Dyno Results?

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Terry,

I think you mis understood, for racing or oval times you want to rev past peak a little. You want the engine near peak power and torque when pulling out of the turns.

For SAW you want your top speed and peak HP to happen at the same rpm unless the pond is short and

acceleration is part of the equation.

Lohring is talking about going past peak with the gas engine for the best SAW speed because they don't have a prop big enough, so they go past peak and get some extra speed. If they had the right prop the big speed would come when the engine was turning at about 18,000.
I see, thanks... :)
 
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I have only one thing to say about all this dyno and rpm hype........ The fastest boat turning the fastest rpm is not usually the one making the fastest lap. How fast you get thru the corners and how quick the model gets to top speed is more important than top speed itself.
I agree with John. Bring it to the track! He has more than proven to me that the biggest gain in speed these days is making a boat turn. It is kind of like a Seaducer, they really hook up. ;)
 
Where does one purchase the dynos in question?

I asked around a lot a few months ago, and no one I spoke with was able to really tell me where to get one.

I am planning to build one if I can't buy one.

Thanks

Jay
Jay,

With all of the new electric motors that are being used for boats a person could build a very nice dyno. All of these motors are three phase AC motors and they are changing the frequency from 0 Hz to who knowns what the top Hz is but I am guessing about 800 Hz from some of the rpms that they are turning. I am in the electric motor business and could do very well with the electric boats but why would I want to play with the same thing that I work on all of the time. So we will let the electric boaters worry about that.

Now how would we do this. First of all we need a ajustable motor mount and some way to hold the electric motor inline with the nitro motor to be tested. The housing on the electric motor must be able to rotate on its bearings. Why because we need to mount a torque arm to the housing of the electric motor to measure torque. The torque arm can be 12" long from the center line of the electric motor and we can use a digital postal scale for the torque measurment by allowing the torque arm to rest on the postal scales. Now we need a tach pickup mounted to the input shaft of the electric motor. A good hand held tach will work for this.

Now crank the motor up and rev it to rpm that you want to check by reading the rpm with the tach. There may be a little torque measured on the scales if there is just zero out the scales. At this time start giving the electric motor a little power you will notice that the scales will start showing weight and the load on the nitro motor will start to get greater. Bingo we have a dyno. What do we do with the numbers that we have on the displays? Well this is where a calculator comes into play. The formula for HP is: Torque(lb.-ft.) X RPM divided by 5250 = Horsepower. By making the torque arm 12" long we have set the torque measurment up for ft.-Lbs. We can make the torque arm any lenght that we want but the math will have to be done to make it work with the formula. Also the scales may have a differant measurment but it to will have to be converted to work with the formula. And with a little more math you can change the reading to inch-ounces or newton-meters all it take is a calculator. Not a lot of money to make and we have a very simple accurate dyno.

Mark Bullard
 
Jim , ( or others )

Got a question ,

Instead of using a (airplane)prop as a load for the engine , could i use an oilpump ( of a car engine ) with some kind of regulator on it to give more or less load on the engine ?

I don't want to make a dyno bench , only a testbench for the engines .

Thanks in advance ,

B
Bart,

Absorbtion type brakes must use water because oils won't be able to absorb very much power without boiling. Been there & tried to do that.

Jim:) :) :)

Thanks jim but i wasn't thinking on absorbtion type brakes as a load( those are those disks right ) but i had in mind to use the oilpump and restrict its flows .

I assumed that if i would restrict the flow of the oilpump , i would give more load to the engine ?

To explain a bit more , oilpump , pressure regulater( something like this :

picofsomekindofregulater , this in a oilcircuit with a oil

Does it make sense ?

I know several people are using airplaneprops but i'm not too fond of that idea , spinning an airplane prop around 19000 rpm , no ty , makes a hell of a noise and i don't like risking my life . Besides , if i'd be using an airplane prop , then i also need a clutch incase of ............. .

