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Paul Traufler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Messages
703
I have a older Eagle 21 hull and it has the running gear on it, I want to see if I can get parts for this hardware but I do not know who makes it. The rudder hinge has some "slop" in it and I may need to replace it. Would like a new rudder blade also just in case. The strut is fine but I expect at some point I will need bearings for it, looks like standard off the shelf stuff will work for that, does anyone know who makes this strut? The flex shaft (motor end) is a square drive also, not easy to find collets for that. Thanks.
 
Paul;

contact areomarine for the square drive collets.

www.areomarinerc.com

the rudder looks to be a very old Tidewater unit. (no longer inbusiness) (but a speedmaster blade can be made to fit it)

the strut , am not sure, any idea as to what kind of bearings are in teh strut?

Carl
 
Octura is a good source for needle bearings and lead teflon bushings. They also have square drive collets.

Looks like your shaft may be a hardened shaft since there are no threads, so maybe you have needle bearings in that strut.

Their phone number is 847-674-7351.
 
Octura also has thrust bearings, which you may need to replace eventually if you keep the square drive.
 
Thanks guys, I'll pull the shaft to see what bearings are in the strut. I'm not so worried about the strut, the rudder has too much play in it I think. I guess I will replace it at some point.
 
Ok the bearings are a two needle bearings and a ball thrust bearing. The shaft is just a 3/16" by ~4" long with 3 flat spots, 1 for the flex ferrul, 1 for the drive dog, and the 1 on the end to hold the prop on. I recall all these bearings are Octura parts. I will order up some new bearings soon.
 
Thanks guys, I'll pull the shaft to see what bearings are in the strut. I'm not so worried about the strut, the rudder has too much play in it I think. I guess I will replace it at some point.
Octura may have bushings to tighten up your rudder too.
 
Ok where do you guys get Octura stuff from? Not a direct home page I can find.
Unfortunately, they are old school. I send them a check and they send the parts when the check is received. Otherwise, most of the typical vendors have the props, drive dogs, and such. Not sure about needle bearings as most use simple brass now. My last prop order was from rossisales.com. My LHS has some Octura stuff too.
 
Paul

I run a square drive in my rigger also. I get my drive from MECO The company that makes the K&B now. Real nice unit small and light.http://www.mecoa.com/acc/marine/index.htm#balljoint

You will not be able to remove the cable if you use lead bushings or needle bearings. I have tried both what a pain. Now I use brass insert. It will come out with the cable. Also tried the 3 piece thrust bearings. Thy will cut a grove in the shaft. Now I use a Teflon washer.

You will also have to bore out the collet that holds the cable in. It will not slip over the square end.

Areomarine made the cable for mine.

Just some tips from some one who has bin there.

David
 
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Paul

I run a square drive in my rigger also. I get my drive from MECO The company that makes the K&B now. Real nice unit small and light.http://www.mecoa.com/acc/marine/index.htm#balljoint

You will not be able to remove the cable if you use lead bushings or needle bearings. I have tried both what a pain. Now I use brass insert. It will come out with the cable. Also tried the 3 piece thrust bearings. Thy will cut a grove in the shaft. Now I use a Teflon washer.

You will also have to bore out the collet that holds the cable in. It will not slip over the square end.

Areomarine made the cable for mine.

Just some tips from some one who has bin there.

David
While doing some web surfing I ran across the brass insert, was not sure what it was for. So who sells these? And I assume you may have to cut them to length to fit a strut?

Thanks.
 
Paul

I run a square drive in my rigger also. I get my drive from MECO The company that makes the K&B now. Real nice unit small and light.http://www.mecoa.com/acc/marine/index.htm#balljoint

You will not be able to remove the cable if you use lead bushings or needle bearings. I have tried both what a pain. Now I use brass insert. It will come out with the cable. Also tried the 3 piece thrust bearings. Thy will cut a grove in the shaft. Now I use a Teflon washer.

You will also have to bore out the collet that holds the cable in. It will not slip over the square end.

Areomarine made the cable for mine.

Just some tips from some one who has bin there.

David
While doing some web surfing I ran across the brass insert, was not sure what it was for. So who sells these? And I assume you may have to cut them to length to fit a strut?

Thanks.
A lot of company's sell the inserts. I use the speed master.

