JAP/JAE .12G construction

[Geraghty]

As of 30 minutes ago,147 sets of JAP.12G plans have left this computer and who knows how many have been forwarded on by someone else ...........That is absolutely amazing.

I have received several questions about construction and hardware,I.E. my "hi-tech" building jig.....the rudder.......water cooling......driveline installation and so on and so on..........

If ony 25% of the people who asked for these plans decide to build the boat,there just has to be questions,comments & suggestions.

We really tried to make the plans as simple and complete as possible but sure as hell we have missed something.If we decide to do this again in the future ,help us give you what you want and make this a successful and rewarding build.....

If you have a question,comment or suggestion ,ask here it and share it with everyone and let us help you solve any problems you may run into.

Lets get some people building and gluing their fingers to the table again instead of just buying.......

Right out of the chute here is a photo of the gentle "S" bend driveline installation.

Note: I just checked out the www.solingerrc.com website and there are illustrations of the rudder and motor mount right on the home page.......

[don't ya just love it when a plan comes together?]

 

[Kevin Sheren]

Solinger web site

 

[BB Mods's]

I just got my plans laminated and cut, Ill spend tonight making the 3/8" template pieces, and getting one of Rods "high tech" jigs built

This is the only rigger iv ever wanted to build from the ground up!

1 quick question Rod, looking at your templates, there is no dihedral on the sponson bottoms, is that correct? also what are people running for sponson cores?

 

[Tony Jacuzzi]

As of 30 minutes ago,147 sets of JAP.12G plans have left this computer and who knows how many have been forwarded on by someone else ...........That is absolutely amazing.I have received several questions about construction and hardware,I.E. my "hi-tech" building jig.....the rudder.......water cooling......driveline installation and so on and so on..........

If ony 25% of the people who asked for these plans decide to build the boat,there just has to be questions,comments & suggestions.

We really tried to make the plans as simple and complete as possible but sure as hell we have missed something.If we decide to do this again in the future ,help us give you what you want and make this a successful and rewarding build.....

If you have a question,comment or suggestion ,ask here it and share it with everyone and let us help you solve any problems you may run into.

Lets get some people building and gluing their fingers to the table again instead of just buying.......

Right out of the chute here is a photo of the gentle "S" bend driveline installation.

Note: I just checked out the www.solingerrc.com website and there are illustrations of the rudder and motor mount right on the home page.......

[don't ya just love it when a plan comes together?]

Cool idea on the strut !!

 

[Geraghty]

I just got my plans laminated and cut, Ill spend tonight making the 3/8" template pieces, and getting one of Rods "high tech" jigs built


This is the only rigger iv ever wanted to build from the ground up!

1 quick question Rod, looking at your templates, there is no dihedral on the sponson bottoms, is that correct? also what are people running for sponson cores?

That is correct.the sponsons are dead flat........I have built sponsons with balsa cores,foam cores and hollow egg crate build-up construction techniques.....

you make the call and build them the way you are most comfortable...all [3] ways are equally effective.....

 

[Buckshot]

+1 on the strut in Rod's photo.

-Buck-

 

[J Solinger]

This is the motor mount for the JAP12G, or any boat you wish to use it in. To mount it in the hull you first bolt the halves to the motor. With the wood mounting blocks glued to the hull, set the motor with mounts attached in the hull and locate on the wood mounting blocks to your liking. Use a pencil or some thing to transfer the bolt hole locations onto the mounting blocks. Then remove the motor and mounts and drill the mounting blocks with a 1/16" drill to about 1/2" deep. This is to help keep the wood from splitting. A washer goes on the bottom, then the motor mount and then another washer and the screw goes through the whole stack. For now, just lightly snug the screws. When I'm done adjusting and I know I don't need to take the mount out again I remove the screws and put a drop or two of epoxy down the hole before driving the screw in. This epoxy will soak into the wood and harden the threads as well as hold the screw. So "Just snug" the screws into place. These screws will come out again but its much tougher, they won't come out on their own.

 

[Geraghty]

+1 on the strut in Rod's photo.
-Buck-

Thanks much.....I had some scraps of Delrin laying around so I just milled up a simple strut just to see what it would look like......

Functionally it isn't going to work one bit better than the Octura but it does look pretty neat.

I also got to thinkin'........A small hardwood triangular block glued to the transom would also serve as a great strut mounting block in lieu of the aluminum angle.Then I got to thinkin' again.........With the tub extension for the rudder and a hardwood strut mounting block,no mounting screws would breech the inside of the radio box and I really liked that result.....the less holes in the radio box the better..

One of of the great pleasures of scratch building a boat is thinkin' up simple little functional items like the hardwood strut mount....

Building is twice as much fun as buying........

