Got in the new Aquacraft SV27

[Andrewg]

Radar?

 

[Darin Jordan]

I will say that on the Aquacraft site, the videos... especially the BIG one (38+MB), show the SV27 as being pretty impressive for an out of the box boat... Also gives a decent look at the whole package...

Looks like it's plenty fast as it is... Again, this would be a great... GREAT way... to get more people involved at the Club level in this hobby... We might finally have a difinitive answer to the perpetual "onlooker" question of "how much does one of these boats cost"... Or at least an answer that doesn't shock the $h!t out of them! :huh:

It would immediately fit into P-Mono, and if a spec class gets going, there too... And, from the reports thus far, it sounds like there is room for improvement so it might actually be able to be made somewhat P-Mono competitive... at least at a club racing level...

For those who haven't seen it, here is a link to the videos from Aquacraft:

SMALL (3.4MB) => http://www.aquacraftmodels.com/video/aqub17-large.mpg

LARGE(38MB) => http://video1.hobbico.com/gallery/aqub17-deluxe.mpg

 

[scott7772]

The adjustable strut IMO is not really adjustable. The stuffing tube runs all the way through the strut in one piece making it virtually impossible to adjust the strut in a positive or negative manner.

 

[Darin Jordan]

The adjustable strut IMO is not really adjustable. The stuffing tube runs all the way through the strut in one piece making it virtually impossible to adjust the strut in a positive or negative manner.

Most of these types of "Stinger" struts have a small portion of the stuffing tube extending into the strut (1/4"-1/2" or so...)... Are you saying that Aquacraft extended it ALL the way in?? What is it using for bushings then???

I'll have mine next week... Guess I'll see for myself then... Doesn't seem like a tough issue to overcome, however...

 

[drobie]

Most of these types of "Stinger" struts have a small portion of the stuffing tube extending into the strut (1/4"-1/2" or so...)... Are you saying that Aquacraft extended it ALL the way in?? What is it using for bushings then???

That's true. I just pull the strut off after reading this.

The stuffing tube extends all the way into the strut. It uses a baffled brass bushing like the ones Speedmaster and other use in their struts.

In order to adjust the strut angle, you have to either bend the tube or cut it off.

 

[Darin Jordan]

In order to adjust the strut angle, you have to either bend the tube or cut it off.

Someone making a list to send to Grimracer and Aquacraft for necessary adjustment/enhancements for the release of SuperVee 27 II???

Is this a case where you can trim it down and get the adjustability you need, or is it kind of stuck where you get it??? Definately needs to be abjustable, unless they set it perfectly from the factory...

 

[Pagemaster]

Will this be a place we can modify and still keep "spec"? This is a modification that should be allowed.

 

[Darin Jordan]

Will this be a place we can modify and still keep "spec"? This is a modification that should be allowed.

Well... since there haven't been any rules written... I'd have to say YES... It would be an area where we could allow a mod...

I think once a few of us get these going and try them out... we should be able to put together a very concise and specific list of things that can be done, and should be able to put that into a set of rules...

i.e.: "No modifications, other than those listed below, will be allowed"

1) XXX

2) XXX

3) ...

etc...

Something to that effect...

 

[scott7772]

You can try to bend the tube but good luck. I tried and didn't have much luck, but then again I didn't want to break the fiberblass either. The only other thing I can think of is to cut the tube off where it comes outof the boat and glue it into the strut somehow. The boat definately needs to be trimmed out. My neighbor ran his on a calm lake, little to no wind, and the boat ws out of the water 75% of the time. When he ran it full throttle in a straight line the boat eventually flipped over causing the paint and gel coat to chip. He ran his batteries in the stock postition as well. He may need to put the batteries more towards the front of the boat to weigh it down a little more, especially with the lack of adjustablilty in the strut.

 

[Pagemaster]

When he ran it full throttle in a straight line the boat eventually flipped over causing the paint and gel coat to chip. He ran his batteries in the stock postition as well. He may need to put the batteries more towards the front of the boat to weigh it down a little more, especially with the lack of adjustablilty in the strut.

I was thinking the same thing about the battery placement. The wooden battery try looks glued down pretty well. It looks like work to rip it out. To bad about the paint!

 

[Darin Jordan]

You can try to bend the tube but good luck. I tried and didn't have much luck, but then again I didn't want to break the fiberblass either. The only other thing I can think of is to cut the tube off where it comes outof the boat and glue it into the strut somehow.

I'm wondering if it would work to just trim off the metal portion of the stuffing tube, but keep the teflon extended into the stinger??? Again, without seeing it in person I have no reference... I'll check it out when mine arrives...

Sounds like we'll have plenty of test examples to work this out, however! That may be a first in FE!!