I'll try to make a drawning this weekend , maybe that'll explain a bit more ( me and my lousy English lol )

Bart
 
Hi Mark -

Thanks for your insights! This is exactly the way I had thought about building one when I said "I am planning to build one if I can't buy one"! You, however brought a couple of new ideas into the mix - using an electric boat motor and a scale. I had thought about using a (12 V) starter motor and a variable resistor.

Thanks Mark! I'll let you know how I end up doing this!

Jay

Where does one purchase the dynos in question?

I asked around a lot a few months ago, and no one I spoke with was able to really tell me where to get one.

I am planning to build one if I can't buy one.

Thanks

Jay

Jay,

With all of the new electric motors that are being used for boats a person could build a very nice dyno. All of these motors are three phase AC motors and they are changing the frequency from 0 Hz to who knowns what the top Hz is but I am guessing about 800 Hz from some of the rpms that they are turning. I am in the electric motor business and could do very well with the electric boats but why would I want to play with the same thing that I work on all of the time. So we will let the electric boaters worry about that.

Now how would we do this. First of all we need a ajustable motor mount and some way to hold the electric motor inline with the nitro motor to be tested. The housing on the electric motor must be able to rotate on its bearings. Why because we need to mount a torque arm to the housing of the electric motor to measure torque. The torque arm can be 12" long from the center line of the electric motor and we can use a digital postal scale for the torque measurment by allowing the torque arm to rest on the postal scales. Now we need a tach pickup mounted to the input shaft of the electric motor. A good hand held tach will work for this.

Now crank the motor up and rev it to rpm that you want to check by reading the rpm with the tach. There may be a little torque measured on the scales if there is just zero out the scales. At this time start giving the electric motor a little power you will notice that the scales will start showing weight and the load on the nitro motor will start to get greater. Bingo we have a dyno. What do we do with the numbers that we have on the displays? Well this is where a calculator comes into play. The formula for HP is: Torque(lb.-ft.) X RPM divided by 5250 = Horsepower. By making the torque arm 12" long we have set the torque measurment up for ft.-Lbs. We can make the torque arm any lenght that we want but the math will have to be done to make it work with the formula. Also the scales may have a differant measurment but it to will have to be converted to work with the formula. And with a little more math you can change the reading to inch-ounces or newton-meters all it take is a calculator. Not a lot of money to make and we have a very simple accurate dyno.

Mark Bullard
 
Your welcome Jay

And what you are talking about using a DC motor with a variable resistor will work just fine. And would be cheaper than using the brushless motors. And just for thought the DC motor would be easer to control than the brushless motor as for as loading the nitro motor. There is one problem that you will encounter and that is heat on the loading device. But this will be true with any true dyno that will load a motor.

I built a dyno to use in my shop about fifteen years ago to test electric motors. It will test a motor at 350KW for however long that I want to test it for and it will peak at 500KW in short burst. The loading device is what we call a edy current coupler. The way it works is there are two drums, one runs inside the other with shafts coming off the drums on each end of the device. One shaft is tied to a torque arm and a load cell. The other couples to the machine that we are going to test. In the middle of the drums is a DC coil that when a DC voltage is applied to the coil it tries to turn the shaft the the load cell is tied to. The type of magnetic field is call edy currents thus the term edy current coupler. Even thou there are not friction parts other than the bearings there is a lot of heat made in the coupler. The coupler that I use for this dyno has got a water jacket so we cool it with water. I use a encoder for the tach signal that has 3600 pulses per rev along with the load cell all goes into a logic controler. Then I process the math on the numbers and then transmit them to a computor with some pretty graphics on it.

But it is like this. If you were doing this all of the time you might want to build a dyno like this. But a DC motor with a variable resistor for load device. A set of digital postal scales, a hand held tach, a calculator, pen, and some paper. You have got you a very good dyno that will give you some very good numbers.

And I would trust these numbers over anyone else numbers.

Mark Bullard
 
Where does one purchase the dynos in question?

I asked around a lot a few months ago, and no one I spoke with was able to really tell me where to get one.

I am planning to build one if I can't buy one.

