Front sealed bearings

[boaterbill]

I've got three novarossis. Run one, nodified, in the hawk 21, the other two in 21 microburst & 21 speedmaster. I use pneumatic gun oil, with few drops of midas touch, and couple of oz to the quart of Marvel pneumatic added to the quart of pneumatic oil (any brand will do). I haven't thown any bearings (knock on wood).

Two of the novarossis style before the new one , one is new one last year. Hope it helps. I take all the seals out of them.

 

[Preston_Hall]

back to the original equation F=8lb x 1.22 = 9.76lb (without friction)

Ben,

You are correct. I missed stated my asumption of 30 to 70. I actually figured 30 to 100. That would put us in agreement.

For replacing..............If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I run many gallons through my NR's. You get an bad one at times the same as any other motor. Bearing failure is usually due to poor lubrication or contaminates.

I remember the discussion of how poor the NR bearings were. I still stand by the saying "the proof is in the pudding". The pudding being that NR .21 is the fastest. Look at the car engines as well. Most use a patented NR bearing.

 

[Preston_Hall]

back to the original equation F=8lb x 1.22 = 9.76lb (without friction)

Ben,

You are correct. I missed stated my asumption of 30 to 70. I actually figured 30 to 100. That would put us in agreement.

For replacing..............If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I run many gallons through my NR's. You get an bad one at times the same as any other motor. Bearing failure is usually due to poor lubrication or contaminates.

I remember the discussion of how poor the NR bearings were. I still stand by the saying "the proof is in the pudding". The pudding being that NR .21 is the fastest. Look at the car engines as well. Most use a patented NR bearing.

 

[Don Ferrette]

When you stop & think about it, one gallon thru a .21 is a fair amount of runs. Let's say you consume approx. 6oz. per heat, at 128oz. per gallon that almost 22 heats. That's about 5 races & say a few open water runs. That's damn near a season's worth of racing for alot of people. Just some food for thought........

 

[GTR]

Hi Don

I agree that boats run the engines WFO but I would disagree with that being a reason for strain on the engines. Car engines normally run between 6k & 40k rpm - accelerating the motors dramatically from one point to the other is mechanically hard on them and they don't fail very often. Boat engines while loaded more are actually more evenly loaded (except for at launch or when hopping wakes) and this is easier on the engines. I would suggest very few boat motors ever pull 40k rpm unless in an overrev situation with a runaway. Agreed the car guy's use lower nitro but I have my doubts about the additional benefit achieved by running such high levels. I say this because the engines are designed by the manufacturers to run on 25% which is the universal international level for 1/8th cars. I do understand that some guys in the US use 40% but I'd like to see some empirical testing on horsepower achieved above those levels. I think the problem is 60-65% has become the norm just because everyone is trying to keep up with what others use. I have heard lots of talk about you've got to use this ??level of nitro or the motor won't go - where's the actual proof?

Sorry drifted from the point - the NR bearings are designed clearly for use in the car environment which is the big end of the market and may not be as suitable for the shaft end loads that boats apply. Not convinced that it's anything to do with the quality but that the designers intended use was different from our use. This comes close to slamming a particular product. I am not doubting your, and others experiences but this 'problem' may be a perception and the result of other factors that might be able to be engineered out in the boats. I think this almost comes close to the standing and staring up at a building - if enough people do it there must be something going on.

Off my soap box

GT

 

[Mitch Graber]

I agree with taking the seal off of the small bearing,leave it on

and the bearing does not last as long.As far as the Corrosion X,

I have been using it for about 5 years now.Would not use anything else,

I run NovaRossi longstrokes and run for a complete (Florida)season,

12 mo.of racing and testing,and at the beginning of a new season I will

change the bearings just to start the new season,many times the big bearing

is in great shape and it is the small bearing that is rough,but I change them

both out while I am in there.Same goes for the CMB 45,90,and 1.0's.

Change them out once a year wether they need it or not.I had my son's

1.0 boat sit for over 8 mo.last year after he lost interest to cars and girls,

took it out last week to run it,to sell it to a friend and it ran as good as it

ever did with Corrosion X afterrun sitting in it that long?????Things

that make you go HUMMMMMMM?????

 

[TimD]

Just to side track the thread a little - we have these super smooth bearings in our motors but we have a fixed link (the flex shaft) running thru a bushed strut. :blink:

 

[Joe Reese]

Ya, the fixed strut. That nylon tube lubacating the flexshaft, and when we add oil or wax grease into the lube hole it creats a drag! The only reason I lube the lower unit is simple, its in the water! :blink:

 

[F.Orlic]

Don, I don't understand how film of CorosinX on the bearing can be a bad thing, and it certainly won't make clearance tighter. Oil film will be gone after engine is fired up in no time. As far as NR bearings goes I put 5-6 gallons through with no problem, very few failures. If you wan't to go fast you will break stuff because speed cost money.

