first run, nowhere near successful

[camaroboy383]

You may even need to try a smaller prop than a 215 I lost all my pictures due to a computer crash so I used my electric rigger from photobucket and paint shopped you drain hole placement front one should be at the rear of the front compartment and second one should be at the rear of engine compartment easy way to say it is follow picture and add a hole in every compartment except the radio compartment keep working at it youll get it figured out

thanks for the pointers yote,, should i use bailers in those drain holes???????

 

[Brad Christy]

Alden,

I put holes in the bottom of the tub. There is a raised "bridge plate" under the engine, so there is one hole just ahead of that plate, one at the rear of the engine bay and one in the rear of the baitbox, all on the left hand side. I make up bailers out of 1/2"x1/8" spruce, about 1" long. I first "hollow" them out so they will cover the hole without closing them, then I shape the outside of them into a bullet shape so they will slip through oncoming water during launch and slow milling. When I get them the way I want them, I glue them to the bottom of the tub over the drain holes. This has served me well so far.

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Or you can use a piece of folded over radio box tape to form a flap that closes the hole when water pressure is against it (when stopped in the water).

 

[toyotatruckin]

I never put bailers in a rigger before just make sure its gonna float if it dies---not really rocket science as long as water gets out thats the goal tims idea would be choice if i did want a "one way" set-up

 

[Brad Christy]

Alden,

I used to do what Tim mentioned, but it just turned in to a PITA to make up the flaps every time I went ot the pond, and I just couldn't bring myself to leave it on when I ashed the boat down for the day. I really don't care if the tub fills with water after the boat dies. I just didn't wat it to start picking up water as it drug it's transom around if I had to do a slow mill or had problems on the launch. My bailers are permanant, do not hinder the boat's performance and look pretty cool, to boot.

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros

 

[TCHedOff]

Brad Could you post a pic? I'm confused. :blink: My .21 is set up w/tape like Tim suggested but I'm finishing up a couple .12's.... and havent addressed this yet on them. Thanks

 

[camaroboy383]

Brad Could you post a pic? I'm confused. :blink: My .21 is set up w/tape like Tim suggested but I'm finishing up a couple .12's.... and havent addressed this yet on them. Thanks

Todd, think of it as a backwards air scoop. So when water pass it it will create vaccum and water will drain.its just a hole with the backward scoop over it, no check ball or anything.

Ya know i was thinkin about the whole bailer thing, finally realized it will do absolutely no good being there are oblong open holes around the front boom tubes.lol.duh. Cant believe i over looked that.

Tim, very good idea,simple yet effective.thanks for the tips guys.

Alden

 

[Brad Christy]

Alden,

Ya know i was thinkin about the whole bailer thing, finally realized it will do absolutely no good being there are oblong open holes around the front boom tubes.lol.duh. Cant believe i over looked that.

I'm not sure if this is where you were going with this, but you really need drain holes. Water is GOING to get in, I don't care what you do to prevent it. There has to be passage for air under the cowl, so water will find it's way in. The key is to provide a way for the water to get out that doesn't invite it in. Bailers with check valve balls would for sure be a waste of time and effort, but some kind of "anti-syphon" is a definite must have.

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros

 

[TCHedOff]

Brad Could you post a pic? I'm confused. :blink: My .21 is set up w/tape like Tim suggested but I'm finishing up a couple .12's.... and havent addressed this yet on them. Thanks

Todd, think of it as a backwards air scoop. So when water pass it it will create vaccum and water will drain.its just a hole with the backward scoop over it, no check ball or anything.

Ya know i was thinkin about the whole bailer thing, finally realized it will do absolutely no good being there are oblong open holes around the front boom tubes.lol.duh. Cant believe i over looked that.

Tim, very good idea,simple yet effective.thanks for the tips guys.

Alden

Thanks Alden. I get it now.... guess I can tell the bus driver I can ride on the big school bus again!

 

[camaroboy383]

Lol.lol thats funny todd.

Brad we are on the same page for sure. Water getting in is unavoidable. For sure putting a drain in the tub.