Thanks

Jay
Jay,

There are several dyno's that could be adapted to small, high rpm engine testing. The Magtrol model ED-715 (hysteresis type) with gear reduction could be used. Go to www.magtrol.com for specs. This unit needs additional soft ware. Go to http://www.magtrol.com/motortesting/mtest.htm for information.

The Dyno-Max is a small eddy current air cooled absorber with gear reduction & a S-beam load cell. Go to http://www.dynomite.com/kart-dyno/kart-eddy-current-dyno.htm for details.

I strongly suggest reading an article published in Kart Racer Magazine before bying or building any type of unit. Go to http://www.dynomite.com/dyno-dynamometer-article.htm for this valuable information.

Jim Allen :) :) :)
 
Your welcome Jay

And what you are talking about using a DC motor with a variable resistor will work just fine. And would be cheaper than using the brushless motors. And just for thought the DC motor would be easer to control than the brushless motor as for as loading the nitro motor. There is one problem that you will encounter and that is heat on the loading device. But this will be true with any true dyno that will load a motor.

I built a dyno to use in my shop about fifteen years ago to test electric motors. It will test a motor at 350KW for however long that I want to test it for and it will peak at 500KW in short burst. The loading device is what we call a edy current coupler. The way it works is there are two drums, one runs inside the other with shafts coming off the drums on each end of the device. One shaft is tied to a torque arm and a load cell. The other couples to the machine that we are going to test. In the middle of the drums is a DC coil that when a DC voltage is applied to the coil it tries to turn the shaft the the load cell is tied to. The type of magnetic field is call edy currents thus the term edy current coupler. Even thou there are not friction parts other than the bearings there is a lot of heat made in the coupler. The coupler that I use for this dyno has got a water jacket so we cool it with water. I use a encoder for the tach signal that has 3600 pulses per rev along with the load cell all goes into a logic controler. Then I process the math on the numbers and then transmit them to a computor with some pretty graphics on it.

But it is like this. If you were doing this all of the time you might want to build a dyno like this. But a DC motor with a variable resistor for load device. A set of digital postal scales, a hand held tach, a calculator, pen, and some paper. You have got you a very good dyno that will give you some very good numbers.

And I would trust these numbers over anyone else numbers.

Mark Bullard
In 1980 I built a dyno from a GM power steering pump ( the one with a resevoir ) with a valve between the pressure line and the return line. This was the variable load. The pump was driven by the engine through a 10:1 reduction using gear belts. The pump assembly was made to pivot on its center by mounting it between a front and rear bearing. A torque arm was connected from the pivoting pump to a Ford ( Holley ) carburator accelerator pump diaphram that was fastened to a resevoir filled with fluid ( WD-40 ) that was connected to a pressure gauge. This was the load cell to measure the torque. The gauge was calibrated using an inch- ounce torque wrench and a paper overlay using these figures was made and glued to the pressure gauge dial. The RPM was read using a Globe DC permanent magnet motor as a tach generator driven directly off of the shaft that was connected to the engine. The voltage went to a DC volt gauge that was calibrated to the voltage output of the DC motor ( I think it was 1.25 volts per 1000 RPM ) again made into a paper overlay and glued to the volt gauge dial face. As the load was applied by gradually closing the valve the pump pivoted in its bearings, through the torque arm to the load cell on to the pressure gauge. This dyno had 2 control levers. One for the load and one for the throttle. This was a crude but simple device that worked without a glitch. I did not use it for horsepower #'s rather to confirm or reject changes that I made to the engines. I only used this dyno on 21 and 45 size engines. I did not try it on the high powered larger engines. This worked for me and I learned a lot. I was able to seperate a lot of the sh.. from the chaff so to speak. Charles Perdue
 
Your welcome Jay

And what you are talking about using a DC motor with a variable resistor will work just fine. And would be cheaper than using the brushless motors. And just for thought the DC motor would be easer to control than the brushless motor as for as loading the nitro motor. There is one problem that you will encounter and that is heat on the loading device. But this will be true with any true dyno that will load a motor.