You don't need to cut any thing it will slip right in to the stuffing tube. Just run the tube all the way threw the strut to the end and the brass bushing will slip right in to the tube. Easy set up.
 
Paul

I run a square drive in my rigger also. I get my drive from MECO The company that makes the K&B now. Real nice unit small and light.http://www.mecoa.com/acc/marine/index.htm#balljoint

You will not be able to remove the cable if you use lead bushings or needle bearings. I have tried both what a pain. Now I use brass insert. It will come out with the cable. Also tried the 3 piece thrust bearings. Thy will cut a grove in the shaft. Now I use a Teflon washer.

You will also have to bore out the collet that holds the cable in. It will not slip over the square end.

Areomarine made the cable for mine.

Just some tips from some one who has bin there.

David
While doing some web surfing I ran across the brass insert, was not sure what it was for. So who sells these? And I assume you may have to cut them to length to fit a strut?

Thanks.
A lot of company's sell the inserts. I use the speed master.

You don't need to cut any thing it will slip right in to the stuffing tube. Just run the tube all the way threw the strut to the end and the brass bushing will slip right in to the tube. Easy set up.
O.K., I am missing something. Is it possible to run a square drive setup without having a flex cable that uses a flex ferrule? The flex ferrule is soldered to the end of the square drive flex cable and then the prop shaft is secured to the ferrule with set screws. The ferrule also keeps the whole cable/shaft assembly from sliding out through the strut since the flex cable is not attached to the engine collet. It just slides into the collet.

I have a square drive setup on my Skater .82.
 
Paul

I run a square drive in my rigger also. I get my drive from MECO The company that makes the K&B now. Real nice unit small and light.http://www.mecoa.com/acc/marine/index.htm#balljoint

You will not be able to remove the cable if you use lead bushings or needle bearings. I have tried both what a pain. Now I use brass insert. It will come out with the cable. Also tried the 3 piece thrust bearings. Thy will cut a grove in the shaft. Now I use a Teflon washer.

You will also have to bore out the collet that holds the cable in. It will not slip over the square end.

Areomarine made the cable for mine.

Just some tips from some one who has bin there.

David
I am confused on this. I have not had any of these problems with lead teflon bushings, needle bearings, and thrust bearings. You do need to run hardened prop shafts with needle bearings and it might help with the thrust bearings too. Confused on boring out the collet too. A 3/16" square drive cable should slide right into a 3/16" sqaure drive engine collet.

One problem with needle bearings are that they require more maintenance.
 
Paul

I run a square drive in my rigger also. I get my drive from MECO The company that makes the K&B now. Real nice unit small and light.http://www.mecoa.com/acc/marine/index.htm#balljoint

You will not be able to remove the cable if you use lead bushings or needle bearings. I have tried both what a pain. Now I use brass insert. It will come out with the cable. Also tried the 3 piece thrust bearings. Thy will cut a grove in the shaft. Now I use a Teflon washer.

You will also have to bore out the collet that holds the cable in. It will not slip over the square end.

Areomarine made the cable for mine.

Just some tips from some one who has bin there.

David
While doing some web surfing I ran across the brass insert, was not sure what it was for. So who sells these? And I assume you may have to cut them to length to fit a strut?

Thanks.
A lot of company's sell the inserts. I use the speed master.

You don't need to cut any thing it will slip right in to the stuffing tube. Just run the tube all the way threw the strut to the end and the brass bushing will slip right in to the tube. Easy set up.
O.K., I am missing something. Is it possible to run a square drive setup without having a flex cable that uses a flex ferrule? The flex ferrule is soldered to the end of the square drive flex cable and then the prop shaft is secured to the ferrule with set screws. The ferrule also keeps the whole cable/shaft assembly from sliding out through the strut since the flex cable is not attached to the engine collet. It just slides into the collet.

I have a square drive setup on my Skater .82.
Yes you have a cable made to the lengh you need and put a clamping collet on the cable at the end nearest the eng. About 1/8" gap to the tube with the prop pushed up against the strut. This will keep it from coming out when you stop or let off the throttle.

