JAE 67/84 build up

[dwilfong]

Hi:
I´m following this post.
Thank you very much for the information.-

I all ways try and share every thing I do.
Stu and Stan have bin very helpful.

 

[dwilfong]

Well I have bin on a buying binge for the last two days to get stuff for the build.
Have some 2.2 oz Carbon /Kevlar cloth on the way to work with.
Have some .060 Titanium sheet to make a fin.
And a new fat bell pipe.
Will cut up my old pipe to make a custom pipe to test on this build.
Will also try some of that brazing rod made for aluminum to make the new pipe......finger crossed on this one....LOL
Will also try some 3/8 C/F hallow rod with some wood dowels epoxied in them.
Will also do a detailed sponson build up with Bass wood inserts and carbon/Kevlar all for reinforcement.
Will also do a few diffrent ski set ups.
Will also do mods to one set of sponsons to test.
Motor mount next.................

 

[Tom Foley]

Don't waste your time with that brazing rod . it flows thin and has little strength . send me the pipe when you are ready !! PLEASE .

 

[dwilfong]

Don't waste your time with that brazing rod . it flows thin and has little strength . send me the pipe when you are ready !! PLEASE .

Thanks Tom will send it your way. You did a killer job on the last franken pipe.

 

[dwilfong]

Zippy has bin mounted.................................

 

[Tom Foley]

No worries Dave ! Still running that rudder assembly you gave me on my SG , never forget lol !

 

[dwilfong]

No worries Dave ! Still running that rudder assembly you gave me on my SG , never forget lol !

Yes that is the best part of boating sharing stuff with your buds.
You still got the SGX cowl molds?
Could us a little Eagle on Zippy...........

 

[dwilfong]

OK got a new Fat Belly pipe from Stu.
Got the stinger opened up to .421 with out drilling it.
Well kinda used a drill..........used the back end of the drill with some taper ground on it.
Greased every thing up real good and drive them home.
just go one letter and fraction size at a time .
The stinger will open right up. also do the same on the front end with some sockets.
If thy can stretch this thing over a mandrel to make it no reason you cant stretch it to open up the ends.
Now it slides right over the header.
Next will be drive tube in the hull.

 

[David Ashcroft]

Yes the stinger is only small on them pipes ,,and not much meat to work on..

 

[brad nichols]

Looking good David!!

Brad

 

[dwilfong]

Yes the stinger is only small on them pipes ,,and not much meat to work on..

I posted the wrong # it is open to .421 it was .394 to start with .....yes SMALL......It will stretch to .437 for the next move if need be.

 

[dwilfong]

OK so got the muffler mounted.
Made a spacer out of brass on the lath for a good fit. Will come up with a mount later on in the build.
Got the stuffing tube all tacked in with C/A and the support block made.
Also fit the rudder and the strut assemble.
Made a mount for the rudder servo a 500 in/oz at 6V Savox servo. Should handle the BIG rudder....
Also ordered some new rudders blades fro Steve Wood in 1.25 and 1.5 size.
Tacked in the rudder push rod boot brass tube with C/A.
Will finish the stuffing tube mount when the Carbon / Kevlar clothe comes in.
Will finish the servo mount when I get the push rod made up.
Zippy is coming along very nice.........
This is the best part of R/C boating to me building your own boat.

 

[Tom Foley]

Yes I have the 67/80 cowl mold .

 

[dwilfong]

Yes I have the 67/80 cowl mold .

How wide is the cowl where it turns from the bubble to the flat at the widest point?
This tub is 3.25" from inside to inside.

 

[dwilfong]

Well was kinda lazy to day only got the steering push rod made up.
I make it from K&S 5/32 Music wire.
I turn it down to .112 on the ends then run the 4-40 die on it in the lath chuck with the wire in the tail stock drill chuck.
Makes a nice big fail proof rod.

 

[Ray Sametz]

Dave, I would put a smooth taper where it necks down. A sharp 90* is more prone to breaking. OMHO

 

[dwilfong]

Dave, I would put a smooth taper where it necks down. A sharp 90* is more prone to breaking. OMHO

I was thinking the same thing when I looked at it again in the pic.
I have a different tool to try on it to make the cut.

 

[dr gary turner]

I use stainless steal welding rod. No corrosion

 

[dwilfong]

Dave, I would put a smooth taper where it necks down. A sharp 90* is more prone to breaking. OMHO

Better..............

 

[Ray Sametz]