Frank

 

[Don Ferrette]

Hey Frank-

How's the weather up there? As for the Corrosion X all I know is guys I've seen who were not getting good life out of bearings & where using C/X, when they stopped & switched to a more conventional after run oil the bearing life increased significantly. Maybe NovaRossi improved the bearings recently but I don't think so. Granted I hear of guys like yourself who get a good run out of a set but I hear alot more having them go out relatively quickly. Not to mention the brand new N/R motors I've seen come thru with bad bearings out of the box. <_<

 

[F.Orlic]

Nothing is more detrimental to life of a bearing than fuel you use, not the amount of oil but the quality.

Frank

 

[Joe_Knesek]

The stock Nova Rossi bearing is a lot better than the aftermarket bearing. The aftermarket bearing has smaller balls which make them more likely to skid.

Corrosion X is desolved by nitro. as long as you don't turn the motor over dry, I don't see how the Corrosion X will harm the motor. I just finished reading an article in Wood magazine that tested corrosion protection and the clear winner was T-9 by Boeshield.

 

[Don Ferrette]

I'm beginning to wonder if the bearing problems these guys were having back then with their 3.5 o/b motors & Corrosion X was some type of chemical reaction possibly with a particular additive in the fuel & the Corrosion X maybe??? The common fuel between them was stuff called PowerMaster. I know that sounds odd & the "protective layer" build up was the only thing I could figure was causing the exaggerated wear pattern in the races. With same fuel & no more Corrosion X, bearings began lasting longer in all 4 of their motors. :blink: :blink: :blink:

 

[Joe]

Man I never figured the way I clean my engines would have got this many postings. It works for me any way.

Joe Grace

 

[Joe Reese]

What ever happened to the use of caster in the fuel?

Small and Large balls. :lol:

The diamiter of the ball has to carry the load, A higher load rating needs larger balls.

I'll tell you what I have big balls cutting into th Rossi with a dremmel. :lol:

 

[RaceCraftBearings]

What causes the seals to go out so fast, and what could I do to prevent them from wareing to he point of air leaks? / Whow often should the front bearing be replaced.

Joe Reese, what motor are you having trouble with the seals and what brand of bearing?

Ron

 

[boaterbill]

Not a good idea to run full synthetic, I run 10% castor, 10% syn. I did run into flat spots in some of the balls in the mack 67 (silver head) from last season, but the motor was running strong as h---, I usually change bearings at the end of the season. Don't know what caused that?

 

[bsmtboy2]

Oscar Leech was showing me at a race last year how the bearings have a "A" rating of how round the balls are. This rating determined how well the bearings would wear and work under load. I think he said look for a rating of A3 or better. The better rating the rounder the balls the smoother the bearing the better the wear and he said they will take more hours of work before breakdown occurs. On the issue of the large bearing, i remove both seals and the inside seal on the small bearing to get the maximun possible amount of lubrication to both bearings. Ron help to clear this up if my memory is bad!!!

 

[RaceCraftBearings]

Oscar Leech was showing me at a race last year how the bearings have a "A" rating of how round the balls are. This rating determined how well the bearings would wear and work under load. I think he said look for a rating of A3 or better. The better rating the rounder the balls the smoother the bearing the better the wear and he said they will take more hours of work before breakdown occurs. On the issue of the large bearing, i remove both seals and the inside seal on the small bearing to get the maximun possible amount of lubrication to both bearings. Ron help to clear this up if my memory is bad!!!

I think you are referring to "C3" which is the fit or clearance between the ball and the race, C3 is the perfect fit for our application. The ABEC rating is what determines how precise the balls are. ABEC 1 is just fine for use on our application, you can go to a higher ABEC rating such as 3 or 5 but you really wont gain anything significant over an ABEC 1 other than a bit lighter in the pocket "Cha Ching"

Here is a good example of the ABEC Hype: A recreational skater buys skates with ABEC 1 installed for wheel bearings is told by the local skate retailer that he can buy ABEC 3's and go faster, ABEC 5's and go faster still, ABEC 7's and faster still and on and on. The truth is he will not go any faster with ABEC 9's than he did with ABEC 1's. They will be smooter feeling on his feet for a short time but due to the impact load put onto the bearings they will soon loose that feel, in the meantime he is much lighter in the pocket which is the only reason he will be skating faster.

In the case of a Competition skater they will go for the higher ABEC ratings and they also know how to be smoother with there stride to get the most from their effort as well as keep as of the much impact away from the bearings as possible

Hope this clears the muck a bit.

Ron

 

[Preston_Hall]

in the meantime he is much lighter in the pocket which is the only reason he will be skating faster.

TOO FUNNY!