_laxmasta2039
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- Joined
- Oct 15, 2002
- Messages
- 817
Re:"Easy" nitro proof painting!
turtle wax???
joe
turtle wax???
joe
"Easy" nitro proof painting!
- Thread starter Don Templeton
- Start date
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Don Templeton
Well-Known Member
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- May 13, 2002
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Re:"Easy" nitro proof painting!
"That was a joke!"
;D
"That was a joke!"
;D
_laxmasta2039
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2002
- Messages
- 817
Re:"Easy" nitro proof painting!
oh......
now i feel like a chump....... :-X :-X......at least i didnt try it!!
joe
oh......
now i feel like a chump....... :-X :-X......at least i didnt try it!!
joe
Re:"Easy" nitro proof painting!
Mike;
The easiest way to apply UC is to spray it with on 30ish PSI.
What I usually do is mix some UC with plain old (varsol based) rust paint and spray on a few coats of color. Use 10-1 (UC-Paint) to color. The UC is usually around 4-1 (UC-cyano hardner) Mix this 1st..and then mix in your color(s). You can add a little paint reducer (acetone works) to thin things out a bit.
Spray on many thin coats allowing 5 mins flash time between each. Usually 3 or 4 is plenty.
You can stop here. Let the UC cure. (usually 8 hrs or so w/ quickcure) Sand with 600 Sandpaper, and then use Turtlewax scratch and swirl remover. You will have one bullet proof mirror finish.
or...
Let your model sit for 30 mins. Spray on 2 or 3 thick coats of UC clear. (no paint color..no thinner). The more...the better. Don't wait for more than an hr to reapply.
Let UC cure. Sand with 600 and use scratch & swirl remover.
The only difference is the way your finish will look. It won't be brighter or stronger...but the colour will look 'deeper' and 'wetter'.
Some people like to clearcote over their stickers. You can only really do this well if you apply an actual 'base-coat' type paint and let it cure completely before clearcoating. This paint is porous like primer so you can paint over and your finish will bond properly. You can't paint over a cured UC finish without 'scuffing' it well...and even then...it's not recommended.
Clean your gun after EACH days' use with acetone or reducer or you will get the nastiest surprise next time you go to use it. (Colored goo! clogging it solid) doh
As for brands. I am not sure about any being better than one-another. The brand I use is a no-name, relabeled local body shop supply store type. (I think DuPont) I also recommend the quick-cure hardener.
Cost (in Canada) is around $140 for a gallon of UC and can of cyano hardener. (I guess $70-$100 US) and you can paint a whole lotta models with a gallon! (or sell some to your club members)
This method is guaranteed 100% satisfaction in the finish.
Hope this helps....
Mike;
The easiest way to apply UC is to spray it with on 30ish PSI.
What I usually do is mix some UC with plain old (varsol based) rust paint and spray on a few coats of color. Use 10-1 (UC-Paint) to color. The UC is usually around 4-1 (UC-cyano hardner) Mix this 1st..and then mix in your color(s). You can add a little paint reducer (acetone works) to thin things out a bit.
Spray on many thin coats allowing 5 mins flash time between each. Usually 3 or 4 is plenty.
You can stop here. Let the UC cure. (usually 8 hrs or so w/ quickcure) Sand with 600 Sandpaper, and then use Turtlewax scratch and swirl remover. You will have one bullet proof mirror finish.
or...
Let your model sit for 30 mins. Spray on 2 or 3 thick coats of UC clear. (no paint color..no thinner). The more...the better. Don't wait for more than an hr to reapply.
Let UC cure. Sand with 600 and use scratch & swirl remover.
The only difference is the way your finish will look. It won't be brighter or stronger...but the colour will look 'deeper' and 'wetter'.
Some people like to clearcote over their stickers. You can only really do this well if you apply an actual 'base-coat' type paint and let it cure completely before clearcoating. This paint is porous like primer so you can paint over and your finish will bond properly. You can't paint over a cured UC finish without 'scuffing' it well...and even then...it's not recommended.
Clean your gun after EACH days' use with acetone or reducer or you will get the nastiest surprise next time you go to use it. (Colored goo! clogging it solid) doh
As for brands. I am not sure about any being better than one-another. The brand I use is a no-name, relabeled local body shop supply store type. (I think DuPont) I also recommend the quick-cure hardener.
Cost (in Canada) is around $140 for a gallon of UC and can of cyano hardener. (I guess $70-$100 US) and you can paint a whole lotta models with a gallon! (or sell some to your club members)
This method is guaranteed 100% satisfaction in the finish.
Hope this helps....