 

[scott7772]

In the boat that i'm looking at, the teflon only extends form the flex hex to about half way through the stuffing tube. So you would have to get a new piece of teflon, which is not a big deal. The problem I see is the opening in the stinger is big enough for the stuffing tube to pass through it, so if you extended a new piece of teflon through the stinger it would be really loose. If you cut the stuffing tube off where it exits the boat and glued the piece of stuffing tube that you cut off into the stinger, then ran the teflon all the way through it may work.

 

[drobie]

It appears as though a trimmed stuffing tube will HAVE to be allowed.

I'll probably simply take a 1/2" or less out of mine at the transom, but leave a section in the stinger.

However, even with the tube trimmed, there is little if any room for adjustability. You can't move the strut tube down, because there is not clearance between it and the strut transom bracket at the bottom.

You can raise it about 1/16".

As it comes, it has a couple of degrees of positive (down) angle built in and the prop hub is about level with the keel, so trim can probably be achieve with batt movements.

Steven, get yourself a Proxxon belt sander, then it won't matter how things are attached to the hull bottom.

 

[Pagemaster]

It appears as though a trimmed stuffing tube will HAVE to be allowed.

I'll probably simply take a 1/2" or less out of mine at the transom, but leave a section in the stinger.

However, even with the tube trimmed, there is little if any room for adjustability. You can't move the strut tube down, because there is not clearance between it and the strut transom bracket at the bottom.

You can raise it about 1/16".

As it comes, it has a couple of degrees of positive (down) angle built in and the prop hub is about level with the keel, so trim can probably be achieve with batt movements.

Steven, get yourself a Proxxon belt sander, then it won't matter how things are attached to the hull bottom.

Mr. Doug please refer to the strut as a strut not a "stinger". Stinger is a Speedmaster product made in the USA.

 

[Darin Jordan]

so if you extended a new piece of teflon through the stinger it would be really loose.

I'm not sure it's necessary for the hard stuffing tube to suround the flex ALL the way to the strut... We have boats in our club where the brass stops at the exit of the hull, and the majority of the length of the flex is just covered with Teflon... This usually provides enough support and damping to keep the flex from whipping, which is what the major concern is...

I'm looking forward to seeing how this all fits together for myself... The engineer in me is ready to come up with a good solution!

By the way... I think sealing the wood is going to be a highly recommended step... I just got my Pro Fisherman down off the shelf, and there was a ton of MOLD growing on the un-treated wood inside! I have it soaking in hot bleach water right now to kill it all! h34r:

 

[Grimracer]

Guys guys guys... WHOW... slow down...

To adjust the strut you just loosen the bolts and tweak the strut.. do you understand.. DO NOT CUT THE BRASS...

It takes a VERY SMALL adjustment to make changes.. heck you only want to make micro adjustments.... no hulk hogan strut adjustments needed...

BTY you are looking at a typical nitro strut setup. We use this for both monos and hydros.. its time to get this into FE as well.

You dont want a floppy strut do you?

Grimracer

 

[scott7772]

Grim, I love the hardware and I don't think that you could ask for a higher quality RTR with the ability to customize or modify. However, the strut that is on mine will not adjust at all. Not 1/16, not 1/32, nothing. Because the stuffing tube is very sturdy and there is an extremely small gap beween the stuffing tube and the hole in the strut, it is impossible to adjust the strut in any way, positive or negaitve.

 

[Darin Jordan]

BTY you are looking at a typical nitro strut setup. We use this for both monos and hydros.. its time to get this into FE as well.

I don't ever see myself using this type of strut for a hydro... but I am planning one for an upcoming mono project... (HOW would this work on a Hydro??? :blink: ... )

I think FE has had some EXCELLENT choices for high quality hardware, or at least it has since I've been involved... Fuller's, Fine, Speedmaster, etc... all good stuff... Glad to see there is another good set to choose from... THANKS!

 

[drobie]

However, the strut that is on mine will not adjust at all. Not 1/16, not 1/32, nothing. Because the stuffing tube is very sturdy and there is an extremely small gap beween the stuffing tube and the hole in the strut, it is impossible to adjust the strut in any way, positive or negaitve.

Ditto on that, Grim. There is no adjustment. None, zero, nada.

That said, I'm going to run it stock tomorrow before I take the knife to it. However, even if a boat appears to run well out-of-the-box, how do you really know without tweaking a little.

Page, I didn't know SM called their strut a Stinger. I just saw the term used here and repeated it.

We use this for both monos and hydros, its time to get this into FE as well.

Pardon me bro' Grim, and with all do respect....but do we need to remind you what powers the fastest rc boat on the planet?

I think there is just as good a chance that you could learn something from us too.

 

[Pagemaster]

I tried to adjust mine, it took alot of pressure to get it to move about 1/32nd in either direction. Seems like to much pressure on the hull.