with the potential volatility of a 6 S Lipo I would want to buy from a good manufacturer . Who is reliable ?