Im converting my 12 cell brushed o/b to brushless o/b using a Hacker 70-0 speed control and a Nemisis 9 xl the issue im running into the location where the speed control sits in relation to the motor the wire's will not reach i woul have to make up 4'' of lead's to reach the motor meaning soldering 3 male connector's at one end and 3 female at the other . Would this be a issue in a brushless system? Regards Andris Golts.
Converting tunnelhull to brushless outboard
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Hi Andris,
I like to glue female 5.5 connectors into the cowling and extend the wires off the motor so they can plug into the plugs which are glued into the cowl. The plugs and wire glued to the cowl are about 30-40mm long which have male plugs on them to connect upto the controller.
Or you can do what Kingston does and run the wires through a Bro-line rubber seal and zip tie up the wires around the rubber to seal it up.
In answer to your question, extending the wires is almost always needed so no more connectors wont hurt.
I like to glue female 5.5 connectors into the cowling and extend the wires off the motor so they can plug into the plugs which are glued into the cowl. The plugs and wire glued to the cowl are about 30-40mm long which have male plugs on them to connect upto the controller.
Or you can do what Kingston does and run the wires through a Bro-line rubber seal and zip tie up the wires around the rubber to seal it up.
In answer to your question, extending the wires is almost always needed so no more connectors wont hurt.
Hi Kris thank you for the information on extending the motor wire's and giving me the answer already for the next ? of how to waterproof the hole where the wire's exit the transom as i have tried sealing them with clear silicone and shoo goo as neither has properly adhered to the silicone insulation on the wire's i still have not forgot about the picture's for you of the Stark tunnel i have them on 35 mm film and gave them to my sister 2 months ago to scan for internet posting. Regards Andris.
David Kingston
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I do mine with the dubro push rod seals like kris said and basically the 3 wires are a very tight fit though one of them. After i get them in there i just use sika flex in the rubber boot then screw it down to the hull. Never had any leaks that way.
A better and more user friendly way would be Kris's way.
If you make up a few extension leads, male on end and female the other. (to desired length)
Drill 3 holes at the exit point where you want the wires to come out of the cowl. We use 5.5mm plugs so therefore 3, 5.5mm holes are drilled at the top of the cowl. A ply or blasa double is inserted in the cowl for extra gluing support. Basically then just use CA and glue the female ends of the plugs into the cowl and the male ends are inside the hull ready for the ESC to be connected to them.
Kris might be able to take a photo for you.
I do it my way only because i de-solder the origional wires on my ESC's to be used in tunnels and then solder on wires to the correct length. Therefore eliminate the need for 6 extra plugs. Only down side is that the ESC cannot be removed quickly cause it is part of the hull when the wires are stuck through the cowl. Ill try look for some photos of how i do it and email you the idea.
David
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I have a Hydra 120 and had to also lengthen the wires about 1in to hook up to my out board. I emailed Castle and they recomended not adding to the length of wire between the ESC and motor. Had something to do with the frequency and the ESC's ability to read the motors rotor position. I epoxied the female connectors into the the motor cover I made so I could atleast disconnect from the motor. I siliconed the wires where they go though the battery-radio box.
David Kingston
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Lengthing the wires probably has some sort of effect on ESC's. Unfoutunatly in most OBT's you need to lengthen the ESC wired to the motor. I have run longer wires with plugs and also newly soldered longer lengths or wire onto the ESC itself, on brushless OBT's since 2000 and have never experienced and sort of dramas.
Its getting harder to keep the wires short on the ESC's in my tunnels now that lipo is in.
With all the weight at the back, the cells need to be up the front a bit more so that it ballances. Problem when the boat was built 4 years ago around NiMh cells.
David
Its getting harder to keep the wires short on the ESC's in my tunnels now that lipo is in.
With all the weight at the back, the cells need to be up the front a bit more so that it ballances. Problem when the boat was built 4 years ago around NiMh cells.
David
Tim_Duggan
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So Dave,
Are you running LiPo in the Villain yet? What size?
Tim.
Are you running LiPo in the Villain yet? What size?
Tim.
David Kingston
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Tim,
Yes i ran lipo in it last sunday
Only done one pack throuh it with a 1700Kva motor (28000) witha 4s pack of poly RC cells 4500mAh 30C, x440 prop. Really screams along considering the low rpm and small prop. I stopped the test cause it was just to rough for it. Boat is much lighter and really flightly in the rough. Previously i could have hammered it in those water conditions with a hotter motor, but then again it use to weigh 500grams more, and thats heaps!!!
I actually just trimmed the motor down a deg this morning to keep the boat on the water more. Just have to wait and get it for another run. The setup is a whole new ball game. Where it was running perfect on NiMh and dam fast i now have a boat that runs slighly slower (due to less powerfull motor) but it is very close to just riding on prop in the straights. Definatly needs adjustments.
