Hydro Junkie
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hugh hargett
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progress. HJ okay I see what you mean now basically you ride pad is from the second to last frame to the transom. That would make it more like the u-25 I showed you in the picture. That will work out well. I wish I could do that but I dont want to tear it all down.Now the next one; thats a different story.My main concern now is wiring. I want it neat and clean. it also need to be accessible.
As I stated earlier the material removed was negligible MARK, barely a few grams . So all those fancy lightning holes with diagonals youre so proud of are virtually useless here. I marvel at boats not lightning holes. In a big scale when you will be actually removing alot of material then it makes more sense. With the power I have here I dont care about weight all I care about is the "cg" and the boat being structurally strong. The holes I cut was so i could pack 12 s into a 30 inch hull if I choose thats whats trick about this build Mark continue watching and youll learn how to balance a boat. Fe boats have a much better power to weight ratio than the real thing. Thats why THEY "LIKELY" are so worried about weight. People here do them (lightning holes) mainly coz that give the look of the real thing during the build But they leave open cavaties to fill up with water like a cereal bowl and they make the frame weaker from front to back. If a hull takes a hit underneath you PRETTY holes lol it will break right there. This boat will be a straight line boat with close to 2500 watts continuous not peak. The turnigy can move a 40 inch mono with 6s2 so im not worried about weight. When I foam fill a hull the hull rigidity goes up ten fold and I NEVER have to worry about losing a boat unless its totally destroyed Didnt you watch titanic? open bulkheads with no flotation are a sure way to SINK. So Ill stay away from your "pretty holes" and keep doing things my way.
As I stated earlier the material removed was negligible MARK, barely a few grams . So all those fancy lightning holes with diagonals youre so proud of are virtually useless here. I marvel at boats not lightning holes. In a big scale when you will be actually removing alot of material then it makes more sense. With the power I have here I dont care about weight all I care about is the "cg" and the boat being structurally strong. The holes I cut was so i could pack 12 s into a 30 inch hull if I choose thats whats trick about this build Mark continue watching and youll learn how to balance a boat. Fe boats have a much better power to weight ratio than the real thing. Thats why THEY "LIKELY" are so worried about weight. People here do them (lightning holes) mainly coz that give the look of the real thing during the build But they leave open cavaties to fill up with water like a cereal bowl and they make the frame weaker from front to back. If a hull takes a hit underneath you PRETTY holes lol it will break right there. This boat will be a straight line boat with close to 2500 watts continuous not peak. The turnigy can move a 40 inch mono with 6s2 so im not worried about weight. When I foam fill a hull the hull rigidity goes up ten fold and I NEVER have to worry about losing a boat unless its totally destroyed Didnt you watch titanic? open bulkheads with no flotation are a sure way to SINK. So Ill stay away from your "pretty holes" and keep doing things my way.
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Hydro Junkie
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hugh hargett
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HJ you overlooked I wasnt directing that toward you. Do as you choose you didnt read clearly BRO! Like I said for me less that 12 grams means nothing to me and with my method theres no cavity for water to go into at all so thats not an issue for me. Re read the above post and make sure your mad at me for a real reason. Dont stop contributing to my build over a lightning hole. Thats "LITEWEIGHT" partner.
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Hydro Junkie
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MarkTanski
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Evidently doesn't understand a concours type scale build! LMAO! The "pretty holes" are there for a reason, the full sized boat had them so the model has to! Oh the ignorance! And yet in another post you called yourself a "scale builder" to quote.
I have no earthly idea where you came up with the idea that the wet sponsons in my build were for some kind of weight reduction!
If you want to include somebody else' work in you post to prove some kind of point you should really have some idea of what you're talking about. As a matter of fact doing that added weight to the boat, not removed it! Man I even laminated mahogany to the visible surfaces inside the sponson!
I repeat I have never claimed that wet sponsons were for some bizarre kind of weight reduction scheme! They are simply a scale detail of the original boat! No more, no less.
I have no earthly idea where you came up with the idea that the wet sponsons in my build were for some kind of weight reduction!
If you want to include somebody else' work in you post to prove some kind of point you should really have some idea of what you're talking about. As a matter of fact doing that added weight to the boat, not removed it! Man I even laminated mahogany to the visible surfaces inside the sponson!
I repeat I have never claimed that wet sponsons were for some bizarre kind of weight reduction scheme! They are simply a scale detail of the original boat! No more, no less.
