Flex Cable Tube Question

[Blackout]

I'm new to not using a teflon liner for the flex cable. In the past, I would epoxy a brass stuffing tube to the hull. The teflon liner would slide into the tube and could be easily replaced when worn out.

How do you make an s-bend brass tube replaceable on an outrigger? Or will it not need replacing from wear?

I was able to do this with my .45 mono because the tube was almost straight.

Thanks.

 

[Tom Foley]

I'm going on 7 years of Twin 80 Hydro abuse on the shaft tubes on my 80 Twin , no problems yet although i thought about replacing them for the heck of it .Same stuffing box setup .

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Craig;

When running your shaft, it is done in 2 different diameter pieces of brass.

Lets start with nomenclature,

First is the shaft log, on a 3/16" shaft setup I believe the shaft log brass tube is 1/4", it will run from about 1/4" aft of your shaft collet on the engine, all the way back to, and through the strut. Yhis is the piece you will put your bend into, to line up you shaft angle with your "S" bend.

Now is the stuffing box, it is one size larger than the shaft log, I believe the size if 11/32" not sure at all on this one. I alwayshave to test for the fit, cause I can never remember the sizes.

Now it is placed just aft of were the shaft log stopped at the engine end. IE: you will have about 1/4" of the shaft log, 1/4" brass tube sticking out the front of the stuffing box.

The stuffing box is epoxied, glued, glassed in place. you will trim the excess off of were it comes through the bottom of the hull, now you 1/4" piece will slide up through the stuffing box. you can solder the 2 pieces together at the engine end of the shaft set up, to keep everything in place.

Now the reason for doing it this way, is if you hit something, in the water, or onother boat, and bend, or crush the shaft log, you can un-solder the front end, slide the shaft log out, and replace it. and your engine/shaft alignment should be good to go.

Is this clear as mud to you??

 

[HOTWATER]

Craig;

When running your shaft, it is done in 2 different diameter pieces of brass.

Lets start with nomenclature,

First is the shaft log, on a 3/16" shaft setup I believe the shaft log brass tube is 1/4", it will run from about 1/4" aft of your shaft collet on the engine, all the way back to, and through the strut. Yhis is the piece you will put your bend into, to line up you shaft angle with your "S" bend.

Now is the stuffing box, it is one size larger than the shaft log, I believe the size if 11/32" not sure at all on this one. I alwayshave to test for the fit, cause I can never remember the sizes.

Now it is placed just aft of were the shaft log stopped at the engine end. IE: you will have about 1/4" of the shaft log, 1/4" brass tube sticking out the front of the stuffing box.

The stuffing box is epoxied, glued, glassed in place. you will trim the excess off of were it comes through the bottom of the hull, now you 1/4" piece will slide up through the stuffing box. you can solder the 2 pieces together at the engine end of the shaft set up, to keep everything in place.

Now the reason for doing it this way, is if you hit something, in the water, or onother boat, and bend, or crush the shaft log, you can un-solder the front end, slide the shaft log out, and replace it. and your engine/shaft alignment should be good to go.

Is this clear as mud to you??

Good info here Flascaleboater...well put!

-Kent

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Thanks Kent,

I thought I was rambling, & no one would be able to understand it

My sizes are probably incorrect, but the process is there

 

[Blackout]

Craig;

When running your shaft, it is done in 2 different diameter pieces of brass.

Lets start with nomenclature,

First is the shaft log, on a 3/16" shaft setup I believe the shaft log brass tube is 1/4", it will run from about 1/4" aft of your shaft collet on the engine, all the way back to, and through the strut. Yhis is the piece you will put your bend into, to line up you shaft angle with your "S" bend.

Now is the stuffing box, it is one size larger than the shaft log, I believe the size if 11/32" not sure at all on this one. I alwayshave to test for the fit, cause I can never remember the sizes.

Now it is placed just aft of were the shaft log stopped at the engine end. IE: you will have about 1/4" of the shaft log, 1/4" brass tube sticking out the front of the stuffing box.

The stuffing box is epoxied, glued, glassed in place. you will trim the excess off of were it comes through the bottom of the hull, now you 1/4" piece will slide up through the stuffing box. you can solder the 2 pieces together at the engine end of the shaft set up, to keep everything in place.

Now the reason for doing it this way, is if you hit something, in the water, or onother boat, and bend, or crush the shaft log, you can un-solder the front end, slide the shaft log out, and replace it. and your engine/shaft alignment should be good to go.