Initial thoughs are good with the lipo in it.
How are Greg's e-tunnels going?
David
David Kingston
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In all honestly i think i would be better off running 4s/2p for the weight.
Not to pull more amps but to get back the origional weight. cause you know how hard it is to keep a 28inch tunnel on the water in nitro.
Now that i have a better understanding of the lipo i do think that 2p is a good option cause people can use the boats that they have already and basically add in a new, better battery that should give you mild improvements in speed and cost over the life span of the cells yet not be to out of control. Limits the hulls to a max length, cause you can over power it but try keeping it on the water.
Put it this way, ever seen a 33inch 3.5 (A) mono do 100kmph in oval trim and stay on the water? My electric runs at the speed with lipo not to mention it only weighs 2Kg. And it was with 4s/1p 120amp ESC for 2mins. 4s/2p would add more weight and stick to the water better, resulting in a boat that is still as fast but more stable.
But that is not really a topic for debate here.
Just pointing out that iff you add weight in the right areas of boats (keep CoG same) you dont go any slower, it just takes you that bit longer to get to max speed. Assuming you dont add a a dozen bricks inside the boat. But i have seen several 600mm water bottles in a mono before to add weight to keep it on the water, and that didnt slow it down.
Not to pull more amps but to get back the origional weight. cause you know how hard it is to keep a 28inch tunnel on the water in nitro.
Now that i have a better understanding of the lipo i do think that 2p is a good option cause people can use the boats that they have already and basically add in a new, better battery that should give you mild improvements in speed and cost over the life span of the cells yet not be to out of control. Limits the hulls to a max length, cause you can over power it but try keeping it on the water.
Put it this way, ever seen a 33inch 3.5 (A) mono do 100kmph in oval trim and stay on the water? My electric runs at the speed with lipo not to mention it only weighs 2Kg. And it was with 4s/1p 120amp ESC for 2mins. 4s/2p would add more weight and stick to the water better, resulting in a boat that is still as fast but more stable.
But that is not really a topic for debate here.
Just pointing out that iff you add weight in the right areas of boats (keep CoG same) you dont go any slower, it just takes you that bit longer to get to max speed. Assuming you dont add a a dozen bricks inside the boat. But i have seen several 600mm water bottles in a mono before to add weight to keep it on the water, and that didnt slow it down.
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Tim_Duggan
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Just be careful with more negative trim- might do dumb things in the corners. It might be a safer option to add some ballast when it's rough and keep the trim angle the same. Light tunnels are dreadful in choppy water!
No Idea about Greg's - have not seen them yet. I'm going to convert my WOF30 after a major re-work to cut down on build time. Needs a new cowl anyway
So whats the verdict - should we all be looking at using 4S lipo's in O/B tunnels in Oz - for consistency at different clubs and better chances of getting 5 or more at events? I think if 4S is sufficient we should stick to it.
No Idea about Greg's - have not seen them yet. I'm going to convert my WOF30 after a major re-work to cut down on build time. Needs a new cowl anyway
So whats the verdict - should we all be looking at using 4S lipo's in O/B tunnels in Oz - for consistency at different clubs and better chances of getting 5 or more at events? I think if 4S is sufficient we should stick to it.
David Kingston
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Tim,
Yes i believe for now, 4s would be the way to go with the tunnels.
Ive got mine setup for 12cells and soon 4s. Mainly because 4s is not in the rules (yet). Like to believe that we can at least have 12 - 19 months and get other boats sorted and build up the electrics first before we worry about another re-write. However i cannot see if everyone turns up with a 4s OBT how it could be a problem.
WOF30 would be a good size hull. All my (except tunnel) 12cell/4s boats are 30inch min. The power that the lipo provied will be relative to most OS, K&B powered boats. Mod tunnels like Marks lynx, well thats a different story. With electric an electric and trying to go that speed you wont keep it on the water. Better to go the bigger brother hull.
If you need a cowl get in contact with me.
Im making a few over the next 2 weeks.
David
Yes i believe for now, 4s would be the way to go with the tunnels.
Ive got mine setup for 12cells and soon 4s. Mainly because 4s is not in the rules (yet). Like to believe that we can at least have 12 - 19 months and get other boats sorted and build up the electrics first before we worry about another re-write. However i cannot see if everyone turns up with a 4s OBT how it could be a problem.
WOF30 would be a good size hull. All my (except tunnel) 12cell/4s boats are 30inch min. The power that the lipo provied will be relative to most OS, K&B powered boats. Mod tunnels like Marks lynx, well thats a different story. With electric an electric and trying to go that speed you wont keep it on the water. Better to go the bigger brother hull.
If you need a cowl get in contact with me.
Im making a few over the next 2 weeks.
David
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