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hugh hargett
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No im not building this for concours Mark You can cancel the newb approach to me ive been building boats over 20 years. And as i stated people construct them for realism (concours) . The point is you got mad over a suggestion on engine placement and tried to tell me since you couldnt do it I cant do it . Wrong I can do what you can and more plus let other people have their own idea without getting mad. The main reason I called you out Is coz you tried to call out my build.So make sure YOU know where Im going with my builds before you try to talk junk . If you cant extend the same courtesy to me as I had you this almost 2 years Ive been On Iw then what should I do? You tell me.Why didnt you simply take the bet in fun? youre the one that said put my money where my mouth is then when i take you up you clam up for a few days. That conversion was easy and u have alot of nerve if you struggled with one to call me out coz I would have not struggled with that. On an open forum to attack my build was incorrect I never do that.If you want to know why I did something a certain way ask? But dont try to make me look stupid coz you feel a man should get an sv27 and I dont.
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hugh hargett
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Not saying you didnt do it but you should always treat all the wood with thinned out epoxy and alcohol or acetone. I do not glue the foam to the wood. the foam I use has its own adhesive properties once I treat the wood and fill it There is NO where for water to go.The strut area is the only place I expect water to get in . Im using an octura auto bailer there which has worked fine for me . Im waiting for some nichrome wire to make a new foam cutter. Bear with me for a moment and SEE first then if you still don't like it ok. The foam makes the hull rigid. I do understand the SCALE look quite well but Mark and You have to realize Im not building it for scale looks im building it to blow it over ALOT. When I want to get this thing on the water the last thing I care about is a hole for good looks. I have some nitro motors I want you to take too . I want peanuts for them But I guess the guys think they suck,so Im going to give them to you since you run nitro so you can tell me whether or not they are worth anything. A .12,.15,.19.21 all pull starters. Will you check them out or me?The best one you keep for yourself.Every single piece of advice you give me I take into account I dont take them all coz on every build I experiment a a little bit looking for a way to build faster and truer hulls.I listen more when I hear something new but some advice is redundant to a modeler who was doing this when some on here were kids.
HJ The.19 hasnt even been run.
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MarkTanski
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I wouldn't take the bet because you build junk and are a know it all B.S artist. Plain and simple! The more you run off at the face the funnier you get!
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hugh hargett
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Mark youre funny the reason you got mad is coz you were lying to mike so you could sell your crappy sv27. A plastic a@@ boat to a man in exchange for his Jae -_- . I build crap so stop L :blink: :blink: king. I dont think i know it all . I dont take your advice coz "I" dont see it as any good. Youre not honest. I never turn a page to look at anything you build lol those little a@# boats. You mad at me coz I got in the way of you taking advantage of a beginner point blank. Notice just so happens YOU OWN an sv27 wow doesnt take much genius to realize why youd say a jae conversion is hard/undoable; just to sell your boat. I left you there to tell the man lies so go take advantage of him now if thats what you want to do . But HJ already told him not to take some plastic piece of junk. What? you gonna be mad at him too. You got some sucker tactics mark. Id rather be a junk builder than a con artist and a bad gambler. If you thought i built junk you would have taken the bet 
all you had to gain is equipment and 200 dollars. Im done talking to you now go on back and lie to the man so you can sell your problems to that man. I was done the moment you started acting like a child.Advising Mike Burt is YOUR thread go take it I could care less . I just know youre full of it!You talk "concours" and the biggest scale you got is 30 inches BOY bye. It aint about my builds its about selling your boat to Mike Burt so go do that and buzz off.Stay in your lane.When you want to see what a real Jae is supposed to l :blink: :blink: k like WATCH my .91 "JAE" build like you're watching this one. I have no real issue with you other than you trying to slam my builds when you know zero about me.looking at the boats you own, 2 ready made, your scope of modeling is limited in my opinion so unless you have something else to share worthwhile Ill let you continue to ramble on about nothing. There are others that just like to see builds without all the garbage and talking so lets try that. Since we already know where we stand with each other theres nothing left to say. RTR is for beginners the fact that you have them and even post them as boats you own is funny to me. BUILD a boat over 30 inches. SPEND MORE THAN 300 dollars with tower hobbies then come back and talk to me. My batteries cost what your boats do.
Progress! The cowl is getting on my nerves so I have to tack it together and get it out of my way.
