MarkScott
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2014
- Messages
- 3,087
As promised in an outboard thread, below are plans to make a hot wire into into a table top cutter. Since I did not find any registered trademark on these sheets, thought I'd pass it along. I'll post pics when I make this conversion... Which will be this weekend.
Ask if you have questions... :
Mark..
OB Nut Racing: Beware now, this is my first HOT WIRE act!
HOT WIRE FOAM CUTTER TABLE TOP CONVERTER PLANS
Will allow you to easily convert your Hand Held Foam Cutter into a Table Top Foam Cutter for under $5 in parts from your local hardware store.
Parts List
* One 12" high gloss ceramic floor tile, smooth texture.
* Four stick on rubber feet, 1/2" or greater in height.
* One 10-24x3/4" long, pan head bolt (the shallower the head the better)
* One 10-24 wing nut.
* 1" wide x 6" long x 1/16" thick (apx) self adhesive single sided foam tape, weather stripping or rubber.
Tools List
* Drill or drill press (recommended).
* 3/8" Tile and glass drill bit (do not use a masonry drill bit)
* 13/64 High Speed Steel drill bit
* Marking pen or pencil
* 18" ruler or yard stick
* Dispensing syringe, spray bottle squirt gun or sponge and some water
* Two large spring loaded plastic clamps (optional)
* A flat file for metal (optional)
FOR YOUR SAFETY
As with any tool, improper use may cause serious harm to life or property. Follow all tool manufacture recommendations.
Please use good judgement, known safety procedures, and common sense when using, operating, or servicing any tool(s) or equipment.
GETTING STARTED
Before starting, read the plans entirely so you will understand the process, then read them again in case you might have missed something. This will save you a lot of time, headaches, and frustration in the long run.
Find the center of the tile by drawing two diagonal lines (corner to corner) to form a large "X" on the tile.
Where the lines cross in the center of the tile is where you will drill the first hole.
Measure the length of one side, divide the length in half, and place a mark on the edge of the tile.
From the mark you just made, measure in towards the center of the tile by 1" and place another mark as this will be the second hole you will need to drill in the tile.
You will be drilling a hole in the center of the tile for the hot wire to eventually feed through. When drilling ceramic, you will need to keep the drill be wet. This allows the bit to stay cool when drilling and makes for a smooth hole. Be sure to apply enough water all the times when drilling so that it appears "milky". You don't want to have something that looks like clay.
Clamp or weigh down the ceramic tile so that it won't move when you are drilling. You could just ask a friend to help too. (where's PJ when ya need him!)
Using your drill press and the tile drill bit, drill a hole in the center of the tile. Making sure to keep the bit wet at all times and slow down when you're almost through the tile, or you will 'chip out' the underside. Try to keep the drill as straight as possible and don't force the drill, tile bits do their job very well.
Complete the process again for the second hole in the tile near the edge. When you have finished drilling both holes in the tile, go ahead and wash the tile under under running water. Allow it to completely dry.
Unplug the Hand Held Foam Cutter and completely remove the cutting wire, two screws and washers.
Place the tile upside down on a flat surface. Place one arm of the cutter on the tile so that the tip of the cutting arm is half covering the center hole in the tile. Place a mark on the cutting arm right where the hole on the tile that is closet to the edge meets the cutting arm.
Using the 13/64" drill bit, drill a hole in the center of the cutting arm where you placed the mark in the previous step.
Use a file to remove burrs.
Place the foam tape or weather stripping on the bottom of the tile. This provides grip to the cutting arm to prevent it from slipping or moving sideways.
Place the four self adhesive rubber feet to the bottom of the tile within 1" from the edge of the four corners.
Place the tile face up on the table and align the hole in the cutting arm with the hole on the tile closet to the edge. Insert the bolt through the cutting arm, then through the tile and screw on the wing nut being sure not to over tighten. If the wing nut is over tighten, the tile could chip or break.