Is this clear as mud to you??

Thanks, I think I understand, but...

With an s-bend setup the stuffing box would need to have a half s-bend in it, correct? This is because the engine is mounted level with the boat. With this half s-bend, wouldn't it be difficult sliding the shaft log into the stuffing box?

Thanks.

 

[steve wood]

Craig;

When running your shaft, it is done in 2 different diameter pieces of brass.

Lets start with nomenclature,

First is the shaft log, on a 3/16" shaft setup I believe the shaft log brass tube is 1/4", it will run from about 1/4" aft of your shaft collet on the engine, all the way back to, and through the strut. Yhis is the piece you will put your bend into, to line up you shaft angle with your "S" bend.

Now is the stuffing box, it is one size larger than the shaft log, I believe the size if 11/32" not sure at all on this one. I alwayshave to test for the fit, cause I can never remember the sizes.

Now it is placed just aft of were the shaft log stopped at the engine end. IE: you will have about 1/4" of the shaft log, 1/4" brass tube sticking out the front of the stuffing box.

The stuffing box is epoxied, glued, glassed in place. you will trim the excess off of were it comes through the bottom of the hull, now you 1/4" piece will slide up through the stuffing box. you can solder the 2 pieces together at the engine end of the shaft set up, to keep everything in place.

Now the reason for doing it this way, is if you hit something, in the water, or onother boat, and bend, or crush the shaft log, you can un-solder the front end, slide the shaft log out, and replace it. and your engine/shaft alignment should be good to go.

Is this clear as mud to you??

Thanks, I think I understand, but...

With an s-bend setup the stuffing box would need to have a half s-bend in it, correct? This is because the engine is mounted level with the boat. With this half s-bend, wouldn't it be difficult sliding the shaft log into the stuffing box?

Thanks.

NO

 

[Blackout]

Craig;

When running your shaft, it is done in 2 different diameter pieces of brass.

Lets start with nomenclature,

First is the shaft log, on a 3/16" shaft setup I believe the shaft log brass tube is 1/4", it will run from about 1/4" aft of your shaft collet on the engine, all the way back to, and through the strut. Yhis is the piece you will put your bend into, to line up you shaft angle with your "S" bend.

Now is the stuffing box, it is one size larger than the shaft log, I believe the size if 11/32" not sure at all on this one. I alwayshave to test for the fit, cause I can never remember the sizes.

Now it is placed just aft of were the shaft log stopped at the engine end. IE: you will have about 1/4" of the shaft log, 1/4" brass tube sticking out the front of the stuffing box.

The stuffing box is epoxied, glued, glassed in place. you will trim the excess off of were it comes through the bottom of the hull, now you 1/4" piece will slide up through the stuffing box. you can solder the 2 pieces together at the engine end of the shaft set up, to keep everything in place.

Now the reason for doing it this way, is if you hit something, in the water, or onother boat, and bend, or crush the shaft log, you can un-solder the front end, slide the shaft log out, and replace it. and your engine/shaft alignment should be good to go.

Is this clear as mud to you??

Thanks, I think I understand, but...

With an s-bend setup the stuffing box would need to have a half s-bend in it, correct? This is because the engine is mounted level with the boat. With this half s-bend, wouldn't it be difficult sliding the shaft log into the stuffing box?

Thanks.

NO

Sorry, I don't get it. If the stuffing box tube extends close to the engine collet, like described above, how is there not a bend in the stuffing box tube? (With a level mounted engine.)

 

[Tom Foley]

Man ...the stuffing box is only going to be about 2 inches long at best ...just get the materials and do it ..it's not like Nuclear Fusion or any thing . any S bend that will be formed will be slight ..get off the " puter and start cutting and grinding ..it's not that hard ..just DO IT !! Hope this helps ..takes lots of sawdust to be a model boater !! PS.... Motor is never perfectly level ..always a slight angle ..........

 

[Bill Gibson]

Blackout..if you think Toms a hardass on the computer......YOU OUTTA PIT FOR EM!!!! :lol: :lol: (he's really a good guy!)

 

[Bob Howard]

If the stuffing tube has a slight bend you can still push the tube through it

Bob

 

[Blackout]

Man ...the stuffing box is only going to be about 2 inches long at best ...just get the materials and do it ..it's not like Nuclear Fusion or any thing . any S bend that will be formed will be slight ..get off the " puter and start cutting and grinding ..it's not that hard ..just DO IT !! Hope this helps ..takes lots of sawdust to be a model boater !! PS.... Motor is never perfectly level ..always a slight angle ..........

