HITTING 90 HEAT RACE TRIM

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tell us how andy ??
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I have been... for years! Pay close attention to the hints I leave laying around. If I tell you straight up it will take all of the fun out of it.

I spent 2 hours on the phone with David Friday. In a short time he got knowlege that took me years to figure out.
 
tell us how andy ??
-
I have been... for years! Pay close attention to the hints I leave laying around. If I tell you straight up it will take all of the fun out of it.

I spent 2 hours on the phone with David Friday. In a short time he got knowlege that took me years to figure out.
Let no one say you do not share!

I heard every thing you said. ;)

The only one that lived is the one Norm heat treated.

Have a kiln and the recipe now will see what happens.

Thanks Andy for spending the time with me.

David
 
Hey Guys,

I am out of town on vacation in DC but had to sneak into the forum. The day was nasty for testing and yes the boat was pulling to the right. I kept it slow and only opened it up on the turn to the far right. I had a gps strapped to the boom tubes and it was causing the boat to pull. We got 90 on the gun and 89 on the gps. Prior to the Brandon race I ran the boat with these same props on a calm day with very flat water. The speed was unreal to the point where I blew the boat off the water in zero wind half way down the back stretch. I hydro locked both engines and bent rods and wrist pins. Had quite a mess to repair but was happy as can be with how it performed. Bottom line is that I am well into the low 90s in flat water and well into the mid to high 80s in rough racing waters. The 89/90 mph we got was in very rough waters and in a very short distance. As for the exotic 1667 comment it came from the work on the props. When I cut these props I put all the tricks into them. They are bar cut, Texas cut, re shaped to the point where they look nothing like a 1667. Bottom line is that I was not able to get H48s so I had to experiment with the 16 series and it worked out pretty good. See you guys soon.
 
Albert,

I heard about you disasterous blow off. We missed you at Brondon because of that. Glad you've got it all back together now. And yes the boat is looking good!

We'll see you in PB.
 
Hey guys,

Read comments on wind. I mentioned to Bret that in order to get the correct result we needed to run in both directions and get the average of the two. Nevertheless I can tell you that prior to this run I ran it in dead calm conditions and the boat blew over half way down the back stretch. The engines were Reving so high that I swear I heard them two stage. I am normally not impressed by speed after flying rc jets at over 300 mph but that day the boat was flying. I would guess it was well into the mid 90s. At high 80s this boat is dead stable. It takes a lot to blow a twin Crapshooters off the water and I did it.

Bottom line is that I am well into the mid high 80s in rough water and well into the 90s in dead calm waters. This is the result of the props staying hooked up in the calm water and loosing performance in the rough water. I will do more testing now that the boat is back together and will post more results as I get them.

Thanks to Andy, Mark and Stu for helping me with all the tips that cost them sooooo much test time at the lake.
 
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Andy,

I did listen to you and built these props based on our conversations at the Miami race. Thanks for your help. BTW, you got two sets of H48 from Walt. Let me know when you have them ready for the twin. don't thin blades too much. I will heat treat them as soon as I get them.
 
tell us how andy ??
-
I have been... for years! Pay close attention to the hints I leave laying around. If I tell you straight up it will take all of the fun out of it.

I spent 2 hours on the phone with David Friday. In a short time he got knowlege that took me years to figure out.
Let no one say you do not share!

I heard every thing you said. ;)

The only one that lived is the one Norm heat treated.

Have a kiln and the recipe now will see what happens.

Thanks Andy for spending the time with me.

David
im going to get all mine heat treated but im going to "TRY" to get Jim Allen to do mine after andy cuts and tweaks them

cool looking props anyways david. im surprised with the power you guys are getting that youre not breaking more untreated blades. Wat up on the stainless props?
 
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David, I seem to recall you had issues with the prop hopping, is that still the case? :huh:
That is why we cut the prop this way to stop it hopping. we got away from this cut and the hop came back.

This cut dose more for the handling than speed. with this cut you can put the boat any where at any time on the course.

Can crawl at no throttle and pop right of.

It is the cut of choice for heat racing "IF" you can keep the blade on.

David
 
Wats needed is for AB to go on and do the stainless cnc's Im willing to pay 100 dollars for a prop.
 
tell us how andy ??
-
I have been... for years! Pay close attention to the hints I leave laying around. If I tell you straight up it will take all of the fun out of it.

