Dave Frank plans ? Any good ?

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TERRY COWGER

Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2009
Messages
20
I have a set of Dave Frank Oberto plans that are second revision 4-12-93 that I am thinking of using to build a 1/10 scale FE boat . I know there are Newton plans and Mike can laser cut a kit for me but I would rather do it myself

My question is, Has anyone built from these plans and how did the boat run ?

Any comments on changes to make the design run better ?

Or are there other plans that would be better, I am looking for a cab forward w/o a rear wing type boat, scale doesn't matter as I can resize and or redraw to fit my needs.

Thanks for any help or comments

T.C.
 
Those oberto plans are nice as far as I remember. That boat did well when it raced back then. Should make a nice FE.

Hugh
 
its a nice hull very adaptable, back in the day i built one and put a 16 sized nitro motor in it and it was a blast to run. if i were to build it today with the electric motors that are available i would beef it up some
 
This 1/8 scale boat is a Dave Frank design from the late 1980s. It has a little too much lift for modern nitro power, but that's controllable with balance and an air dam. The electric version with 8S 2P (4 5000 mah 4S packs) is quite heavy, so the extra lift helps. It ran well as either a nitro or an electric powered hull. It holds the NAMBA 1/8 Scale,and T hydro two lap records as well as winning both the Scale and T hydro classes at this years NAMBA Electric Nationals. It now has a Neu motor and still has lots of potential. Pictures by me and Tyler Gerrard

Lohring Miller
 
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Thank you all for the input and suggestions.

If I may ask another question, as to the cab placement I notice that on some boats it's in the center and others it's off to one side ?

Anyone know the correct placement for a MHR 8255 hull, or does it go by who owned the boat ?

I've seen some hulls modeled both ways, did the real boats keep the same hull and paint scheme and move the cabs from year to year ?

When modeling a modern scale boat does this matter ?

T.C.
 
IF I remember correctly, the 8255 was offset slightly to the left side of the boat and, if that is the case, the cowl on the R/C versions should be offset slightly as well.

As far as center offset mattering, the answer is yes, if the boat was raced with an offset, the model "should" conform to the full sized boat if you plan on racing in the "scale" class. What you need to be careful of is some boats have a huge offset and others have little to none. This is compounded further by most of the boats after 1987 having the "Jones assymetrical sponsons", this adding an appearance of an even larger offset.
 
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Thank you for the reply,

I figured it mattered scale is scale, not sorta scale.

Anyone have an idea of how much the 8255 boats were offset ? inches, feet ?

T.C.
 
Terry the degree of offset is not a measurement that is enforced as far as NAMBA is concerned. Nor is it in the MHR either. Just to use NAMBA as an example. NAMBA does allow for the offset to be mirrored to the opposite side since we are racing the opposite direction however. I haven't read IMPBA's rules of late but I would imagine they are similar. However RCU if I'm not mistaken does have stipulations regarding the offset. Unless you have the actual dimensions of the real boat it is kind of tough to determine. In my opinion you are correct in your statement that "scale is scale, not sorta scale". If you built in your offset proportional to what you see in pictures of the real boat then you would be golden. Some would argue that it is strictly a concourse issue and I disagree. But I would check with the Scale Chair in your District regardless if it is FE Nitro or Gas and get his opinion on the offset.
 
well only problem is a turbine is not allowed in IMPBA but true turbine scales are way cool. The dave frank boat is IMPBA legal as far as I know.
 
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Thank you all for helping,

I'll just have to fudge the offset but at least it will be on the correct side as 1/10th FE runs counter clockwise.

All I have to do now is decide what boat to build as this hull will build a bunch .

Is their a place other than Newton's to look at pictures of modern boat paint schemes ?

T.C.
 
which hull is it? Will it build the 82 Executone like pictured above? That boat sure does have a soft spot in my heart. LOVE that boat!
 