"2 inches long", o.k., that makes sense. But, that's not what was described above. There is obviously more than one way to do it.

I'll make some slight bends for a stuffing box and see if I can feed a tube through...

 

[HOTWATER]

Man ...the stuffing box is only going to be about 2 inches long at best ...just get the materials and do it ..it's not like Nuclear Fusion or any thing . any S bend that will be formed will be slight ..get off the " puter and start cutting and grinding ..it's not that hard ..just DO IT !! Hope this helps ..takes lots of sawdust to be a model boater !! PS.... Motor is never perfectly level ..always a slight angle ..........

"2 inches long", o.k., that makes sense. But, that's not what was described above. There is obviously more than one way to do it.

I'll make some slight bends for a stuffing box and see if I can feed a tube through...

Actually, that IS the way it was first described...makes sense to me...

 

[Tom Foley]

Here is a few real good pics that show the basic discussed setup .

 

[dwilfong]

Tom

Where did you get the valve on the oiler.

David

 

[Tom Foley]

Tom

Where did you get the valve on the oiler.

David

Scott Schneider over on Jims dock posted these pics , i will find out .

 

[HOTWATER]

Tom

Where did you get the valve on the oiler.

David

Cool oiling system!

-Kent

 

[Blackout]

I decided to not run a stuffing box since this rigger will have a center ski that will protect the flex cable tube from damage and the fact that Tom has gone 7 years without his tubes wearing out.

But to be clear. The picture above is not an S-bend setup. On my rigger, if the S-bend stuffing box tube was to run close to the engine collet it would need to be a little over 6 inches long. I think this would be the case for any S-bend setup. On a S-bend setup, the engine is mounted level to the tub.

Thanks for all the info. I wish I had access to this info 25 years ago when I started playing with RC boats. As I look back, I had many failures because I did not have the right answers. One was a Quickie 40 rigger that my brother and I just couldn't get up on plane.

 

[Tom Foley]

I decided to not run a stuffing box since this rigger will have a center ski that will protect the flex cable tube from damage and the fact that Tom has gone 7 years without his tubes wearing out.

But to be clear. The picture above is not an S-bend setup. On my rigger, if the S-bend stuffing box tube was to run close to the engine collet it would need to be a little over 6 inches long. I think this would be the case for any S-bend setup. On a S-bend setup, the engine is mounted level to the tub.

Thanks for all the info. I wish I had access to this info 25 years ago when I started playing with RC boats. As I look back, I had many failures because I did not have the right answers. One was a Quickie 40 rigger that my brother and I just couldn't get up on plane.

One thing to think about and I'll shut up ..... should you get in even a minor wreck where someone runs up the rear of the rigger damaging the strut / tube ..now you have to remove the glued on shoe on the hull to repair it ...Later .

 

[Boris Mazor]

Craig;

When running your shaft, it is done in 2 different diameter pieces of brass.

Lets start with nomenclature,

First is the shaft log, on a 3/16" shaft setup I believe the shaft log brass tube is 1/4", it will run from about 1/4" aft of your shaft collet on the engine, all the way back to, and through the strut. Yhis is the piece you will put your bend into, to line up you shaft angle with your "S" bend.

Now is the stuffing box, it is one size larger than the shaft log, I believe the size if 11/32" not sure at all on this one. I alwayshave to test for the fit, cause I can never remember the sizes.

Now it is placed just aft of were the shaft log stopped at the engine end. IE: you will have about 1/4" of the shaft log, 1/4" brass tube sticking out the front of the stuffing box.

The stuffing box is epoxied, glued, glassed in place. you will trim the excess off of were it comes through the bottom of the hull, now you 1/4" piece will slide up through the stuffing box. you can solder the 2 pieces together at the engine end of the shaft set up, to keep everything in place.

Now the reason for doing it this way, is if you hit something, in the water, or onother boat, and bend, or crush the shaft log, you can un-solder the front end, slide the shaft log out, and replace it. and your engine/shaft alignment should be good to go.

Is this clear as mud to you??

What is benefits of S-bend? I always set engine by the proper angle and epoxied stuffing box alginate with the shaft. This setup is reparable and watertight. To keep shaft log in place aluminum collar, as shown on the picture. Boris