JAE 67/84 build up

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interesting rudder pushrod Dave. What is the main rod consist of? Stainless? You're soldering threaded ends onto it?
look at the post earlier in this tread. K&S piano wire that I run a 4/40 die on the ends in the lath.
I put the die in the chuck and the wire in the drill chuck in the tail stock. Back gear slowest it will go and hand feed it with the tail stock floating on the ways.
 
I would not suggest using Kevlar/Carbon cloth. It is not easy to work with and you most likely won't get the finish you were looking for. Dave pulled it off somehow, but I bet he might have second thoughts if he were to do it again. You will get way better results with straight carbon cloth. I have done a fair bit of working with both and kevlar is a nightmare. My 2 cents.
 
Yes if it is your first time doing a over lay I would recommend testing it first.
It is easy to do if you DO NOT SAND IT.
Get a large pack of razor knife blades.
Thy are your best friend. just cut it with a FRESH blade and call it good.
It is all in the technique you use.
I repeat "DO NOT SAND"
Clean the edge with the blade and then use a torch and run it fast along the edge wiping it with your fingers as you go.
 
I would not suggest using Kevlar/Carbon cloth. It is not easy to work with and you most likely won't get the finish you were looking for. Dave pulled it off somehow, but I bet he might have second thoughts if he were to do it again. You will get way better results with straight carbon cloth. I have done a fair bit of working with both and kevlar is a nightmare. My 2 cents.
Sure, it may be tricky, but it's nice to have a bullet proof boat.😉
 
OK so lets see how this will work out......LOL
So the boat was a blast for the fist run. Threw it in the water and pop right off.
Boat runs light a s a feather......BUT..............It blows the back end out.
Dose not matter prop or strut setting.
IT BLOWS>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Will pull a 7.5 cup H50.......BUT.......it blows out in the corners if you change your coarse.
The boat is fine in the front end and it tracks strait as a arrow with no ruder adjustment or toe in.
But it blows out the prop when ever it wants ...HOP HOP.......dunk.........................
It is not bad till you get it up over 75 then it starts to act funny.
Liked the ABC 2717-19-38 2 blade the best it also liked the ABC 2717 23 38 3 blade.
Tried every prop in Eric's box and mine.
Kinda blew his mind when it pulled up a H50 7.5 cup with this little .77.......................LOL
But That is the function of the ski to pull up props. The problem is it takes away the efficiency of the prop.
Just because it pulls up a big one dose not mean it will go fast.
I found this out testing with my SGX with no rear sponsons and just a wing.
The boat would not pull up near as much prop but it did not go slower.
Eric's new twin from Andy he ran today is that way.
The ski fell off did not know it. Pop a new prop on to test and threw it in the water was a little sluggish to come up.
O must be that prop is to big.
Brought back in and went to mess with the strut and there was no ski. This thing pulled up a 2117 with no ski at all.....LOL
To start I will change the strut to the one I use all the time the Octura skeg strut with the skeg cut off.
Will also make rear sponsons to put on with 2 side tape.
All and all it did just what I thought it would.
So lets see how this works out next run.
 
Is there a rule of thumb for how much gap should be between the trailing edge of the ski and strut? I have a couple of ski boats and haven’t run into this issue, makes sense though to keep the prop hub appropriately wet.
 
David, Look at the gap between your ski and the front of your strut.
You know after I posted this Eric sent me a pic of just that on his 40 boat the strut sits on the ski.
Got it will make some changes and try again.
 
OK so it is ski time.
So let me throw this out there and see if I get any feed back.
When the boat is on the table with the front sponsons and the tub level.
Should the ski be on the table or above the table?
On most boats the rears are set up about .100 off the table and the end of the strut on the table with between 1 and 1.5 deg angle in the strut.
Also the rears are only about 1 deg angle of attack.
So should I make this new ski to set the rear up like this.
Come on all you JAE gurus what do you think??????????
Don't worry I will not tell any one what I did.....LOL
 

OK got the video to upload finally.......LOL
This is the first run after I redid the ski and moved it back 1/2" to match how much the strut was moved back for the 1 1/2" rudder.
The pipe is at 11" long to start and the prop is a ABC 2719-19-38 cut down to 2.55"
Leaned on it a little to much.....LOL
The boat is much better can start to tune the eng and props now.
Spent all day testing different props and some strut changes.
Ran a gallon threw the eng and then WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!
It locked up on the stand.
The wrist pin locked in the rod...........F!@@@##%%^^&&&&
Well got it out and all fixed up just have to wait till Stu comes out of hibernation to get a new pin.....LOL
The boat has some potential I can see. Will just take the right combination of prop and strut setting .
Nothing but some fuel and time.
Will see if it will be a heat race boat soon as thy start racing again in DIS 3 NAMBA
 
O one more thing......
My bud Eric Canto had his 40 JAE at the pond and it is the same size as this boat as far as the foot print......HUUUUUMMMMM
O and the .77 will drop right in it.
 
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