Futaba S3305 servo

[Sean Bowf]

I am using the standard futaba 3003 servo for the rudder on my .45 speedmaster mono. I have been having problems off and on (while trying to get the motor and hardware in tune) with my boat turning right (torque steer, prop walk, which ever you want to call it).

Just to eliminate the rudder servo as the culprit, I ordered a futaba S3305 high torque servo. I did not read the small print until after I had ordered it. Now that I read the small print, it has a warning about using this servo with NIMH battery packs. It says that current draw may be too high for the battery pack and says to use a NiCAD pack. Well...all the packs I use are NIMH. Is this something to worry about, or will it be OK?? With my mono, I am using a 6V 1600 MAH NIMH pack made from 2/3rds A cells. This is the pack I am using.

Has anyone had a problem running this servo on an NIMH battery pack?? Should I pick up a different servo?? The main reason I chose this servo was because it appears to be a drop in replacement to the 3003...

Sean

 

[P THOMAS]

I am using the standard futaba 3003 servo for the rudder on my .45 speedmaster mono. I have been having problems off and on (while trying to get the motor and hardware in tune) with my boat turning right (torque steer, prop walk, which ever you want to call it).
Just to eliminate the rudder servo as the culprit, I ordered a futaba S3305 high torque servo. I did not read the small print until after I had ordered it. Now that I read the small print, it has a warning about using this servo with NIMH battery packs. It says that current draw may be too high for the battery pack and says to use a NiCAD pack. Well...all the packs I use are NIMH. Is this something to worry about, or will it be OK?? With my mono, I am using a 6V 1400 MAH NIMH pack made from 2/3rds A cells. This is the pack I am using.

Has anyone had a problem running this servo on an NIMH battery pack?? Should I pick up a different servo?? The main reason I chose this servo was because it appears to be a drop in replacement to the 3003...

Sean

Thats news You should be ok but, if they sa so. The nimh usually have more current to give for their size. Maybe that servo will draw too much and burn out quickly on NIMH?

You did right putting in a strong servo in that boat it needs it. Set up the servo link in the inside hole on the arm for max power.

anther good replacement high power servo would be a hitec 645mg

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Sean, all things being correct with the boat, battery pack, and radio.

You will be OK, I use that servo in ALL my scales, running NIMH packs, from 1100MAH to 1600MAH battery packs

Also running it in a 20 MONO with a 900MAH pack with no issues.

Rick

 

[Jerry T]

Sean I am running 3305 servos with 6 volts NICAD and NIMH and have never had a problem. I was running the old 3003 with the same battery packs.

you should be fine.

Jerry

 

[Sean Bowf]

Thanks for the inputs guys. I went ahead and installed it last night and will give it a try. I don't think the servo was my problem, but I hope it was, and that this fixes it.

PT, I will look into the hitec servo next time I do a build. It was hard to pass up a drop in replacement to the current servo. Not a big deal, but I didnt want to have to remake the aluminum servo mount. Thanks for the input.

Thanks again all,

Sean

 

[Sean Bowf]

Just thought I would add some follow-up to this...

I got around to running the boat today, and the servo fixed my torque steer problem and seemed to work fine for multiple runs with the NIMH pack. I think I ran it 4 or 5 times.

Now I gotta figure out my "this boat it too **** fast" problem... Seems like the back of the boat wants to go faster than the front. I guess it is time to start playing with the trim tabs.

Thanks again for the input,

Sean

 

[TCHedOff]

Just thought I would add some follow-up to this...
I got around to running the boat today, and the servo fixed my torque steer problem and seemed to work fine for multiple runs with the NIMH pack. I think I ran it 4 or 5 times.

Now I gotta figure out my "this boat it too **** fast" problem... Seems like the back of the boat wants to go faster than the front. I guess it is time to start playing with the trim tabs.

Thanks again for the input,

Sean

Sean:

I had the opportunity to meet Rod Geraghty last Friday and pick his brains on boat design for @4hrs (and also have had several phone conversations).

He related to me a story about a boat that sounds like it behaved just like yours. He said many years ago, a guy at some race had a mono (and I ASSUME that is what you're speaking of) that the backend would always pass up the front of the boat.... and they called it "scooter" because of this. :lol: The guy was CONVINCED it was something in the rear.... Rod walked over and said, "I think I can help you with that if you want". The guy let him. Rod took some 1/8" ply and xacto-knifed off two strips of wood the length of the boat and glued them to the bottom outside edge of the boat and said try that. It fixed the problem.... water was sucking up around the bottom edge of the boat and up the sides and causing drag. The strips eliminated this from happening.

I'm just a newbie relating what I've been told by one the "greats" in RC boating. If you dont want to take my word for it (totally understandable) I'll be happy to give you Rod's phone# and you can ask him about the "scooter story" yourself.

todd hollander