Terry, I don't know if it's shown on Dave Frank's plans or not but I know Roger Newton included the cowl offset on many of his boats. I have a set of plans for the 77-81 Atlas which shows a cowl offset of between .25 and .5" even though the engine bay is centered in the hull. Whether this is accurate in scale or not, I can't say. Don Mock(presently leading the restoration of the Atlas) or Jim Lucero(designer, builder and crew chief of both of the blue Atlas hulls) may know on the Atlas but, as for the 8255 hull, that could take some research. You could contact David Newton through his Newton Marine web site and ask him about it as well
 
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Here is an excerpt taken from the master hull roster;

The Scale Unlimited Hydroplane Master Hull Roster is the governing document for the NAMBA Scale Unlimited




Hydroplane class of racing. This document contains the name and details that identify each boat so that they may be




built for R/C Scale Unlimited Hydroplane competition at NAMBA sanctioned races. Principle dimensions for each




full size craft are listed if known. Appearing underneath each principle dimension (in parenthesis) is a tolerance for




1/8 scale craft.




Each hull has been identified with a “Hull number” consisting of 4 digits. The first two digits indicate the year in




which the hull first ran, and generally, (not always) the second two digits indicate the “number” with which the hull




first ran with. Detailed National rules for the Scale Unlimited Hydroplane class can be found in the NAMBA rule




book.




Dimensions are measured in the following manner:




A. Length (+/- 1.0 inch)




B. Width (+/- 10 percent)




C. Tunnel Width (+/- 10 percent)




D. Hull Depth (+/- 10 percent)




E. After plane Length (+/- 10 percent)




LENGTH – This is the overall length of the boat as measured from the most forward point of the basic hull




to the rear most point of the basic. (Note: Tiplets and rear sponsons are not part of the basic hull)




Allowable tolerance is +/- 1 inch.




WIDTH – This is the maximum overall width of the boat. Allowable tolerance is +/- 10 percent.




TUNNEL – This is the tunnel width or sponson separation of the boat. Allowable tolerance is +/- 10




percent.




DEPTH – This is the maximum thickness of the hull. Allowable tolerance is +/- 10 percent.




AFTERPLANE LENGTH – This is the distance measured from the rear of the sponson to the rear most




point of the basic hull. Allowable tolerance is +/- 10 percent.




PICKLEFORK DEPTH – For pickle fork hulls only. Pickle fork Depth is not a principle dimension as listed




in the rule book. The dimension is listed here for reference only. This is the distance from the forward most




point of the boat o the leading edge of the boat between the sponsons. Suggested allowable tolerance is




+/- 10 percent.




An “M” listed under the hull number indicates the listed dimensions have been taken by measurement of




the actual boat.




A “P” ” listed under the hull number indicates the listed dimensions have been taken from plans of the




actual boat.




For detailed rules, see the NAMBA rule book and District rules from the area in which you plan to compete.




NOTE: Boats should be measured to the nearest 1/16 ‘ and not exceed the maximum or minimum



tolerances.

Here is the link to the master hull roster which you can download...

http://www.namba.com/content/library/scale/namba_mhr.pdf

As for the offset, I have usually seen it mirrored like the full size but with the 10% tolerance you have some options. This gives boat manufacturers and builders and designers some options in order to optimize the running characteristics of a model vs the full size hulls.

There are some really nice "scale" hulls out there and there are also some really good examples of "race" hulls as well. When you see a "scale" hull that races as fast as anything possible (Kirk Maupins 75 Atlas comes to mind), you know the builder took the time and attention to the details as well as the preparation to consider running qualities which has to be admired and appreciated.

cheers
 
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Thanks for all the information guy's, I have one more question I'm sure you all can answer.

Now that I have the plans altered and am happy with the offset, I was thinking about the drive line and weather it should be offset also ?

Whats the norm and what are the good and bad of offsetting the drive line ?

Any input/comments welcome .

T.C.
 
From experience I can say that rudder placement and driveline placement have made a difference in how my hydros turn. Its like a different pivot point.
 
I normally put the strut in the center of the hull to simplify setting up the boat. That being said, by offsetting the drive to the left can aid turning to the right DEPENDING ON THE AMOUNT OF OFFSET. To much can do more harm than good
 
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