Be sure to align the tip of the cutting arm with the hole in the center of the tile.
Replace the screws in the cutting arm and install the cutting wire per the instructions.
That's it...
Ask if you have questions... :
Mark..
OB Nut Racing: Beware now, this is my first HOT WIRE act!
HOT WIRE FOAM CUTTER TABLE TOP CONVERTER PLANS
Will allow you to easily convert your Hand Held Foam Cutter into a Table Top Foam Cutter for under $5 in parts from your local hardware store.
Parts List
* One 12" high gloss ceramic floor tile, smooth texture.
* Four stick on rubber feet, 1/2" or greater in height.
* One 10-24x3/4" long, pan head bolt (the shallower the head the better)
* One 10-24 wing nut.
* 1" wide x 6" long x 1/16" thick (apx) self adhesive single sided foam tape, weather stripping or rubber.
Tools List
* Drill or drill press (recommended).
* 3/8" Tile and glass drill bit (do not use a masonry drill bit)
* 13/64 High Speed Steel drill bit
* Marking pen or pencil
* 18" ruler or yard stick
* Dispensing syringe, spray bottle squirt gun or sponge and some water
* Two large spring loaded plastic clamps (optional)
* A flat file for metal (optional)
FOR YOUR SAFETY
As with any tool, improper use may cause serious harm to life or property. Follow all tool manufacture recommendations.
Please use good judgement, known safety procedures, and common sense when using, operating, or servicing any tool(s) or equipment.
GETTING STARTED
Before starting, read the plans entirely so you will understand the process, then read them again in case you might have missed something. This will save you a lot of time, headaches, and frustration in the long run.
Find the center of the tile by drawing two diagonal lines (corner to corner) to form a large "X" on the tile.
Where the lines cross in the center of the tile is where you will drill the first hole.
Measure the length of one side, divide the length in half, and place a mark on the edge of the tile.
From the mark you just made, measure in towards the center of the tile by 1" and place another mark as this will be the second hole you will need to drill in the tile.
You will be drilling a hole in the center of the tile for the hot wire to eventually feed through. When drilling ceramic, you will need to keep the drill be wet. This allows the bit to stay cool when drilling and makes for a smooth hole. Be sure to apply enough water all the times when drilling so that it appears "milky". You don't want to have something that looks like clay.
Clamp or weigh down the ceramic tile so that it won't move when you are drilling. You could just ask a friend to help too. (where's PJ when ya need him!)
Using your drill press and the tile drill bit, drill a hole in the center of the tile. Making sure to keep the bit wet at all times and slow down when you're almost through the tile, or you will 'chip out' the underside. Try to keep the drill as straight as possible and don't force the drill, tile bits do their job very well.
Complete the process again for the second hole in the tile near the edge. When you have finished drilling both holes in the tile, go ahead and wash the tile under under running water. Allow it to completely dry.
Unplug the Hand Held Foam Cutter and completely remove the cutting wire, two screws and washers.
Place the tile upside down on a flat surface. Place one arm of the cutter on the tile so that the tip of the cutting arm is half covering the center hole in the tile. Place a mark on the cutting arm right where the hole on the tile that is closet to the edge meets the cutting arm.
Using the 13/64" drill bit, drill a hole in the center of the cutting arm where you placed the mark in the previous step.
Use a file to remove burrs.
Place the foam tape or weather stripping on the bottom of the tile. This provides grip to the cutting arm to prevent it from slipping or moving sideways.
Place the four self adhesive rubber feet to the bottom of the tile within 1" from the edge of the four corners.
Place the tile face up on the table and align the hole in the cutting arm with the hole on the tile closet to the edge. Insert the bolt through the cutting arm, then through the tile and screw on the wing nut being sure not to over tighten. If the wing nut is over tighten, the tile could chip or break.
Be sure to align the tip of the cutting arm with the hole in the center of the tile.
Replace the screws in the cutting arm and install the cutting wire per the instructions.
That's it...