HJ I use "REGULAR" expandable foam not triple. I fill the cavities in small increments and mist it water to speed curing when it finally is at the top i let it cure for several days before I shave it . I have to make sure it is cured with the deck off coz the foam will buckle the seams if it expans anymore once the deck is on. Where is the water going to go?
all you had to gain is equipment and 200 dollars. Im done talking to you now go on back and lie to the man so you can sell your problems to that man. I was done the moment you started acting like a child.Advising Mike Burt is YOUR thread go take it I could care less . I just know youre full of it!You talk "concours" and the biggest scale you got is 30 inches BOY bye. It aint about my builds its about selling your boat to Mike Burt so go do that and buzz off.Stay in your lane.When you want to see what a real Jae is supposed to l :blink: :blink: k like WATCH my .91 "JAE" build like you're watching this one. I have no real issue with you other than you trying to slam my builds when you know zero about me.looking at the boats you own, 2 ready made, your scope of modeling is limited in my opinion so unless you have something else to share worthwhile Ill let you continue to ramble on about nothing. There are others that just like to see builds without all the garbage and talking so lets try that. Since we already know where we stand with each other theres nothing left to say. RTR is for beginners the fact that you have them and even post them as boats you own is funny to me. BUILD a boat over 30 inches. SPEND MORE THAN 300 dollars with tower hobbies then come back and talk to me. My batteries cost what your boats do.Progress! The cowl is getting on my nerves so I have to tack it together and get it out of my way.
HJ I use "REGULAR" expandable foam not triple. I fill the cavities in small increments and mist it water to speed curing when it finally is at the top i let it cure for several days before I shave it . I have to make sure it is cured with the deck off coz the foam will buckle the seams if it expans anymore once the deck is on. Where is the water going to go?
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hugh hargett
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HJ looks like my "junk" is taking form. Do you see any junk? foreground or background? I dont, maybe my eyes are lying to me but what I have looks pretty good . At least to me anyway
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hugh hargett
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Naca duct calculator so I can create some "useable" holes. I dont think a u-25 even has a sponson detail like the one before mentioned. If you give me a photo of one (whomever) Ill add it in. But ill be practical and give it the "look" not a real hole. Id make the hole detail then back it with a black piece of laminated wood to give to "Hole" look, But Id never under any circumstances deliberately bring water into an "FE" boat other than for cooling; irreguardless of how much epoxy I slap all over everything! I will however create a naca duct ,in the cowl, to push AIR over my heatsink.
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hugh hargett
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progress: I dropped the cowl a 1/4 inch for a sleeker look . I will decrease the tunnel angle by taking it from the break out to the sponson tips. I dont mind the hull ai-ring out quickly. TO ME that means less amp surge on my motor at the start. I will ATTEMP to hold the nose down with a big canard in the front. If it doesnt work so what. Its an attemp at something "Different". I will TRY to find a point of equilibrium between the tunnel and the canard the will lock the nose to level.
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hugh hargett
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progress:
A WHOPPING 5 pounds loaded with 12s 1p or 6s 2p.
no deflection or busted seams from the foam . The sponson cavities also encase desiccant bags
Power supply able to supply 9.9 hp RMS not PEAK
Balance point in photo 1 inch but I also include the prop as part of the afterplane so I got 18 inches. Either way the cg can be move up to an inch in front of the sponson tips with zero modification from these photos.
Mark S. Ill just send you the nitro motors to check out when I send my props out ! Thanks. We will likely do a 637 but we may drop all the way down to a 632 . I also need my 642 detounged an my 645 balanced and sharpened. Im not familiar with the ABC props so ill let you school me on them and decide if I wanna touch one.
Thanks,
Hugh
Ill be done here for a day or two. On to some drivers for miss prather . My other "Junk"
A WHOPPING 5 pounds loaded with 12s 1p or 6s 2p.no deflection or busted seams from the foam . The sponson cavities also encase desiccant bags
Power supply able to supply 9.9 hp RMS not PEAK
Balance point in photo 1 inch but I also include the prop as part of the afterplane so I got 18 inches. Either way the cg can be move up to an inch in front of the sponson tips with zero modification from these photos.
Mark S. Ill just send you the nitro motors to check out when I send my props out ! Thanks. We will likely do a 637 but we may drop all the way down to a 632
. I also need my 642 detounged an my 645 balanced and sharpened. Im not familiar with the ABC props so ill let you school me on them and decide if I wanna touch one.Thanks,
Hugh
Ill be done here for a day or two. On to some drivers for miss prather . My other "Junk"
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hugh hargett
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" the motors awfully heavy" turnigy 4030 349 grams leopard 4074 375 grams. The leopard was the advised motor and it weighs more than the turnigy. The turnigy has more torque! and higher amperage maximum. Cheap outrunners dont suffer from the rotor magnets wanting to seperate at High Rpm like cheap inrunners do.The only disadvantage I see to outrunners, is an inrunner will accelerate faster and theres no water cooling on this model. It does however have an internal cooling fan machined into the design.
