I need help with my new boat.

[rcboatlover]

Hey I hope you get it done soon! Some times I find that I have to make my self go down to the work shop to build on a boat. It's easy to push them to the side when it gets to the point where you have to install the radio gear and then tare it all apart to paint. I hate painting, and figuring out how I want to rig every thing.

To answer your questions...

1. I don't know what it weighs, but I diden't worry about weight when I built it. I even added some pieces of pool noodles to the front before I glued down the top. Even thought I diden't worry about weight, every one sayes it's light when they pick it up, so I must have done something right. :lol: 2lb 10oz doesn't sound bad to me.

2. The boat handled really well. I have trim tabs for it, but I don't see the need to install them. I installed a double fined skeg from Marine Specialties. The instructions said to put it under the flywheel, but I moved mine an inch or so closer to the transom because there wasn't any room under my flywheel for a nut and washer.

3. I diden't see any prop walk, but the engine only turns 10k max RPM. A .67 is going to be pretty big for that boat, but you can always change it if you don't like how it handles. I always thought a K&B sport .40 would be perfect for it. I see them on E-Bay all the time for a pretty good price.

Here is a picture of my boat. Someone was nice enough to take one this weekend and post it for me. He has some more, but couldn't get them to post.

I used SpeedMaster Hardware and a piece of brake like for the stuffing tube. The flex shaft is the type that has the prop shaft welded to it, so I diden't have to use a flex furel to connect the two. There is a 6oz tank for fuel, and a 2oz tank to collect old oil that drains from the back of the engine. (It's a four stroke thing) My header diden't come in yet, so the muffler is connected with a little brass connecter. I should have the right manifold this week.

Hope all that helps, just let me know if you have any other questions!

Dale P.

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[Flyin Rat Sass]

HEY DANNY surface drive is ok the important thing is to have a small upward curve in the bottom of the hull (1/16 or less) from the transom forward about 6 or 8 inches. this allows the boat to ride less wet (a flat hull keeps the bow down)and gives you more controll of the attitude the hull will ride at.having run these hulls in the past i have found that the center trim tabs should be higher than the corners to help bring the bow down a little in the corners heres a pic of the new sk i started building (but got shelved for the glass dragboats i've been building instead)

sorry bout the size

My boat

My boat pic 2

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[dsl_raven]

Reminds me of some of the bass boats you see around here. Metal flake galore. I don't know how they can fish from them on a sunny day

Anyhow - keep at it. I'll be begging for help on here soon Joys of outboard mounting.

 

[dannyual767]

rcboatlover, thanks for your answers! I always like as much info as I can get. I'm going to get the same Marine Specialties double skeg as you've got. I've got these two .67 engines and they're going to have to do since money is quite tight now. It's going to be hard to spring for the hardware !

Flyin Rat Sass, originally I was thinking of having the flexcable exit the transom like you see on the fast racing monos. I think that I'll just have the cable exit the bottom and make up and down strut adjustments to find the best prop height. If prop walk gets bad as I get the prop up, I'll just lower it back down some. I want the boat to be fast but, of course, it's no race boat!