Like I said you need to use a brass bushing in the strut it will come out with the cable. The square end will not pull threw a lead or needle bushing. I had to remove the strut to lube. What a pain setting the strut every time you lube the cable.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Paul

I run a square drive in my rigger also. I get my drive from MECO The company that makes the K&B now. Real nice unit small and light.http://www.mecoa.com/acc/marine/index.htm#balljoint

You will not be able to remove the cable if you use lead bushings or needle bearings. I have tried both what a pain. Now I use brass insert. It will come out with the cable. Also tried the 3 piece thrust bearings. Thy will cut a grove in the shaft. Now I use a Teflon washer.

You will also have to bore out the collet that holds the cable in. It will not slip over the square end.

Areomarine made the cable for mine.

Just some tips from some one who has bin there.

David
While doing some web surfing I ran across the brass insert, was not sure what it was for. So who sells these? And I assume you may have to cut them to length to fit a strut?

Thanks.
A lot of company's sell the inserts. I use the speed master.

You don't need to cut any thing it will slip right in to the stuffing tube. Just run the tube all the way threw the strut to the end and the brass bushing will slip right in to the tube. Easy set up.
O.K., I am missing something. Is it possible to run a square drive setup without having a flex cable that uses a flex ferrule? The flex ferrule is soldered to the end of the square drive flex cable and then the prop shaft is secured to the ferrule with set screws. The ferrule also keeps the whole cable/shaft assembly from sliding out through the strut since the flex cable is not attached to the engine collet. It just slides into the collet.

I have a square drive setup on my Skater .82.
Yes you have a cable made to the lengh you need and put a clamping collet on the cable at the end nearest the eng. About 1/8" gap to the tube with the prop pushed up against the strut. This will keep it from coming out when you stop or let off the throttle.

Like I said you need to use a brass bushing in the strut it will come out with the cable. The square end will not pull threw a lead or needle bushing. I had to remove the strut to lube. What a pain setting the strut every time you lube the cable.
O.K., I understand now. I have not seen a square drive setup like that. Thanks for the pictures, they helped. That setup is nicer than my flex furrele setup because it is allot easier to remove the cable for greasing.
 
Paul

I run a square drive in my rigger also. I get my drive from MECO The company that makes the K&B now. Real nice unit small and light.http://www.mecoa.com/acc/marine/index.htm#balljoint

You will not be able to remove the cable if you use lead bushings or needle bearings. I have tried both what a pain. Now I use brass insert. It will come out with the cable. Also tried the 3 piece thrust bearings. Thy will cut a grove in the shaft. Now I use a Teflon washer.

You will also have to bore out the collet that holds the cable in. It will not slip over the square end.

Areomarine made the cable for mine.

Just some tips from some one who has bin there.

David
While doing some web surfing I ran across the brass insert, was not sure what it was for. So who sells these? And I assume you may have to cut them to length to fit a strut?

Thanks.
A lot of company's sell the inserts. I use the speed master.

You don't need to cut any thing it will slip right in to the stuffing tube. Just run the tube all the way threw the strut to the end and the brass bushing will slip right in to the tube. Easy set up.
O.K., I am missing something. Is it possible to run a square drive setup without having a flex cable that uses a flex ferrule? The flex ferrule is soldered to the end of the square drive flex cable and then the prop shaft is secured to the ferrule with set screws. The ferrule also keeps the whole cable/shaft assembly from sliding out through the strut since the flex cable is not attached to the engine collet. It just slides into the collet.

I have a square drive setup on my Skater .82.
Yes you have a cable made to the length you need and put a clamping Colet on the cable at the end nearest the eng. About 1/8" gap to the tube with the prop pushed up against the strut. This will keep it from coming out when you stop or let off the throttle.

Like I said you need to use a brass bushing in the strut it will come out with the cable. The square end will not pull threw a lead or needle bushing. I had to remove the strut to lube. What a pain setting the strut every time you lube the cable.
O.K., I understand now. I have not seen a square drive setup like that. Thanks for the pictures, they helped. That setup is nicer than my flex furrele setup because it is allot easier to remove the cable for greasing.
Yes I tried the needle bearings and the lead Teflon. The Teflon is the lesser amount of drag but you can not pull the square end of the cable threw it.

This is a compromise between service ability and the least amount of drag. Real easy to service.

Now if some one would make a Teflon coated brass insert we would have it all.
 
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