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Hydro Junkie
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hugh hargett
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" why did you.......?"
1. The deck profile is the same whether you have the deck on or off . It makes zero difference! Unless you want your wiring looking like spaghetti then youd leave the deck off almost till the end ,because you need to see whats going on as you plan a layout.Dumas is the one that made a kit where youre supposed to build the cowl attached to the boat then cut it off :blink: . Not my way of doing thing so I dont do it that way.
2. Your buddy with the exploding boat is a moron then coz he didnt let the foam fully cure.Im not using 2 part foam; whomever did that likes to waste money and should have had enough common sense to know that 2 part is more of an industrial grade foam. Its denser(more weight) and you definately have to let it cure fully before putting on the deck. Youd also use it sparingly; what you speak of sounds like a rush job to me, not the foam.
My cabover design
wont lend itself to conventional building methods. You cant know what Im doing coz I dont know yet. Sit back and relax . I got it covered.
1. The deck profile is the same whether you have the deck on or off . It makes zero difference! Unless you want your wiring looking like spaghetti then youd leave the deck off almost till the end ,because you need to see whats going on as you plan a layout.Dumas is the one that made a kit where youre supposed to build the cowl attached to the boat then cut it off :blink: . Not my way of doing thing so I dont do it that way.
2. Your buddy with the exploding boat is a moron then coz he didnt let the foam fully cure.Im not using 2 part foam; whomever did that likes to waste money and should have had enough common sense to know that 2 part is more of an industrial grade foam. Its denser(more weight) and you definately have to let it cure fully before putting on the deck. Youd also use it sparingly; what you speak of sounds like a rush job to me, not the foam.
My cabover design
wont lend itself to conventional building methods. You cant know what Im doing coz I dont know yet. Sit back and relax . I got it covered.
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Geeeze man, no need for the tone...just take a chill pill
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hugh hargett
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Yeah thats cool but hes only asking questions to be an a@@. He sent me a letter saying he wasnt commenting on my build over a HOLE in my sponsons. then comes back asking those sill questions i dont have time for that Kris. I m sorry coz I shouldnt have answered it at all. I just wonder were you were when mark t said I build "trash" over my suggestion that a member convert his .12 :huh: and please catch when your buddy Jae ask people "where you got your degree" or when HJ the one crying to ya is riding "hydrogirl" over having proboats. Kris some people know so much I wonder why they dont go build real boats instead of sit here and stroke themselves over some mods they did. Ill be cool but make sure you regulate ALL of us not just me or new people to the forum. There zero reason why Jay can do it but no one else can. Apologize to You Kris but thats about it. I wont entertain obviously silly questions like : which came first the chicken or the egg". From here on out ill avoid all public questions. If one cant learn simply by watching and being quiet then you wont learn from me. I just want to post pic of my build. I dont need any help or at least the kind that has been offered up to now.
Dont sit and talk junk to beginners about proboats then get mad when you cant say it to me. Ive been building scales for 20 years.I dont need your help HJ thanks. I left you at the point you got mad over a hole.
Kris Please allow me to build in peace and suggest to members that dont care for me not to WATCH so much. I wont comment on theirs most definately. Please pm me if you have any other concerns. Again Im sorry I seemed harsh but people dont tell you everything just the parts that made me look bad. Were men right? Can we act like it.
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hugh hargett
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" The instant power available from an electric drive system means that the weight is really immaterial performance wise, and these two features gives the big FE boats a definate advantage on the race course"
proven formula for real power no physics no math just $$$$$$$$$$
3060/10 $ 710.00 plus vat tax and a schulze 40-160 565.00 plus vat 1300 dollars in esc and motor the another 240 dollars for thunder power batt 5s 2p 900o mah 25c .
There you go $1500 dollars thats a proven way to run fast.
goodness
proven formula for real power no physics no math just $$$$$$$$$$
3060/10 $ 710.00 plus vat tax and a schulze 40-160 565.00 plus vat 1300 dollars in esc and motor the another 240 dollars for thunder power batt 5s 2p 900o mah 25c .
There you go $1500 dollars thats a proven way to run fast.
goodness
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