Faulk Marine hull questions

[Scott Miller]

Hello Fellow RC boat enthusiest,

I recently purchased this hull here and wonder if some of you that have these hulls can help with questions I have.

• The triangular piece (with 3 levels) in the foreground of the picture, what is this and how to utilize? I think it is used for the radio box mounted in the cockpit area. If so how? Does anyone have any pictures of this being used?
  
• How to determine the nitro motor placement? How many inches from the transom to the glow plug? Any reccommendations?
  
• Turn fin bracket on right sponson transom area looks like it may require some extra attention due to multiple angle of the transom, how did you mount yours?
  

Thanks in advance to everyone for their reccomendations and advice.

 

[Don Ferrette]

Hello Fellow RC boat enthusiest,

I recently purchased this hull here and wonder if some of you that have these hulls can help with questions I have.

• The triangular piece (with 3 levels) in the foreground of the picture, what is this and how to utilize? I think it is used for the radio box mounted in the cockpit area. If so how? Does anyone have any pictures of this being used?
  
• How to determine the nitro motor placement? How many inches from the transom to the glow plug? Any reccommendations?
  
• Turn fin bracket on right sponson transom area looks like it may require some extra attention due to multiple angle of the transom, how did you mount yours?
  

Thanks in advance to everyone for their reccomendations and advice.

• The 3 level triangular piece is your cockpit liner with the lowest point being where the driver figure goes. If you do a front mounted radio box you'll most likely wind up using more of a flat plate for clearance underneath.
  
• Try to get the motor as far forward as you can, winged scales typically need all the forward weight bias they can get to help keep the weight off the tail
  
• You'll probably wind up fabricating a mounting bracket to work with the sponson heel. Whatever you make just keep in mind that the fin mounting surface of the bracket are absolutely dead nut parallel to the sponson ride pad and if you use a curved turn fin that the same mounting surface is 90 degrees vertically to your set up table.
  

 

[chinslip]

I just want to know where you bought that hull?

Norm

 

[Scott Miller]

Thanks for the information Don.

Norm, I bought the hull right here on IW from the fore sale section of the forums.

 

[jwo]

Some attention to the hull is needed to make it perform. It is a great plat form to start with. You will need to either enclose the cockpit area or build a box to fit in the area. I have done it both ways and would encourage you to build it in. It needs a carbon fiber spar installed in the front wing that is attached to the sponson outsides. Then , by installing engine compartment sides that are attached to the existing engine mount rails and the bottom and the deck. Use 1/16 ply for this. These steps will stiffen up the hull. You will need to add whieght in the left front sponson. Amount will be determined after everything else is installed. Around 6-8 oz. . The back of the right sponson should be built out to make it square to the airtrap and bottm. Use 1/4 ply laminated together and cut at the angle of sponson back to make it flat. There is Aluminum on the inside to drill and tap for skid fin bracket. This should be mounted as far to the right as possible. The engine should be mounted in the center of the hull (not the engine compartment) as far forward as you can get it. Head almost rubbing the hoop that is between the 2 cowls. Or remove it and get it up under where it is. Strut also goes in the hull center. Straight drive shaft from engine to strut. The rudder should be mounted 2 3/16 from the left airtrap. If you follow this it will be around 12 to 14lbs race ready and very fast with a good setup. Sturt depth will be 1 1/8 at the rear 2.5* angle prather 255 from Andy Brown. It will be tuff to beat.

 

[chinslip]

Is Falk a brand name for this hull? Are they available commercially?

N

 

[jwo]

Is Falk a brand name for this hull? Are they available commercially?

N

Yes, Faulk is the manufacter. No, they are no longer availble.

 

[Scott Miller]

Some attention to the hull is needed to make it perform. It is a great plat form to start with. You will need to either enclose the cockpit area or build a box to fit in the area. I have done it both ways and would encourage you to build it in. It needs a carbon fiber spar installed in the front wing that is attached to the sponson outsides. Then , by installing engine compartment sides that are attached to the existing engine mount rails and the bottom and the deck. Use 1/16 ply for this. These steps will stiffen up the hull. You will need to add whieght in the left front sponson. Amount will be determined after everything else is installed. Around 6-8 oz. . The back of the right sponson should be built out to make it square to the airtrap and bottm. Use 1/4 ply laminated together and cut at the angle of sponson back to make it flat. There is Aluminum on the inside to drill and tap for skid fin bracket. This should be mounted as far to the right as possible. The engine should be mounted in the center of the hull (not the engine compartment) as far forward as you can get it. Head almost rubbing the hoop that is between the 2 cowls. Or remove it and get it up under where it is. Strut also goes in the hull center. Straight drive shaft from engine to strut. The rudder should be mounted 2 3/16 from the left airtrap. If you follow this it will be around 12 to 14lbs race ready and very fast with a good setup. Sturt depth will be 1 1/8 at the rear 2.5* angle prather 255 from Andy Brown. It will be tuff to beat.

John,

Thanks very much for your input. A few questions:

• regarding the carbon rod (through cockit and canard aera) installation, that would mean removing the canards and possibly drilling holes through the one of the sponsons to necessitate the installation. I understand the goal but it seems like a lot of work and maybe its already too late at this stage of the hull build? Is there an eaiser way? Or maybe I am just afraid to cut into this beautifull hull. I am new to working with Kevlar so maybe that is why I am hesitent to do this.
  
• If adding weight to the left sponson will be necessary, why not leave the motor offset to the left (in the middle of the rails)?
  

Thanks again

Scott

 

[jwo]

Installing a Carbon tube in the sponson is a lot of work. The Kevlar makes it tough to cut into. It is difficult to work with. But worth it in the end. I would cut (with a exacto knife) access hatches in the sponsons in line with the front wing. this will allow you to install a tube by sliding it throught the wing and attaching it to the sponsons.

I prefer to leave the engine in the center of the hull. You will still need to add wieght to the left regaurdless. This also avoids having an S-bend in the stuffing box. Which will rob power from the engine. A slight gentle curve in the stuffing box is all that is needed to cure flex whip.

 

[Don Ferrette]

No disrespect John but properly done soft S bends do not rob power, that myth got disproved a long time ago. Just ask Ed Hughey and Rod Geraghty.