I built a dyno to use in my shop about fifteen years ago to test electric motors. It will test a motor at 350KW for however long that I want to test it for and it will peak at 500KW in short burst. The loading device is what we call a edy current coupler. The way it works is there are two drums, one runs inside the other with shafts coming off the drums on each end of the device. One shaft is tied to a torque arm and a load cell. The other couples to the machine that we are going to test. In the middle of the drums is a DC coil that when a DC voltage is applied to the coil it tries to turn the shaft the the load cell is tied to. The type of magnetic field is call edy currents thus the term edy current coupler. Even thou there are not friction parts other than the bearings there is a lot of heat made in the coupler. The coupler that I use for this dyno has got a water jacket so we cool it with water. I use a encoder for the tach signal that has 3600 pulses per rev along with the load cell all goes into a logic controler. Then I process the math on the numbers and then transmit them to a computor with some pretty graphics on it.

But it is like this. If you were doing this all of the time you might want to build a dyno like this. But a DC motor with a variable resistor for load device. A set of digital postal scales, a hand held tach, a calculator, pen, and some paper. You have got you a very good dyno that will give you some very good numbers.

And I would trust these numbers over anyone else numbers.

Mark Bullard
In 1980 I built a dyno from a GM power steering pump ( the one with a resevoir ) with a valve between the pressure line and the return line. This was the variable load. The pump was driven by the engine through a 10:1 reduction using gear belts. The pump assembly was made to pivot on its center by mounting it between a front and rear bearing. A torque arm was connected from the pivoting pump to a Ford ( Holley ) carburator accelerator pump diaphram that was fastened to a resevoir filled with fluid ( WD-40 ) that was connected to a pressure gauge. This was the load cell to measure the torque. The gauge was calibrated using an inch- ounce torque wrench and a paper overlay using these figures was made and glued to the pressure gauge dial. The RPM was read using a Globe DC permanent magnet motor as a tach generator driven directly off of the shaft that was connected to the engine. The voltage went to a DC volt gauge that was calibrated to the voltage output of the DC motor ( I think it was 1.25 volts per 1000 RPM ) again made into a paper overlay and glued to the volt gauge dial face. As the load was applied by gradually closing the valve the pump pivoted in its bearings, through the torque arm to the load cell on to the pressure gauge. This dyno had 2 control levers. One for the load and one for the throttle. This was a crude but simple device that worked without a glitch. I did not use it for horsepower #'s rather to confirm or reject changes that I made to the engines. I only used this dyno on 21 and 45 size engines. I did not try it on the high powered larger engines. This worked for me and I learned a lot. I was able to seperate a lot of the sh.. from the chaff so to speak. Charles Perdue

Charles,

That was great thinking outside the box and if it told what you wanted to know that was the important thing. There is no secret to dyno's. They have been around since the day that we came up with the measurement of Horsepower. You got to have some way to load the motor that you want to test, measure torque and rpm.

Now let put something else into the box. Maybe Andy Brown can step into this if he would like. He may have thought of this or he may have not.

What if we turn a prop in a water tank with a device that would turn the prop the rpm's that we want to turn. We would want the device to turn the prop with variable rpm's. We would also want to measure the torque and rpm's that where required for the prop's load. Now we could take this torque curve and design a motor to run in that torque curve. Just thinking outside the box. Next!!!!!!!!!!

Mark Bullard
 
Your welcome Jay

And what you are talking about using a DC motor with a variable resistor will work just fine. And would be cheaper than using the brushless motors. And just for thought the DC motor would be easer to control than the brushless motor as for as loading the nitro motor. There is one problem that you will encounter and that is heat on the loading device. But this will be true with any true dyno that will load a motor.

