Horizontal Stabilizer

[Duck899]

As far as set up of the rear horizontal stabizer, it is best to set up the boat at where it runs. I use a glass table top on my bench and set the strut close and then set the wing at zero degrees incidence. At 60 mph it will have some effect. Test the theory by holding your hand flat out your car window at 60mph. I find that just the weight of the verticals and horizontal has alot of effect on boat ride too.

 

[harvknox]

I'm a newb to scale so I might ask a dumb question or 2 but what's the reasoning in creating lift on the rear transom. The way I'm building mine it's going to be light in the transom. I'm building a T-6 by the way.

Sam,we've discussed your T-6 previously,which is an ML Boatworks scaled down version of my Gas Scale,or mine is a scaled up version of your 1/8 scale.Whatever.I think you are going to find the boat to be somewhat tail heavy.I believe you are thinking in the right direction to keep your construction light in the rear.I have cut out the centers of the tub sides rear of frame #5,which only saves ounces,but it's toward the rear.I would also try to keep the layup light for the rear wing and verticals,if you go glass.Also choose the thinnest gauge aluminum you feel is practical for a turbine tube.Mine is .020" which I needed to break the diameter instead of roll.A rolled tube can be thinner.The real T-6 turbine tube has over 60 breaks,which can make you crazy doing one.I still haven't recovered.I tried slightly different wing angles from nominal on my Phil Thomas glass 1/8 scale T-5,and it did not make much difference.Canard setting did make a difference,but it depends on boat set up,CG,strut depth,prop,etc.

There are a lot of photos of the T-6 at max speed going straight.When you look at these photos,you will notice that the boat is running almost level,riding on the rear edge of the sponsons and the rear ride pads,with air under the entire center.I don't think the boat can be tail heavy and do this

Harvey.

 

[Mike Cathey]

Zero the wing and make your ride adjustments with strut adjustments and a little weight if necessary. Model boats have a huge advantage over the real boats because we do have adjustable struts, whereas the big boats do not and have to adjust boat ride by adjusting wings and using different props or making mods to the running surfaces.

From experience I can tell you that having too much lift in the horizontal will cause the boat to nose over and stuff if it flies a long way through the air (if you look at stop action video of an 1/8th scale they will sometimes travel 10 feet or more over the water after hitting rough water) which usually results in the loss of wings (and cowling) anyway.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

I'm a newb to scale so I might ask a dumb question or 2 but what's the reasoning in creating lift on the rear transom. The way I'm building mine it's going to be light in the transom. I'm building a T-6 by the way.

Sam,we've discussed your T-6 previously,which is an ML Boatworks scaled down version of my Gas Scale,or mine is a scaled up version of your 1/8 scale.Whatever.I think you are going to find the boat to be somewhat tail heavy.I believe you are thinking in the right direction to keep your construction light in the rear.I have cut out the centers of the tub sides rear of frame #5,which only saves ounces,but it's toward the rear.I would also try to keep the layup light for the rear wing and verticals,if you go glass.Also choose the thinnest gauge aluminum you feel is practical for a turbine tube.Mine is .020" which I needed to break the diameter instead of roll.A rolled tube can be thinner.The real T-6 turbine tube has over 60 breaks,which can make you crazy doing one.I still haven't recovered.I tried slightly different wing angles from nominal on my Phil Thomas glass 1/8 scale T-5,and it did not make much difference.Canard setting did make a difference,but it depends on boat set up,CG,strut depth,prop,etc.

There are a lot of photos of the T-6 at max speed going straight.When you look at these photos,you will notice that the boat is running almost level,riding on the rear edge of the sponsons and the rear ride pads,with air under the entire center.I don't think the boat can be tail heavy and do this

Harvey.

Sweet. I'll cut those sections out next time I work on it to lightened up the rear. Thanks. Save enough ounces it turns into pounds.

 

[hugh hargett]

Nice thread fellas! Mike C. Id rather run the strut close to zero if it allows and make ride height adjustments with the wing if possible may not be...... Ill try both ways I guess.

 

[Brian Schymik]

airfoil shape

zero incidence

The wing, as I've believed, is very important as an attitude adjuster. But more so when the boat is getting out of shape. If the nose is rising, the wing will have a positive incidence and thus more lift, putting the nose back down. When the boat is riding flat, I want the wing to be flat, and thus no drag