I spent 2 hours on the phone with David Friday. In a short time he got knowlege that took me years to figure out.
Let no one say you do not share!

I heard every thing you said. ;)

The only one that lived is the one Norm heat treated.

Have a kiln and the recipe now will see what happens.

Thanks Andy for spending the time with me.

David
im going to get all mine heat treated but im going to "TRY" to get Jim Allen to do mine after andy cuts and tweaks them

cool looking props anyways david. im surprised with the power you guys are getting that youre not breaking more untreated blades. Wat up on the stainless props?
Cast propellers that are to be heat treated, beryllium copper & stainless steel alloys, should be annealed & stress relieved after tweaking, cupping, pitching, etc. Failure to do this can result in changes to the blades when they are heat treated. Ask Tom Foley what can happen. Even as cast propellers should be stress relieved before heat treating. Some propellers that have been highly modified will require several stress relieving procedures before they can be heat treated without distortion taking place.
 
tell us how andy ??
-
I have been... for years! Pay close attention to the hints I leave laying around. If I tell you straight up it will take all of the fun out of it.

I spent 2 hours on the phone with David Friday. In a short time he got knowlege that took me years to figure out.
Let no one say you do not share!

I heard every thing you said. ;)

The only one that lived is the one Norm heat treated.

Have a kiln and the recipe now will see what happens.

Thanks Andy for spending the time with me.

David
im going to get all mine heat treated but im going to "TRY" to get Jim Allen to do mine after andy cuts and tweaks them

cool looking props anyways david. im surprised with the power you guys are getting that youre not breaking more untreated blades. Wat up on the stainless props?
Cast propellers that are to be heat treated, beryllium copper & stainless steel alloys, should be annealed & stress relieved after tweaking, cupping, pitching, etc. Failure to do this can result in changes to the blades when they are heat treated. Ask Tom Foley what can happen. Even as cast propellers should be stress relieved before heat treating. Some propellers that have been highly modified will require several stress relieving procedures before they can be heat treated without distortion taking place.
Yes I did some homebrew heat treating that does strengthen them quite a bit but it seems they change a bit when quenched .i am anxious to get Norm and Marty to do a few for me but been busy with real boat stuff lately ..tis the season !!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
tell us how andy ??
-
I have been... for years! Pay close attention to the hints I leave laying around. If I tell you straight up it will take all of the fun out of it.

I spent 2 hours on the phone with David Friday. In a short time he got knowlege that took me years to figure out.
Let no one say you do not share!

I heard every thing you said. ;)

The only one that lived is the one Norm heat treated.

Have a kiln and the recipe now will see what happens.

Thanks Andy for spending the time with me.

David
im going to get all mine heat treated but im going to "TRY" to get Jim Allen to do mine after andy cuts and tweaks them

cool looking props anyways david. im surprised with the power you guys are getting that youre not breaking more untreated blades. Wat up on the stainless props?
Cast propellers that are to be heat treated, beryllium copper & stainless steel alloys, should be annealed & stress relieved after tweaking, cupping, pitching, etc. Failure to do this can result in changes to the blades when they are heat treated. Ask Tom Foley what can happen. Even as cast propellers should be stress relieved before heat treating. Some propellers that have been highly modified will require several stress relieving procedures before they can be heat treated without distortion taking place.
Yes I did some homebrew heat treating that does strengthen them quite a bit but it seems they change a bit when quenched .i am anxious to get Norm and Marty to do a few for me but been busy with real boat stuff lately ..tis the season !!
The only one that did not break was the one Norm and Marty did.

But have my own kiln now with a digital controller and a good recipe that Stu hooked me up with.

So far no breakage. will keep my fingers crossed.

Quench in oil after a hour at temp. no change in the dimensions.
 
The boat that Andy uses as his Avatar image when he post a comment here on IW was gunned at 87 coming out of the corner in Fremont, CA way back in 2003/2004. That was the last time anyone pulled a gun on me. Same boat Andy took and did 114 in SAWs... soooooo.... uhhhhh... if we were doing it in 2003/4 I am sure someone can do it now. Some may have seen it lapping other Twins twice in New Mexico at the nats in 2003 and passing other noteworthy twins (won't name names) in the corner on the outside in LA in 2004. The same design is consistently running a hair off of 1 minute miles in heat racing trim every heat.

...And that was with MAC .84s.
 

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