Jae Innovations

[SayMikey]

Ok its time for a tell all. What are you doing to improve or make your boat build better? NOT TALKING DESIGN as we have that. I have found by adding a piece of the next size alum boom material where the subs come out will give a little extra strength. Here is what I do cut the next size up with a tubing cutter on one end and a dremil on the other. Then using a round file I clean out the radius the tubing cutter makes to all a tight fit to the boom tube. (this also hides where i touched the stub with sand paper while sanding) .

 

[tmunn]

Pictures would help explain what you are talking about

I used 5/16 brass instead of the aluminum in the tub as well as it goes right through the sponsons so it will have a much better anchor point rather than just butt on the inside of the plywood.

I will post pics when I have everything sanded and ready to coat with epoxy.

Terry

 

[Ron Olson]

I've given out most of my tricks so far in the other threads. I may have been the first one to use tubing in the tub but used aluminum as it matched the tubing in the sponsons. Somebody could use brass all around as it would take less than 2 pieces to do it all.

Instead of using the 2-56 bolts that came with the kit I used RC car body clips to hold the booms in place at both ends. This way I'm only drilling a 1/16" hole plus less weight. I went with the 6-32 threaded brass inserts last week to hold the turn fin in place, a great idea from somebody in here.

I can post fresh pix to show better what I've done since the last time, one is my way of simply mounting the remote needle after many hours of staring at the thing! Too easy!

Mikey, we're going to have to get a class of these going next year at Hobart as I see a lot of owners of these boats were there. I saw you but I didn't introduce myself and you probably saw me a lot but didn't know who I was. I think that I was sitting on the sidewalk in front of you during the raffle drawing, the guy with a fistful of tickets.

 

[Tony Newland]

Hey Ron, So your using alum tubing epoxied in the tub to mount the booms to? How are you attaching the front boom to the tube so it's replaceable one day? The rear is easy

I'd like to se a pic of your remote needle I have a couple ideas but more info the better

 

[SayMikey]

I've given out most of my tricks so far in the other threads. I may have been the first one to use tubing in the tub but used aluminum as it matched the tubing in the sponsons. Somebody could use brass all around as it would take less than 2 pieces to do it all.

Instead of using the 2-56 bolts that came with the kit I used RC car body clips to hold the booms in place at both ends. This way I'm only drilling a 1/16" hole plus less weight. I went with the 6-32 threaded brass inserts last week to hold the turn fin in place, a great idea from somebody in here.

I can post fresh pix to show better what I've done since the last time, one is my way of simply mounting the remote needle after many hours of staring at the thing! Too easy!

Mikey, we're going to have to get a class of these going next year at Hobart as I see a lot of owners of these boats were there. I saw you but I didn't introduce myself and you probably saw me a lot but didn't know who I was. I think that I was sitting on the sidewalk in front of you during the raffle drawing, the guy with a fistful of tickets.

I remember a guy sitting next to me and winning a bunch even a boat!

 

[TERMINATOR]

I've given out most of my tricks so far in the other threads. I may have been the first one to use tubing in the tub but used aluminum as it matched the tubing in the sponsons. Somebody could use brass all around as it would take less than 2 pieces to do it all.

Instead of using the 2-56 bolts that came with the kit I used RC car body clips to hold the booms in place at both ends. This way I'm only drilling a 1/16" hole plus less weight. I went with the 6-32 threaded brass inserts last week to hold the turn fin in place, a great idea from somebody in here.

I can post fresh pix to show better what I've done since the last time, one is my way of simply mounting the remote needle after many hours of staring at the thing! Too easy!

Mikey, we're going to have to get a class of these going next year at Hobart as I see a lot of owners of these boats were there. I saw you but I didn't introduce myself and you probably saw me a lot but didn't know who I was. I think that I was sitting on the sidewalk in front of you during the raffle drawing, the guy with a fistful of tickets.

I remember a guy sitting next to me and winning a bunch even a boat!

why not use boom tube collars to hold them , no need to drill th fronts and the rears can be shimmed way easier..

tk

 

[Ron Olson]

Yeah, I won a gallon of fuel, a card of O'Donnell glow plugs and the .67 'rigger. I also got 2 gift certificates for ABC props that have yet to show up. That's another story there.

OK, now back to the question at hand. Figuring out a way to quickly replace the tubing for the front boom has been on my mind since I installed both of them. It might take a drill or big-ass hammer to get it out it it gets so bent out of shape that it can't be fixed. If it gets that far then I'm guessing that it would need more than that fixed. Now if someone could think of a way to pin the whole assembly through the front boom blocks, tubes and booms then they might have something!

Aw rats, I'm going to have to head downstairs and stare at #2 for a while!

I'll work on getting those shots.