I built a dyno to use in my shop about fifteen years ago to test electric motors. It will test a motor at 350KW for however long that I want to test it for and it will peak at 500KW in short burst. The loading device is what we call a edy current coupler. The way it works is there are two drums, one runs inside the other with shafts coming off the drums on each end of the device. One shaft is tied to a torque arm and a load cell. The other couples to the machine that we are going to test. In the middle of the drums is a DC coil that when a DC voltage is applied to the coil it tries to turn the shaft the the load cell is tied to. The type of magnetic field is call edy currents thus the term edy current coupler. Even thou there are not friction parts other than the bearings there is a lot of heat made in the coupler. The coupler that I use for this dyno has got a water jacket so we cool it with water. I use a encoder for the tach signal that has 3600 pulses per rev along with the load cell all goes into a logic controler. Then I process the math on the numbers and then transmit them to a computor with some pretty graphics on it.

But it is like this. If you were doing this all of the time you might want to build a dyno like this. But a DC motor with a variable resistor for load device. A set of digital postal scales, a hand held tach, a calculator, pen, and some paper. You have got you a very good dyno that will give you some very good numbers.

And I would trust these numbers over anyone else numbers.

Mark Bullard
In 1980 I built a dyno from a GM power steering pump ( the one with a resevoir ) with a valve between the pressure line and the return line. This was the variable load. The pump was driven by the engine through a 10:1 reduction using gear belts. The pump assembly was made to pivot on its center by mounting it between a front and rear bearing. A torque arm was connected from the pivoting pump to a Ford ( Holley ) carburator accelerator pump diaphram that was fastened to a resevoir filled with fluid ( WD-40 ) that was connected to a pressure gauge. This was the load cell to measure the torque. The gauge was calibrated using an inch- ounce torque wrench and a paper overlay using these figures was made and glued to the pressure gauge dial. The RPM was read using a Globe DC permanent magnet motor as a tach generator driven directly off of the shaft that was connected to the engine. The voltage went to a DC volt gauge that was calibrated to the voltage output of the DC motor ( I think it was 1.25 volts per 1000 RPM ) again made into a paper overlay and glued to the volt gauge dial face. As the load was applied by gradually closing the valve the pump pivoted in its bearings, through the torque arm to the load cell on to the pressure gauge. This dyno had 2 control levers. One for the load and one for the throttle. This was a crude but simple device that worked without a glitch. I did not use it for horsepower #'s rather to confirm or reject changes that I made to the engines. I only used this dyno on 21 and 45 size engines. I did not try it on the high powered larger engines. This worked for me and I learned a lot. I was able to seperate a lot of the sh.. from the chaff so to speak. Charles Perdue

Charles,

That was great thinking outside the box and if it told what you wanted to know that was the important thing. There is no secret to dyno's. They have been around since the day that we came up with the measurement of Horsepower. You got to have some way to load the motor that you want to test, measure torque and rpm.

Now let put something else into the box. Maybe Andy Brown can step into this if he would like. He may have thought of this or he may have not.

What if we turn a prop in a water tank with a device that would turn the prop the rpm's that we want to turn. We would want the device to turn the prop with variable rpm's. We would also want to measure the torque and rpm's that where required for the prop's load. Now we could take this torque curve and design a motor to run in that torque curve. Just thinking outside the box. Next!!!!!!!!!!

Mark Bullard
I had thought about it. It could be built using a DC electric motor with a resistor inline for speed control for the drive, a cheap RC plane tach sensing a vane attached to the motor shaft for the RPM and an amp meter between the power sorce and the DC motor to measure the current draw for the load. However I don't think that it would work just putting this in a tank of water. With the prop spinning at speed and the water standing still you would get 100% slippage ( total cavitation ) versus about 20 to 30% slippage as when the boat is running on the water. You would need some way to move the water at boat speed or mount this contraption on the end of an arm so it could spin around and around in a tank of water. Just my opinion. Charles Perdue
 
You could make a watertank designed as a circle instead of rectangular . The water wouldn't be standing still then . Question is though , is it realistic ?

B

ps :i think the circle has to be long( in distance) , i think if it would be too short , the speed of the water would be too fast .
 