 

[Geraghty]

This is the motor mount for the JAP12G, or any boat you wish to use it in. To mount it in the hull you first bolt the halves to the motor. With the wood mounting blocks glued to the hull, set the motor with mounts attached in the hull and locate on the wood mounting blocks to your liking. Use a pencil or some thing to transfer the bolt hole locations onto the mounting blocks. Then remove the motor and mounts and drill the mounting blocks with a 1/16" drill to about 1/2" deep. This is to help keep the wood from splitting. A washer goes on the bottom, then the motor mount and then another washer and the screw goes through the whole stack. For now, just lightly snug the screws. When I'm done adjusting and I know I don't need to take the mount out again I remove the screws and put a drop or two of epoxy down the hole before driving the screw in. This epoxy will soak into the wood and harden the threads as well as hold the screw. So "Just snug" the screws into place. These screws will come out again but its much tougher, they won't come out on their own.

Credit where credit is due......David Hall is the guy that brought this motor mount design to the table and Joe Solinger brought it to fruition......

I really want to thank Joe Solinger for getting involved in this effort.Now,is this a nice piece for $10.00 or what........A rubber isolated motor mount that doesn't require drilling holes in the side of the tub and all for $10.00....Now is this way cool or what....

Think about how this motor mount design makes the installation alignment of the stuffing box so much easier.Bolt the whole mess together and you can locate where the stuffing box will breech the radio box bulkhead before ever gluing down the motor mount blocks.The result is perfect drive shaft alignment.

once again,building is twice as much fun as buying.....

 

[carlnoki]

Rod;

Do you think that mount in 3/16" thickness will work with a 90 motor?

I blew up the plans you sent (from the Original one you sent me) to a 90 sized boat and am getting ready to order the wood.

carl cisneros

 

[Geraghty]

Rod;
Do you think that mount in 3/16" thickness will work with a 90 motor?

I blew up the plans you sent (from the Original one you sent me) to a 90 sized boat and am getting ready to order the wood.

carl cisneros

I would think with larger grommets and about [4] grommets down each side...that should work fine.......the thing to do is make sure

you don't bind up the grommets and spacers so the motor mount can't move.Make the spacers very slightly longer [.030"] than the width of the grommets

to allow for mounting plate movement and vibration dampening.....

 

[carlnoki]

Rod;

sounds good to me. will do

also the 21 is ready to hit the water if the weather cooperates this weekend.

carl

 

[J Solinger]

Here is a thought on a way to substitute the strut. It wouldn't be adjustable but I think where it should be is pretty well settled. What are your thoughts?

 

[Geraghty]

Here is a thought on a way to substitute the strut. It wouldn't be adjustable but I think where it should be is pretty well settled. What are your thoughts?

Joe,

No doubt that would work but most of the nitro boats will want to use .150" shaft with a .187" prop shaft.....

I don't have the capability or ability to do the neat illustrations you can do so I will call you tonight

and explain how I did it in my boat.It is super simple and maybe you can illustrate that for posting on this thread also.

Thanks again for all your help........

Rod Geraghty

 

[brucedurham]

guys the plans are printed and will be ordering supplies tomorrow, but i have a question or two,on the rear skis what thickness will work the best and can they be solid wood like basswood, etc? the other question is on the assembled veiw it shows a section cutaway with what looks like 3 peices glued to the bottom is that just to stregthen the floor for the shaft tube? please bear with me this will be my first rigger and first home build, thanks.

 

[Niklas Edlund]

You can also find the links to the pdf drawings here:

http://ne-stuff.blogspot.com/2009/04/jap-1...hydroplane.html

 

[Geraghty]

guys the plans are printed and will be ordering supplies tomorrow, but i have a question or two,on the rear skis what thickness will work the best and can they be solid wood like basswood, etc? the other question is on the assembled veiw it shows a section cutaway with what looks like 3 peices glued to the bottom is that just to stregthen the floor for the shaft tube? please bear with me this will be my first rigger and first home build, thanks.

I make my ski side formers with 3/32" plywood and then sheet the bottom of the ski with 1/16" plywood.A solid piece of whatever will work fine as long as the edges are kept sharp and defined.I usually don't use solid pieces just because of the added weight that comes with it but I am anal when it comes to weight.With this boat,weight really isn't going to be much of a consideration.If you build the rest of the boat per the plans ,the boat will come in plenty light.

The [3] pieces you see on the bottom are the front part of the ski where the cross section was taken.Look at where the section cut was taken.

If the ski wasn't on the drawing where the section was taken you wouldn't see the [3] pieces..... I hope that explanation is clear ......... :wacko:

If you think you are in over your head just e-mail me a phone number and we will talk until you are comfortable.........I want everybody to experience the pride that comes from scratch building a boat to a successful conclusion......building is a lot more fun that buying.

 

[brucedurham]

thanks, im on track now just the one rear ski. i will definitly go with the plywood there, but i,m sure we will be talking soon.

 

[Geraghty]

thanks, im on track now just the one rear ski. i will definitly go with the plywood there, but i,m sure we will be talking soon.

Anytime.....

 

[TCHedOff]

I just got back from meeting Joe Solinger & picking up my motor mounts. Nice guy & nice workmanship. For those interested, the mounts are 55mm long (just under 2-1/4") and where the engine bolts up, the mounts are pre-tapped for 4-40 bolts. He also includes basic instructions on the packaging... NICE. Time to mount my engine!