[Quick edit after seeing Terry's posting]

Terry, I tried Du-Bro wheel collars on the old Hammerhead .12 . Although they worked great, 8 of those add up to a lot of weight, that's why I was looking for a lightweight way to mount everything. What has stuck in my mind for years back when Glenn was building his record setting .12 'rigger was how much speed can be gained by dropping off gramms then adding to ounces by dropping all that he could as it added speed. Ounces really count on small boats.

 

[Ron Olson]

OK, I just took 2 shots. The first one doesn't show much, just the side overhangs on the sponsons removed, the body clips and the threaded inserts in place.

The other one shows the NR air-cooled head better and the stock slotted bolts replaced with Allen heads. My way of trying to hook up the remote needle is also shown, just a tiny piece of fuel line zip-tied in place. I left a little length there so that I can see when fuel is getting to the carb and for a little vibration isolation.

 

[Mike Byer]

I made mine a little bigger and put a gas engine in it.

 

[TERMINATOR]

Yeah, I won a gallon of fuel, a card of O'Donnell glow plugs and the .67 'rigger. I also got 2 gift certificates for ABC props that have yet to show up. That's another story there.

OK, now back to the question at hand. Figuring out a way to quickly replace the tubing for the front boom has been on my mind since I installed both of them. It might take a drill or big-ass hammer to get it out it it gets so bent out of shape that it can't be fixed. If it gets that far then I'm guessing that it would need more than that fixed. Now if someone could think of a way to pin the whole assembly through the front boom blocks, tubes and booms then they might have something!

Aw rats, I'm going to have to head downstairs and stare at #2 for a while!

I'll work on getting those shots.

[Quick edit after seeing Terry's posting]

Terry, I tried Du-Bro wheel collars on the old Hammerhead .12 . Although they worked great, 4 of those add up to a lot of weight, that's why I was looking for a lightweight way to mount everything. What has stuck in my mind for years back when Glenn was building his record setting .12 'rigger was how much speed can be gained by dropping off gramms then adding to ounces by dropping all that he could as it added speed. Ounces really count on small boats.

ron make them outta delrin , about as light as you can get man..if needed send me delrin and i can make them, then you are able to hold the booms solid on the fron with no holes other than the sponson holes, then in the rear 2 screws for the shims and boom collars on the sides and then the spnson screws.. sholda kept that jag 67 long enough to sell it to me and copy what bob does , his are the same way. really light and slick

tk

 

[mtruex]

Yeah, I won a gallon of fuel, a card of O'Donnell glow plugs and the .67 'rigger. I also got 2 gift certificates for ABC props that have yet to show up. That's another story there.

OK, now back to the question at hand. Figuring out a way to quickly replace the tubing for the front boom has been on my mind since I installed both of them. It might take a drill or big-ass hammer to get it out it it gets so bent out of shape that it can't be fixed. If it gets that far then I'm guessing that it would need more than that fixed. Now if someone could think of a way to pin the whole assembly through the front boom blocks, tubes and booms then they might have something!

Aw rats, I'm going to have to head downstairs and stare at #2 for a while!

I'll work on getting those shots.

[Quick edit after seeing Terry's posting]

Terry, I tried Du-Bro wheel collars on the old Hammerhead .12 . Although they worked great, 4 of those add up to a lot of weight, that's why I was looking for a lightweight way to mount everything. What has stuck in my mind for years back when Glenn was building his record setting .12 'rigger was how much speed can be gained by dropping off gramms then adding to ounces by dropping all that he could as it added speed. Ounces really count on small boats.

ron make them outta delrin , about as light as you can get man..if needed send me delrin and i can make them, then you are able to hold the booms solid on the fron with no holes other than the sponson holes, then in the rear 2 screws for the shims and boom collars on the sides and then the spnson screws.. sholda kept that jag 67 long enough to sell it to me and copy what bob does , his are the same way. really light and slick

tk

aint none of dem der shims on these boats boy!!!

 

[TERMINATOR]

Yeah, I won a gallon of fuel, a card of O'Donnell glow plugs and the .67 'rigger. I also got 2 gift certificates for ABC props that have yet to show up. That's another story there.

OK, now back to the question at hand. Figuring out a way to quickly replace the tubing for the front boom has been on my mind since I installed both of them. It might take a drill or big-ass hammer to get it out it it gets so bent out of shape that it can't be fixed. If it gets that far then I'm guessing that it would need more than that fixed. Now if someone could think of a way to pin the whole assembly through the front boom blocks, tubes and booms then they might have something!

Aw rats, I'm going to have to head downstairs and stare at #2 for a while!

I'll work on getting those shots.