Be sure to wear ear prtection if you are testing nitro engines and find a good muffler system to protect your hearing. I did a year or so of regular testing and even though I had ear plugs, I still fell prey to ringing in the ears due to over exposure to the noise at short range for long lengths of time. It ceeps up on you and them boom....it's too late.
 
Be sure to wear ear prtection if you are testing nitro engines and find a good muffler system to protect your hearing. I did a year or so of regular testing and even though I had ear plugs, I still fell prey to ringing in the ears due to over exposure to the noise at short range for long lengths of time. It ceeps up on you and them boom....it's too late.
You are right about that John. I use ear plugs & a North Hearing Protector with a 40 decibel noise reduction rating. An unmuffled .90 engine reads 120 decibels at full throttle within 5 ft. :) :) :)
 
Be sure to wear ear prtection if you are testing nitro engines and find a good muffler system to protect your hearing. I did a year or so of regular testing and even though I had ear plugs, I still fell prey to ringing in the ears due to over exposure to the noise at short range for long lengths of time. It ceeps up on you and them boom....it's too late.
You are right about that John. I use ear plugs & a North Hearing Protector with a 40 decibel noise reduction rating. An unmuffled .90 engine reads 120 decibels at full throttle within 5 ft. :) :) :)

When i was using my inertial dyno i had the exhaust ducted outside, via a large muffler. I found the carb intake noise very loud and painful !!

Ken
 
Kevin,

Go to the Car side of CMDRACING.COM and check out the REAL race results.

The stock MAC runs good and the MOD MAC will run with any Mod anything.

MAC engine sales slowed because CMB built junk crankshafts that wore out in one gallon of fuel

and yes, after the first gallon they got spanked because the crank pin diameter is reduced by .003".

That is the precise reason CMB no longer builds MAC engines.

Wow......do you have issues or what???
Andy:

I didn't know that CMB was no longer the manufacturer of MAC's. That is REALLY good news. Who is building them now?

Marty Davis
 
Marty,

We are building them here in the USA.

More details about this later.

Careful Marty! Don't get me started on an over Hyped Sales Pitch! LOL
 
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Kevin,

Go to the Car side of CMDRACING.COM and check out the REAL race results.

The stock MAC runs good and the MOD MAC will run with any Mod anything.

MAC engine sales slowed because CMB built junk crankshafts that wore out in one gallon of fuel

and yes, after the first gallon they got spanked because the crank pin diameter is reduced by .003".

That is the precise reason CMB no longer builds MAC engines.

Wow......do you have issues or what???
Andy:

I didn't know that CMB was no longer the manufacturer of MAC's. That is REALLY good news. Who is building them now?

Marty Davis
Hey marty its spanky andys b-inlaw blow some dust off of those boats like i did lets RACE
 
Thank you Mark, Charles and Jim for the good insights on how to build and where to buy a dyno!

All good information!

There is a motive to this madness....

I am tired of asking about the correct pipe length....The answer always seems to include the word "about".... I want to know exactly what it should be. I have devised a method for figuring it out exactly, and the dyno plays a part in it. I know I am skirting around the exact explanation here, but I'll let you know if it works. There's no reason it shouldn't work.

It all seems to center on figuring out the load the water puts on the boat.

Thanks again!

Jay
 
Thank you Mark, Charles and Jim for the good insights on how to build and where to buy a dyno!

All good information!

There is a motive to this madness....

I am tired of asking about the correct pipe length....The answer always seems to include the word "about".... I want to know exactly what it should be. I have devised a method for figuring it out exactly, and the dyno plays a part in it. I know I am skirting around the exact explanation here, but I'll let you know if it works. There's no reason it shouldn't work.

It all seems to center on figuring out the load the water puts on the boat.

Thanks again!

Jay
Jay,

Are you going to program your dyno for the rough water in the back straight or the calm water in the front straight? How about the high humidity at 8:30 AM or the extra dry air at 3 PM? Or how about your fuel that is 70 degrees at 8:00 AM or 81 degrees at 5 PM. ? How about........??

Just some things to think about.

Andy
 
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