I screwed up! How Do I Fix It?

[Russell Bear]

I flush it through the carb and exhaust. I've never put any in the water jacket. Maybe that explains it :blink: :blink:

 

[Bart Drieghe]

Yep , that explains it , there's always some water left in the cooling jacket .

And i hope u know that WD40 isn't the best after run oil too <_< :blink:

Don't go using stainless , Mauro kills you for that lol , use the black ones .

Bart

(lol yay seven posts already lol )

 

[Don Ferrette]

Ok time to share -

My method- flush engine with WD40 thru throat of carb & out of glow plug hole. Don't hold the starter on as you do this, use short bursts. Flush WD40 in reverse thru water jacket until you see the WD coming out the end of rudder blade (or whatever your water pick up is). Tip the boat to drain excess out of exhaust. Next the after run oil. My special blend is 50% Marvel Air Tool Oil (NOT Marvel Mystery Oil, BIG difference) & 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid or ATF. Water (moisture) is an air tools worst enemy & air tool oil offers excellent clinging properties. I put some thru carb throat & some thru glow plug hole & turn motor over by hand for about 15 - 20 seconds. That's it! Oh BTW- I use a fitting that screws into the glow plug hole with a piece of water line on it that you can attach to your water fitting on water jacket so WD40 goes out of head & thru water jacket. Helps cut down on the amount of WD40 you go thru. I stock these "blow plugs" as they are known if anyone is interested. $5 each. So there ya go ...

 

[Russell Bear]

Thanks Don, I will start using your method next time I'm out. I do use the Prather after run oil. I don't know whats in it, but it seems to work. I will mix up a batch of your 50/50 mixture to use. It's bound to be cheaper by the quart.

 

[Roy Munoz]

Russell The thread size on those bolts are 6-32..I replace all of the ones on my CMB 67,s head bolts ... and on the drum houseing..The ones holding the carb are metric..Can't remember the size of hand..

 

[Russell Bear]

Cool, Thanks Roy.

 

[nitrotoys]

You can also use plain air tool oil.

Some mix, and others dont.

WD40 gets the moisture out and then the after run oil keeps bearings from rusting as nitro will cause that.

NT

 

[Joe_Knesek]

Don, does anyone make a blow plug for a Turbo head?

 

[Don Ferrette]

You can also use plain air tool oil.Some mix, and others dont.

WD40 gets the moisture out and then the after run oil keeps bearings from rusting as nitro will cause that.

NT

The reason I add the ATF is air tool oil by itself has very low viscosity, the ATF bumps that up for better dry start protection.

 

[Don Ferrette]

Don, does anyone make a blow plug for a Turbo head?

None that I've ever seen. :unsure:

 

[Tony Jacuzzi]

Don, does anyone make a blow plug for a Turbo head?

Heh Joe, although I dont use turbo plugs I do use a"blow plug" made from an old MC-9 with the elctrode taken out and a a short piece of brass tubing "green loctited" in. Then a length of fuel tubing onto the brass and into an old pop can or whatever to catch the afterun mist. This setup worked all of last season very well.. TJ

 

[Geraghty]

This is a good place to pass on some experience.

I know Andy Brown has faced this problem because we have talked about this many times before.

If you have a headbolt that even begins to argue or if you round out the allen head hole in the headbolt ,don't panic and start removing it with brute force and awkwardness!.

Drill the heads off the the headbolts with a drill just big enough to remove the head from the shaft.A drill just a hair larger than the hex wrench needed for the headbolt usually works great.

After you drill all the heads off, remove the water jacket.You will see a generous stub of the headbolt will be left sticking up out of the block to work with.Later you can get on this stub with pliers or very small vise grips to back out the stub.

[Hint:Snap-on makes a very small plier with jaws that resemble a crab pincher.Get a pair of these.It will be one of the best tools you will have in your toolbox.If you want a digital photo of these send me an e-mail and I will forward it to you. ]

PB Blaster is perfect for soaking or loosening parts.That is the best penetrating oil I have ever used.That stuff is absolutely amazin'!

Apply the PB Blaster to the headbolt stub and block and let it sit for a day or two.

Andy and I have done several motors from offshore locations,such as Bermuda,Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands.These motors are run almost exclusively in saltwater.

Aluminum motors run in saltwater are an absolute screaming bitch to get apart.PB Blaster,patience,lots of heat and those Snap-on pliers are the best tools to use to get these motors apart.

Before I re-assemble a motor I treat the headbolts with Corrosion-X and put a very very "small" amount of anti-seize on the new headbolts.Not only do the headbolts torque up better but the next time the motor comes apart the headbolt will almost literally fall out of the the motor with ease.

I treat every headbolt I install with Corrosion-X and anti-seize.It just makes life so much easier for the next guy who takes the motor apart.

 

[nitrotoys]

Good tip about drilling off the hex heads.

and about the preventive on the bolts when putting it tougher, you must think about the next time it comes apart. antiseize works well on everything that comes in contact with water and corroision.

for those that have never used it before, get some on your hand and try and wash it off.

I think don and andy on this sight is great.

and to all others on here, I have learned alot from everyone here.

 

[Geraghty]

Something I forgot!

Stainless steel headbolts are junk.They are great for chemical resistance but mechanically are sub-standard.

Allenhead SS cap screws are very soft and they don't torque up in tension worth a damn.

Even low grade carbon steel capscrews are mechanically a much better choice for holding something together with even torque requirements.

Treat a carbon steel cap screw with Corrosion-X and anti-seize and you have a much better headbolt installation.

 

[Geraghty]

test

 

[Ed Radz]

Read you 5 by 5 Rod!

 

[Don Ferrette]

Forgot about the anti seize stuff. Rod's absolutely right, very wise to assemble an engine with, that sh*t sticks to everything! A number of years ago I was assembling the engine for my total resto'd '71 Vette (sold it, wish I still had it ) when my little nephew came over to see what uncle Don was doing. Well I didn't see him pick up one of the head bolts pre treated with anti seize. Spent the next hour & a half cleaning up anti sieze all thru the house everywhere he touched........... <_<

 

[Russell Bear]

What's the best anti-seize compound to use?

 

[Russell Bear]

Stainless steel headbolts are junk.They are great for chemical resistance but mechanically are sub-standard.Allenhead SS cap screws are very soft and they don't torque up in tension worth a damn.

Even low grade carbon steel capscrews are mechanically a much better choice for holding something together with even torque requirements.

Thanks Rod,

I was leary about the SS bolts . I will get the others.

Thanks.......

 

[Don Ferrette]

What's the best anti-seize compound to use?

I've used Permatex for years. Available any most decent auto parts stores.