[Quick edit after seeing Terry's posting]

Terry, I tried Du-Bro wheel collars on the old Hammerhead .12 . Although they worked great, 4 of those add up to a lot of weight, that's why I was looking for a lightweight way to mount everything. What has stuck in my mind for years back when Glenn was building his record setting .12 'rigger was how much speed can be gained by dropping off gramms then adding to ounces by dropping all that he could as it added speed. Ounces really count on small boats.

ron make them outta delrin , about as light as you can get man..if needed send me delrin and i can make them, then you are able to hold the booms solid on the fron with no holes other than the sponson holes, then in the rear 2 screws for the shims and boom collars on the sides and then the spnson screws.. sholda kept that jag 67 long enough to sell it to me and copy what bob does , his are the same way. really light and slick

tk

aint none of dem der shims on these boats boy!!!

but i bet they r gona have a crazy lookin carbon donger thinger on them here this week..lol sent it today martin, thanks agian

tk

 

[mtruex]

Yeah, I won a gallon of fuel, a card of O'Donnell glow plugs and the .67 'rigger. I also got 2 gift certificates for ABC props that have yet to show up. That's another story there.

OK, now back to the question at hand. Figuring out a way to quickly replace the tubing for the front boom has been on my mind since I installed both of them. It might take a drill or big-ass hammer to get it out it it gets so bent out of shape that it can't be fixed. If it gets that far then I'm guessing that it would need more than that fixed. Now if someone could think of a way to pin the whole assembly through the front boom blocks, tubes and booms then they might have something!

Aw rats, I'm going to have to head downstairs and stare at #2 for a while!

I'll work on getting those shots.

[Quick edit after seeing Terry's posting]

Terry, I tried Du-Bro wheel collars on the old Hammerhead .12 . Although they worked great, 4 of those add up to a lot of weight, that's why I was looking for a lightweight way to mount everything. What has stuck in my mind for years back when Glenn was building his record setting .12 'rigger was how much speed can be gained by dropping off gramms then adding to ounces by dropping all that he could as it added speed. Ounces really count on small boats.

ron make them outta delrin , about as light as you can get man..if needed send me delrin and i can make them, then you are able to hold the booms solid on the fron with no holes other than the sponson holes, then in the rear 2 screws for the shims and boom collars on the sides and then the spnson screws.. sholda kept that jag 67 long enough to sell it to me and copy what bob does , his are the same way. really light and slick

tk

aint none of dem der shims on these boats boy!!!

but i bet they r gona have a crazy lookin carbon donger thinger on them here this week..lol sent it today martin, thanks agian

tk

hahaha well see

 

[Ron Olson]

I weighed up a pair of wheel collars a little while ago just to see how heavy they are, 9.5 grams for 2 of them, not as bad as I thought but the Delrin ones would be a lot lighter.

I didn't have a use for the Jag as I don't do nitro over .45 but Kevin Sheren was right there with an offer almost too good to turn down as he knew that I needed another gas engine so I got an RCMK Evo from him in trade. Maybe he'll tease me next spring and let me watch him run it! I would have had to wait until sometime in January to get it which would probably be faster than what I'll get the ABC props that I won.

 

[opio]

I made mine a little bigger and put a gas engine in it.

made your a LITTLE bigger? lol

 

[Ron Olson]

I'm wondering how you guys are running your cooling line through the radio box so if I could, can someone show how you did it? My first one I got one of those air-cooled heads from Glenn just to avoid the hassle but on my second one I'll stay with water-cooled. I already got a piece of brass tubing one size smaller than the 1/8" as from reading a lot in here the NR .12 doesn't seem to need very much water flowing through it. Routing around all of the things already in the box seems to look as though things will be tighter.

 

[Zach Davis]

I'm wondering how you guys are running your cooling line through the radio box so if I could, can someone show how you did it? My first one I got one of those air-cooled heads from Glenn just to avoid the hassle but on my second one I'll stay with water-cooled. I already got a piece of brass tubing one size smaller than the 1/8" as from reading a lot in here the NR .12 doesn't seem to need very much water flowing through it. Routing around all of the things already in the box seems to look as though things will be tighter.

Is there any way to run it along the bottom inside of the ski?

Mine are air cooled. Just a thought.

Zach

 

[Ron Olson]

Nope, that wouldn't work. Maybe along the floor. The ugly way would be to run it along the outside and hold it in place the landing gear clamps. The only holes drilled then would be small ones for the screws.

 

[TCHedOff]

Here is pic for you Ron. It is just a straight tube all the way til it enters the engine area @1/8" above the bottom and 1/8" out from the side. When it enters the engine area, I bent the tube up and in so it easier to slide on the rubber tubing. The rubber tubing is routed under the throttle linkage and forms a nice loop forward of the linkage and goes up between the engine and header. As you can see I opted to go with my servos mounted vertically (85MG & 225MG), and ran the tubing thru the hardwood mounts.

The 2nd build I'm doing this winter will have the tubing literally in the corner of the bottom and side, and expect to be mounting the servos on their sides.

 

[opio]

Im am at work so I cant post pics but I ran mine down the outsid of the hull on the stb side. AND ITS NOT UGLY!