Alden

 

[Don Templeton]

Alden,

Yes, you need to put drain holes in your hull but just remember that water in the boat has nothing to do with your origional problem of getting free of the water fast and up on plane. It would be the very last thing I would worry about.

Don

 

[LarryConrad]

Brad Could you post a pic? I'm confused. :blink: My .21 is set up w/tape like Tim suggested but I'm finishing up a couple .12's.... and havent addressed this yet on them. Thanks

Todd, think of it as a backwards air scoop. So when water pass it it will create vaccum and water will drain.its just a hole with the backward scoop over it, no check ball or anything.

Ya know i was thinkin about the whole bailer thing, finally realized it will do absolutely no good being there are oblong open holes around the front boom tubes.lol.duh. Cant believe i over looked that.

Tim, very good idea,simple yet effective.thanks for the tips guys.

Alden

Thanks Alden. I get it now.... guess I can tell the bus driver I can ride on the big school bus again!

Not in your lifetime! :lol:

 

[camaroboy383]

well i tried a bunch of stuff...with the same results,, then it just out of nowhere would run 4-5 laps up on pipe ,,then die again.. last run,, ran on the pipe nicely for about two laps and then BOOM.... rear bearing came apart and smoked the engine... im assuming this was my issue from the get go.. siezing bearing will get ya every time.. lol... so now she gets a aqua .18.. should work now..

thanks for everyone's help...

alden

 

[camaroboy383]

this post is for paul,,,, sorry for the delay in pics.....dont laugh,,, the balsa is holding up well with the carbon lining it.... aoa's look wrong?????????? seems to look pretty good in the water when it actually ran.. sorry bout the crude cowl but she serves her purpose... if i didnt have that sulivan tank in there it wouldnt have to hump up so much in the front.. but like i said,,,serves its purpose...

alden

 

[mike stover]

Alden,

We have had the very same problem with our riggers, and have found that the cold water slashing on the engine is pulling all the heat from the motor, and it quits. We shielded the motor from the splashing cold water that we have here in the northeast this time of year and it ran great. We were only getting a 1/2 to 3/4 lap before, and now it goes till it runs out of fuel.

Mike

 

[tnrcboatracer]

Hull looks fine.

One thing to consider, though; see if the tub floats with no front sponsons, full tank of fuel, engine compartment and bait box flooded. Think about it, one high speed dump, and the sponsons can break away; so I don't rely on them for flotation of the tub. If flotation is marginal, CA glue 1/8"~1/4" thick light balsa or low density sheet closed cell foam (Ethafoam is good) to the engine and fuel tank compartment walls, and 1/4" ~1'2" thick or more to the bait box area. Seal balsa with a light coat of epoxy. Also fill the radiobox dead space with low density closed cell foam. Anything to displace water. The hull may weight 1oz more, but it won't be lost in a crash. The tub doesn't have to float very high, just not sink.

I have had the dubious pleasure of searching the bottom of the Huntsville pond looking for a rigger tub before (circa 1998-2000, IMPBA Internats, John Brown's 45 rigger after a disintegrating crash at the entrance to bouy 1). Not sure that the extra flotation would have helped in his case as the tub was pretty much broken up in 3 places (held together by the flex cable), but every little bit helps.

 

[camaroboy383]

Alden,We have had the very same problem with our riggers, and have found that the cold water slashing on the engine is pulling all the heat from the motor, and it quits. We shielded the motor from the splashing cold water that we have here in the northeast this time of year and it ran great. We were only getting a 1/2 to 3/4 lap before, and now it goes till it runs out of fuel.

Mike

This is great info, ya know, all the times ive run this year it was about 50 degrees tops water maybe 40-45.. This makes all the sense in the world.

Took it out once since the heart transplant in it. Ran much better but same dang thing. I was actually pointing fingers at the fuel being so agitated, but yet i dont know how agitated it is in the water..

Hmm never seen if the tub floats with no sponsons.ill have to look into that.thanks for the tip.

Alden